Thailand – Best Places to See Nature

Why Should You Do the Thai Nature Itinerary?

Kok River near Thaton Water Tower

Northern Thailand offers many off the beaten path places as well as several national parks. With the improved road system, there are many Thais and tourists venturing up north. It’s still a much quieter and more authentic Thai experience than going to tourist-infested islands. Thailand offers a diverse range of wildlife and birdlife. This was our third visit but the first visit for our son. He was here for the 1101 species of birds. He saw 401 species in 23 days.

Author & Photographer: George Mitchell

George’s Bio

Our recommendations are not influenced by affiliate links – we have none. Our content and advice is derived from our personal experience and knowledge based on spending five months in Thailand as well as travelling for 3 years around the world.

Thai Nature Itinerary

Doi Inthanon Twin Pagoda Viewpoint

All the sights in this post are shown on our custom Thailand Best Places to See Nature Map. Additional sights are shown as well. There are frequently multiple spellings for the same place. It was assumed that Google Maps provides the most accurate and official names.

An excellent measure of which sights, restaurants and hotels are better is the Google Maps Rating (from G0 to G5), which we have appended to all place names in this post and our map. This is based on reviews of locals and tourists. As it’s hard to get a high rating, any score ≥ 4.0 is very good and ≥ 4.4 (out of 5) is excellent.

Place	Days	Hotels: Points of Interest
Chiang Mai	5	The 3 Sis THB 4340 USD 119
Doi Inthanon NP	3	Touch Star Resort THB 1584 USD 43
Doi Chiang Dao NP	2	Malee’s Nature Lovers Bungalows
Doi Ang Khang NP	2	Ang Khang Nature Resort
Doi Lang NP	2	Garden Home Nature Resort, Mae Ai
Kaeng Krachan NP	3	Baan Maka Nature Lodge THB 1400 USD 38
Fly CNX-BKK		Rent second car
Phetchaburi	2	Royal Diamond Hotel Phra Nakhon Khiri Wat Komnaram, Laem Pak Bhia Salt Pans; Boat Hire
Khao Yai NP	3	Juldis J2 Khao Yai Resort
Ayutthaya	1	Baan Tebpitak
Bangkok	8	Feung Nakorn THB 2596 USD 71
Total Nights	32

Birding

White-throated Kingfisher, Laem Phak Bia Project

Everyone goes to Thailand to see elephants but they are almost always in private sanctuaries. What about visiting national parks where there are monkeys, deer, and other mammals. But even more unique are the tropical forests, flowers, and 1101 species of birds.

To plan an itinerary for birding, you need to find and read many Birding Trip Reports (see Custom Maps and Facts to Plan your Itinerary section). Next, use eBird, Cornell University’s bird tracking web site. In particular, use the Explore Thailand feature. Find birding hotspots on the Thailand Hot Spots Map. eBird gives you exact GPS coordinated of the sightings but you have to drill down to that feature. The following table lists the species by region found by Daniele.

Region/Province	Species Seen	Days
Chiang Mai Province	226	5
Kaeng Krachan	included in Phetchaburi	3
Phetchaburi	230	2
Nakhon Ratchasima	97	3
Saraburi	5	1
Ayutthaya	60	2
Krung Thep [Bangkok]	37	3
Samut Prakan [Bangkok]	42	1

As can be seen in the table above, the best regions for birding were Chiang Mai, Kaeng Krachan NP, and Phetchaburi regions with 456 non-unique species seen over 10 days. The sites we visited within each national park (NP) are based on the best places to see the most birds. Another approach is to find the best locations to see your target birds – usually the ones only found in Thailand or SE Asia. Finally the itinerary must allow multiple days per destination and multiple visits to birding hot spots in case the target birds were not seen on the first visit.

Breeding season (June-July) is the best time for birdwatching. The wet season peaks between July and September. We went in the cool season (December-January) and Daniele saw 226 species over 12 days in Chiang Mai province – the first half of the birding trip. He saw 401 species over 23 days – his trip was shorter than ours. All the photos are my own. Clicking hyperlinked species name that is suffixed with (D) will link to Daniele’s photos.

Getting There

We flew from Vancouver via Tokyo to Bangkok on ANA Airways. We ate Japanese food for all our meals, which I think surprised the stewardesses. We ended up talking to them about our experiences travelling in Japan for three months. The Japanese know how to provide great service. When the stewardesses heard that we had a narrow window to transfer from Narita to Haneda Airport for our connecting flight, they provided an airport guide to get us quickly through customs to the last shuttle bus for the night!

Getting Around

Do not be fooled by typical maps that distort (decrease) the size of countries near the equator. Thailand is huge. It is 2.1 times the size of UK, 27% larger than California, 94% of the size of France, and 78% of the size of Alberta, Canada. To explore nature in Thailand you need two things – a rental car and lots of time. The birding part of the trip was 23 days, the length of our son’s vacation. We stayed 32 days.

Chiang Mai

We arrived at 05:30h in Bangkok. We were pleasantly surprised that Bangkok Airways provided a free self-service breakfast in their lounge while we waited for our 08:00 flight to Chiang Mai. We stayed at 3 Sis including breakfast. We had five days on our own before our son met us in Chiang Mai. That part of the trip was already discussed in Chiang Mai – Best Places to See Thai Temples and Culture.

Doi Suthep

Doi Suthep (G4.5) is a national park (NP) just north of Chiang Mai. The Thai word Doi means mountain. On our first trip to Thailand we took a tuktuk from Chiang Mai 17 km 38 mins. to Wat Doi Suthep. It was a quiet road then unlike our third trip. A lot more Thais are middle class and own cars.

Flower Stalls, Wat Doi Suthep

At the base of the stairs was a mass of food stalls, tourist shops and noisy women yelling out to buy flowers. One woman wanted me to be in a picture with her but I took her standing next to fellow backpacker, Christian. The Wat Doi Suthep (G4.7) has gold umbrellas (hti) and bronze bells.

There would be a good view of the flat plains from here except for the haze. The burning season is from March to April and the smoke reaches hazardous levels of particulates (over 150 on the AQI scale).

Orchids

Cattleya orchids, Doi Suthep NP

On December 13th of our third trip, we parked further up the Doi Suthep road to hike a trail. Near one of the park admin buildings, there was a small garden filled with stunning Cattleya orchids, which are often called the queen of orchids for their beauty and popularity. There are 45 orchid species within the Cattleya genus, which originated from Costa Rica and to Argentina.

Ruby-lipped Cattleya orchid, Orchid Farm

This one is called a Ruby-lipped cattleya, one of my favourites. We visited an orchid farm in our Chiang Mai — Food, Flowers, and Festivals post and were astounded by the diverse and spectacular species of orchids. Thailand has been the largest exporter of orchids in the world since 1979.

Epiphytes along a Trail, Doi Suthep NP

Most orchids are epiphytes (grow on trees) but some orchids are also lithophytes (grow on rocks). So you may see them on the hiking trails in season.

If you have a car visit the hill tribe village, Mae Chaem, and go on some of the hiking trails.

Doi Inthanon NP

Touch Star Resort

Thai Meal, Doi Inthanon

After visiting Doi Suthep NP, we drove Highway 108 and turned right on highway 1009 to the attractive Touch Star Resort (G4.0). The next night we ate at nearby Inthanon Delight. Food is important to Thai culture. Why is Jaoan the most popular destination for Thai international vacations? It is because they love the food.

We stayed three nights as our son was here for the birds. You can see the main sights in one day.

Elkhorn fern, Touch Star Resort

There were some interesting plants along a pond on the property. Elkhorn fern (Platycerium, a species of Staghorn fern) is an epiphyte. It is native to tropical and temperate areas of South America, Africa, Australia, New Guinea as well as Southeast Asia.

Blushing bromeliad, Touch Star Resort

Blushing bromeliad (Neoregelia carolinae) is the plant with red tips on the lower left side. It is endemic to Brazil. Do you see a pattern here with plants being cultivated all over the world. Before the flowers bloom, the center of the plant will turn red; hence its name blushing.

Doi Inthanon

The next day we drove ca. 31 km on Highway 1009 then turned left to enter the NP. Doi Inthanon (G4.7) is one of the most popular national parks (NP), probably because it is only 70 km southwest of Chiang Mai. So there were many Thais here. The NP entrance fee is THB 300. You can get here by continually changing songthaews but that is not convenient. Once you get to the NP, you need a vehicle to drive the 11 km road to the summit. So the best options are to rent a car or book a tour.

Doi Inthanon Summit

Thai Students Enjoying Doi Inthanon Summit

Doi Inthanon Summit (G4.6) at the end of the park road is the highest peak 2565 m (8415 ft) asl. It has some of the nicest views of the generally low mountains of Thailand. It is much cooler than the rest of Thailand, especially in the cool season at 06:00h in the morning. The parking was quite full. Many Thai university students came here to watch the sunrise. They were not dressed for this climate and were freezing. Meanwhile, we were wearing our toques, gloves, Patagonias and jackets.

Sunrise View, Doi Inthanon Summit

On Dec. 15th we drove early AM to the summit sunrise viewpoint km 37.5) and hiked the summit trail (km 34.5). Here are a couple of the birds we saw on the Summit Trail.

Chestnut-tailed Minla, Doi Inthanon Summit Trail

Chestnut-tailed Minla (Actinodura strigula) has gorgeous oranges and yellows. It is common to Nepal and SE Asia in mid- to high-elevation wooded areas.

Blue Whistling-Thrush, Doi Inthanon Summit Trail

Blue Whistling-Thrush (Myophonus caeruleus) has dark bluish-purple feathers with tiny silvery spots on head, back, and wings. It is common to Nepal, China and Southeast Asia.

Doi Inthanon Shrine

On our hike we were shocked to see what we thought was a spirit house. It turned out to be a King Inthanon Memorial Shrine. Before he died, King Inthawichayanon (1870-1897) had willed that his ashes be placed at the top of Doi Inthanon. 

Twin Pagodas

Another Great Meal, Doi Inthanon

We drove 5 km south of the summit to the Two Chedis, where we ate a surprisingly good lunch with the Thais at the restaurant – chicken curry and a tasty squid dish. Our son went off to the unsuccessfully hunt for the near-threatened Blossom-headed Parakeet.

Red Cabbage, Doi Inthanon Pagoda Gardens

Pagodas Noppamethanedon and Nopphonphusiri (G4.7), aka the Twin Pagodas, are not part of the NP and cost THB 100 to enter. The Red Cabbage originated in 16th century Europe. The purple colour matches the colour scheme of the pagodas.

The Twin Pagodas were built by the Royal Thai Air Force in 1987 for the King Buumipol’s 60th birthday and 1992 for Queen Sirikit’s 60th birthday.

The 12-sided shape represents the 12 virtues of Queen Maya, mother of the Buddha. The pagoda is decorated with pinkish-purple glass mosaics.

The decoration portrays the role of women in promoting and contributing to the emergence of Buddhism.

Doi Inthanon Twin Pagoda Viewpoint

There is a good viewpoint on the west side.

Japanese-like Gardens, Doi Inthanon

The chedis are surrounded by Japanese-like gardens. It is not hot at this altitude so the flowers are not tropical.

Golden angel’s trumpet, Doi Inthanon

Golden angel’s trumpet is the most exotic flower. This subtropical flower originates and is endemic to Ecuador. This fragrant flower is a very popular ornamental grown all over the world.

Hardy fuchsia, Doi Inthanon Pagoda Gardens

The Hardy fuchsia is less sensitive to cold. It originated in Latin America but is grown all over the world.

Doi Inthanon Waterfalls and Trails

On the 14th we did the trail at checkpoint 2 (at the junction of Highways 1009 and 1192). We stopped for lunch at Mr. Daeng’s Restaurant, which serves good food – Thai chicken soup, chicken curry and fried Nile fish.

Huai Sai Lueang Falls

Huai Sai Lueang Trail, Doi Inthanon NP

On the 14th, we took a “hiking trail” on a side road off Highway 1192. It was more like a walk in a city park with shelters and picnic benches.

Huai Sai Lueang Waterfall, Doi Inthanon NP

We walked 0.6 km to Huai Sai Lueang Waterfall (G4.6). Thais love waterfalls so there will always be people on these short trails.

Siriphum Falls

Mae Pan Trail, Doi Inthanon NP

In the afternoon, we hiked the Mae Pan Trail (km 34.5).

Siriphum Falls, Doi Inthanon NP

we went to Siriphum Falls (G4.4)

Wachirathan Waterfall

Wachirathan Waterfall, Doi Inthanon NP

Wachirathan (G4.7) is an impressive and powerful waterfall. It is also very popular and accessible via the easy Kew Mae Pan trail. The falls come with coffee shops and restaurants.

Microporus xanthopus, Doi Inthanon NP

In the morning of Dec 16th, we did the km 13 trail Mueang Ang Falls and the km 18 bridge. Microporus xanthopus is an inedible wood-decaying tropical bracket fungi. I was drawn to the concentric circles in shades of brown contrasted with the white edge.

Chiang Dao

Malee’s Bungalows

Malee’s Bungalows Entrance, Chiang Dao

In the afternoon of Dec 16th, we drove 3.5 hrs to Chiang Dao. We stayed at the very nice Malee’s Nature Lovers Bungalows (G4.4).

Malee’s Bungalows Garden, Chiang Dao

It comes with a lush garden with many species of orchids and a great restaurant. A plus was that the guests talked with each other in the covered, open air dining area. We got to meet many people from Netherlands to Taos, USA. There were also many birds on the grounds.

Sanae Doi Luang

We also ate at Sanae Doi Luang (G4.1), the Charm of Doi Luang.

The restaurant is a set of pavilions with tables amidst lush vegetation.

We went back the next day to take photos in the daylight.

Our favourite tropical flower, the reddish-orange bougainvillea, is native to eastern South America. It was named by a botanist after a French Navy admiral he accompanied around the world in 1789.

The setting was very charming with lots of flowers, statues, rock gardens, and cozy nooks.

Doi Chiang Dao NP

Overlooking the town is the third tallest mountain in Thailand, Doi Luang Chiang Dao (2225 m). Most tourists visit the best known attraction, Chiang Dao Cave. But we have a son who is mainly interested in birding.

It costs 200 THB to enter Doi Chiang Dao National Park (NP). We drove on December 17th to the Den Ya Kat Campground, Summit and Firebreak Trails. The roads here require high clearance SUV. Some of the hills were very rough. It was a long 23 km to the summit.

Shining bird of paradise, Chiang Dao

There was a restaurant in a beautiful setting, with tables separated by tropical plants. One favourite tropical flower is the Shining bird of paradise. Named after the Papua New Guinea bird, some people call it lobster claws.

Wat Tham Pha Plong

Wat Tham Pha Plong Gardens, Chiang Dao

In the afternoon we went to Wat Tam Pha Plong (G4.7), our highlight of this area. There’s no entrance fee for the temple.  The road ends in the temple’s parking lot. Here we wandered through the immaculate grounds being cleaned up by monks.

Wat Tham Pha Plong Gardens, Chiang Dao

It was too late to do the trail. Instead, we enjoyed this photogenic shrine in its park-like setting.

Monks Climbing to Wat Tham Pha Plong

Early the next morning, we climbed a paved trail to the wat. Although it has 510 stairs, it is not a hard climb. Several monks joined us.

Beach Spider Lily, Wat Tham Pha Plong

There were interesting distractions as we hike through the jungle, such as these Beach Spider Lily flowers.

Monk Climbing to Wat Tham Pha Plong

The path was sprinkled with many bilingual signs displaying Buddhist sayings and philosophy.

Wat Tham Pha Plong View, Chiang Dao

At the edge of the mountain was the dramatic Wat Tham Pha Plong.

Luang Pu Sim Shrine, Wat Tham Pha Plong

The monk Luang Pu Sim was looking for meditation place. He found the ideal spot in a cave below this shrine. He founded this wat and lived the rest of his life here.

Naga Staircase, Wat Tham Pha Plong

The most spectacular feature was the steep stairway guarded by colourful nagas.

Naga is a deity associated with water and brings either rain or drought — there is always a duality. Images of nagas are found along stairs and roofs of temples because they are the protectors of the Buddha and guardians against evil spirits.

Naga disgorged by Makara, Wat Tham Pha Plong

But did you notice that there are actually two creatures? The naga is being disgorged out of a Makara, a mythical creature that resembles a crocodile. 

Why are there nagas and makaras everywhere? The prosperity of the kingdom depended on agriculture, especially rice fields. The naga symbolizes water and the makara symbolizes sun. These propitious animals magically produce the correct proportion of rain and sunshine to ensure a prosperous harvest.

Apsaras with namaste greeting, Wat Tham Pha Plong

This place exudes a calm, peaceful and serene atmosphere. In fact, the wat also serves as a meditation centre. This is a reminder that Thai culture is based on both Hinduism and Buddhism from India. An apsara is a beautiful, youthful and elegant female spirit of clouds and water derived from Hinduism.  The middle apsara folds her hands together in the namaste greeting or Añjali Mudrā, which means I bow to the divine in you.

Doi Ang Khang

Mountain View, Chiang Dao

The entrance to this Agriculture Project provided good mountain views.

Food stall on road to Ang Khang

We stopped at this colourful food stall on the mountain road to Ang Khang. The daughter spoke English very well. She actually works in Chiang Mai and was just visiting her mom.

Mother and Daughter Holding Gac Fruit

Gac (Vietnamese) or phak khao (Thai) is a type of melon that grows throughout Southeast Asia and northeastern Australia. It often made into delicious juice, which we had at this stall.

Gac has an intense reddish-orange skin. Corinne thought I had changed the colour until I showed her a photo from the internet. It is rich in beta-carotene and lycopene. Lycopene in the gac fruit can help prevent and reverse the symptoms of BPH (Benign Prostatic Hyperplasia). 

Ang Khang Nature Resort

The Ang Khang area is located at the border between Thailand and Myanmar. We could not book any hotels on the Agoda web site, so we just took a chance. Unfortunately, the only place that had rooms was the upscale Ang Khang Nature Resort. For that price, the lack of heat overnight was atrocious. We ate a good supper at the resort restaurant. There was a western buffet style breakfast with omelettes made to order.

Ang Khang Royal Agricultural Station

Doi Ang Khang Map © 2011 North Thailand Birding

Ang Khang Agricultural Gardens

On Dec. 19th we visited the Ang Khang Royal Agricultural Station (G4.6), established in 1969.

There is a nice restaurant Garden 80 (G4.7) at the turn-around point of the circular road. We had a flavourful lunch of Shan chicken curry, chicken soup, mixed vegetables, and delicious northern Thai sausage. There were a surprisingly large number of Thai tourists.

One of the big attractions was the rock garden near the restaurant. This is based on Chinese garden design dating back to the Northern Song dynasty (960–1127). It uses jagged and perforated karst limestone that was etched by the ocean or lakes. The more eccentric the rock, the more it was prized. The rocks symbolize immortal beings or mountainous landscapes.

The other big attraction was the Sakura tree orchard (G4.9). Sakura is Japanese for cherry trees. The visitors were in awe of the cherry blossoms.

Fortunately for us, there were pastel pink blossoms in December. Cherries usually bloom in late January to early February. The flowers typically last a week or two. It is quite a photogenic place.

Ang Khang Viewpoints

Ban No Lae Strawberry Farm View, Doi Ang Khang

We drove past these strawberry fields with views of Burma.

Ban No Lae Strawberry Farms, Doi Ang Khang

This is quite a large area called the Ban No Lae Strawberry Farms (G4.3).

Hill Tribe Woman Cooking, Doi Ang Khang

Today you can drive through the hill tribe villages where once you could only trek. But this village looked very poor. What a difference compared to when we did the Hill Tribe Trek so many years ago.

Hill Tribe Grandma and Grandson, Doi Ang Khang

Firebreak Trail

Firebreak Trail, Doi Ang Khang

The trail emerged onto a rocky ridge with one of the better views of the mountains. It is assumed that this was the viewpoint at the end of Firebreak Trail. We also did the km 21 Trail.

Mae Per Valley?, Doi Ang Khang

Sui Thang Viewpoint

On December 20th we drove southwest from the hotel.

Sui Thang Viewpoint Right, Doi Ang Khang

Sui Thang Viewpoint (G4.7) is 1,412 m above sea level.

Sui Thang Viewpoint Left, Doi Ang Khang

The is the view towards the left from the same viewpoint.

Near Sui Thang Viewpoint, Doi Ang Khang

We drove 2.75 hrs to Garden Home Guest House (G4.4) in Mae Ai town. We had a very good, flavourful supper of Pad Thai, green curry chicken, Tom Yum Kung with squid, stir fried veggies, and fruit shakes or beer. The owner Buo Loy and her husband cooked the supper. She showed Corinne the basil plants behind the kitchen and the ingredients that she uses for Thai cuisine.

Doi Lang

San Ju Viewpoint, Doi Lang NP

On Dec 21st, we drove to Doi Lang NP along the Burmese border. We had to ask permission at the km 19 checkpoint. The border guards here look for smugglers and drugs.

The target species were Himalayan cutis, Red-tailed laughing thrush, Long-tailed Sinai, Crimson-breasted woodpecker, Whiskered Yuhina and Black-throated Bushtit, and Ultramarine Flycatcher (D).

San Ju Viewpoint, Doi Lang NP

The San Ju Viewpoint gave views of the Burmese mountains. The Burmese border is right next to the road! You were not allowed to drive all the way around, so we turned back.

After we finished, the English speaking guard invited us for tea and a chat.

Rice Paddies, Doi Lang NP

We drove to the km 26.4 rice paddies and the km 31 evergreen forest.

Kok River near Thaton Water Tower

On December 22nd, we drove to this river with a beautiful sunset view. It may have been the Kok River near Thaton Water Tower, since we reported several birds on eBird at 14:27.

On December 23rd, we drove 3 hrs. from Doi Lang to Chiang Mai for our 1:15 hour flight to Bangkok, where we picked up our second rental car.

Kaeng Krachan NP

We drove 3 hrs. to Baanmaka Chalet. This was one of our best hotels and the food was delicious. Corinne watched the chef prepare supper and learned more about Thai cuisine. Our first supper included Tom Yum Kung, Green curry chicken, Spicy and sweet been salad, Chicken in Basel, and rice. Don’t worry that you are no longer in the food capital of Chiang Mai. We had some great meals on this trip.

On the December 24th we explored Kaeng Krachan NP (G4.5). We drove to km 9 to the Ban Krang campsite and the trail to the Youth Camp. We went to the Ban Song Nok hide then on to Lung Sin waterhole hide (restricted access).

On December 26th, we drove to the Phanoen Thung campsite at km 27.5. We had lunch at a restaurant then went to the Orchid Trail km 34-36.

Ochraceous Bulbul, Kaeng Krachan NP

We visited the stream crossings 1-3 (see Best Places to See Nature Map) multiple times. Some of the birds we saw were Ochraceous Bulbul, Ferruginous Partridge (D), the near threatened Black-bellied Malkoha (D), Asian Emerald Cuckoo (D), and Little Cuckoo-Dove (D).

Further west on the same road, we found a Kalij Pheasant. We saw monkeys grooming. Other people saw an elephant and a leopard — they were in their car.

Night-scented Lily, Kaeng Krachan NP

Night-scented lily (Alocasia) has large leaves that resemble an elephant’s ear. It has fragrant blossoms in the spring. It is native to tropical Asia but is common elsewhere.

For supper we had spicy salad with pakkood fern in oyster sauce, Tom Yum Goong, Banana flower spicy salad, and Red chicken curry.

Ban Song Nok Hide

Baan Song Nok, literally means “home to spot birds. Baan Song Nok is the private home of Khun Ba Aek (Auntie Aek), a retired art teacher from Trang.  Take the right-hand fork about one kilometre before the NP entrance gate and drive about 4 km until you see the sign for Ban Song Nok on the left.

Lung Sin’s Hide

Lung Sin’s Hide is located at GPS coordinates 12.859469, 99.560245 and pinned to the Best Places to See Nature Map. It has restricted access and we had booked the afternoon. This was one of the best places to visit on our trip.

White-rumped Shama, Kaeng Krachan NP

White-rumped shama is a thrush-like bird with a long, graduated tail. Males are glossy black above with rich chestnut below. They are widely poached for the cagebird trade in much of its native range – India, Nepal and SE Asia.

Racket-tailed Treepie, Kaeng Krachan NP

Racket-tailed treepie is a corvid with a long, broad-tipped tail and brilliant blue eyes. Plumage shines glossy blue-green in good lighting. A small black mask encloses the eye and bill base.

Black-crested Bulbul, Kaeng Krachan NP

Black-crested bulbul is a greenish-yellow bulbul with a dark head and crest. Common to SE Asia, it is often spotted in small groups.

White-throated Laughingthrush, Kaeng Krachan NP

Greater Necklaced Laughingthrush has a contrast of warm brown, dark black necklace, and bright white throat. I love the striated pattern on the cheeks. It is common in Himalayas and from Yunnan to Chengdu, China.

Grey-bellied Squirrel, Kaeng Krachan NP

Grey-bellied squirrel is a species of rodent found in Thailand, peninsular Malaysia, southern Myanmar, and southern China (Yunnan).

Indochinese Blue Flycatcher, Kaeng Krachan NP

Indochinese Blue Flycatcher (Cyornis sumatrensis) is beautiful blue above, with bright orange throat and underparts. It is common in SE Asia.

Red Junglefowl, Kaeng Krachan NP

Red Junglefowl (Gallus gallus) is the “original chicken”. It is smaller than its domestic descendants. It is native to India, Nepal and SE Asia, but can also be found as an introduced species around the world.

There were many other birds we saw such as Slaty-legged Crake, Streak-eared Bulbul (D), Puff-throated Babbler (D), Scaly-breasted Partridge (D)

Great Hornbills, Kaeng Krachan NP

Great hornbill (Buceros bicornis) is a huge, distinctive hornbill with a large yellow bill and casque. Black face, wings, and breast contrast with white neck, belly, and tail. This species inhabits dense evergreen forests. This vulnerable (IUCN category) species is found in southeast India, Nepal, and SE Asia. This photo was taken at an area past the stream crossings 1-3.

Phetchaburi

We drove 2.5 hrs. northeast to Royal Diamond Hotel (G3.9), a modern hotel in Phetchaburi on the highway to Bangkok. At the hotel restaurant, we ate red curry chicken, fried noodles with shrimp, mixed seafood, and grilled pork in spicy herb sauce. We arrive late so we took some time to visit Wat Mahathat Worawihan (G4.6) infested with monkeys.

In the Phetchaburi region, Daniele saw 230 species in 3 days. For birders, the main draw is the Pak Thale area. Further south lies the beach resort of Hat Chao Samran.

Shrine, Laem Phak Bia

In the morning of December 27th, we drove along the salt pans and saw this shrine or temple along the river. It was quite elaborate for this small township. We are not sure what is its’ purpose or name. It just adds an exotic atmosphere.

Spirit Houses, Laem Phak Bia, Thailand

We discovered these Spirit Houses – they were probably to appease the spirits for building the next door shrine.

Laem Phak Bia Sandspit

Harbour, Laem Phak Bia

It was still morning when we found the Mr. Daeng Bird Watching place. We hired him for an boat trip to the Laem Phak Bia Sandspit (G4.6) but the trip was not until late afternoon due to the tides.

Mr. Daeng and Daughter Lunch, Laem Phak Bia

Rather than return later, the family offered to make us lunch in their little dining area. Mr. Daeng. The daughter was in 4th year at a Bangkok university and spoke English.

Mudskipper, Laem Phak Bia

While we waited, we saw this Periophthalmini. Mudskippers are a species of amphibious fish. Their side pectoral fins are are jointed and located at the forward part of their elongated body. These fins function like limbs to enable the mudskipper to crawl.

Mr. Daeng Boat Trip, Laem Phak Bia

The purpose of the Mr. Daeng boat trip was to spot wading birds on the Laem Phak Bia Sandspit.

We saw birds such as Pallas’s Gull (D), Malaysian Plover (D), Tibetan Sand-Plover (D), Great Crested Tern (D), Little Ringed Plover, Terek Sandpiper, Pacific Reef-Heron, and Chinese Pond-Heron.

Harbour, Laem Phak Bia

This was a great view of the Harbour as we headed back.

Laem Phak Bia Project

Flowers and Trees, Laem Phak Bia Project

The Laem Phak Bia Environmental Research & Development Project (G4.6) is like a beautiful park. It is definitely worth visiting to enjoy nature and especially birds. We came multiple times between December 27th and 29th.

White-throated Kingfisher, Laem Phak Bia Project

One of my favourite birds was the White-throated Kingfisher. The electric-blue back and wings, dark red bill, and snow-white throat patch contrasts with the rest of this brown kingfisher. It is often see near water, frequently perched on posts or trees. It is common to Asia and the Middle East.

Collared Kingfisher, Laem Phak Bia Project

Another favourite bird was the Collared Kingfisher. The unusual greenish-blue crown and rump, plus white collar and breast are spectacular.

Red-wattled Lapwing, Laem Phak Bia Project

Red-wattled lapwing has a distinctive red bill contrasting with the black body.

Some of the other birds we saw in this area include Ruddy-breasted Crake, Pink-necked Green-Pigeon (D), Great Myna (D), and the Siamese Pied Starling (D).

We went to the restaurant Rabieng Rimnam (G4.5) in Phetchaburi a couple of times. We ate spicy winged bean salad, spicy banana blossom salad, stuffed chicken in pandanus leaf, Pad Thai, rice, and banana and pineapple shakes.

Wat Samut Kodom

Main Viharn of Wat Samut Kodom

Even though we are not in a capital or major centre, there are still magnificent temples to be seen. All we know is that its’ name is Wat Samut Kodom (G4.3). It is right next to the Laem Phak Bia Project. The other thing we noticed is that this viharn design has been used by several wats in Thailand.

Wat near Phetchaburi

Monastery near Laem Phak Bia

We do not know the name of this wat near Laem Phak Bia.

Market inside Monastery near Laem Phak Bia

But inside there was a market in the late afternoon.

The Spice Seller

Laem Phak Bia Salt Pans

The Pak Thale Shorebird Conservation Area coexists with areas of salt evaporation ponds.  The land is privately owned, but it is a popular location where bird-watchers can see shorebirds. Many birders including our son come here looking for the critically endangered Spoon-billed Sandpiper.

Salt Roller, Laem Phak Bia Salt Pans

Is this a Salt Zamboni? A man was “paving” the salt with this roller machine.

To make the salt, the prepared fields are flooded with sea water pumped in from the near-by Gulf of Thailand, dammed, and left to dry naturally in the sun. When the water has evaporated, the salt is piled and taken away to be cleaned and bagged for sale.  It takes one month to produce the salt – very labour intensive.

We saw the Ornate Sunbird (D), Spotted Redshank (D), Temminck’s Stint (D), and the Spoon-billed Sandpiper.

Painted stork, Laem Phak Bia Salt Pans

Painted stork has a long bill that curves down at the tip, like that of an Ibis. There is a contrast of white and black on the wings, bright pink on tertials, and bright orange on the face. They are often seen near wetlands, marshes, and flooded agricultural fields.

Some of the other birds we saw in the salt pans were Asian Koel, Asian Palm Swift, Tibetan Sand-Plover, and Black-winged Stilt, Kentish Plover.

Mai Phayung Kitchen

Chef at Mai Phayung Kitchen

Mai Phayung Kitchen (G4.3) is owned by three sisters. Here, one of the sisters is using a pestle and mortar to make our Som Tum (spicy papaya) salad accompanied with the unique  sticky rice (khao niao).

Our meal at Mai Phayung Kitchen

We also had these skewers of chicken and pork. We met the third sister Oui (nickname), Dararat Thong-pet (real name), after we finished our meal. She was the only one who spoke English.

Leaving Phetchaburi on the December 29th, we went to the radio mast, the fish ponds, the irrigation canal, and Nong Pla Raptor watch point. After lunch we drove 6.5 hrs to Juldis Khao Yai Resort for 3 nights.

Khao Yai NP

In the Nakhon Ratchasima province, Daniele saw 97 species over 2 days. Khao Yai (G4.5) is the oldest national park (NP) and preserved tropical forest. However it not totally intact due to all the roads and people. It was by far the busiest NP.

There were an incredible amount of resorts and restaurants on the road head into Khao Yao NP. Restaurant Lakhing was owned by Jib, who explained the difference between krachai and galangal, two major ingredients in Thai cuisine. We ate Tom Yum Goong, Morning Glory with crispy pork, and seafood with herbs.

Wildlife

Southern Red Muntjac, Khao Yai NP

The Southern Red Muntjac is a deer species native to Southeast Asia.  Khao Yai NP is a great place to see 112 species of mammals like elephants and leopards, and 392 species of birds like hornbills and pheasants.

Macaque, Khao Yai NP

Macaques (monkeys) roam the forests and hang from the trees along the road.

Macaque and his “Dear Friends”, Khao Yai NP

Human Wildlife

Many Thai Visitors, Khao Yai NP

Finally, there is the human wildlife. The down side of the park is that it very popular with the locals and Bangkok is very close by.

Overdressed Thai Baby, Khao Yai NP

We admired this cute but overdressed Thai baby. It was not that cold.

Vegetation

Jungle Vine, Khao Yai NP

The Jungle Vine African dream herb is used as a topical ointment against jaundice, toothache, and ulcers.

Baing tree, Khao Yai NP

This is a Baing, the same tree that grows on top of the famous Angkor Wat temples.

Trail to Nong Phak Chi Watching Tower

Trail B, Khao Yai NP

On December 30th, we had beautiful lighting as we hiked Trail B.

Pond on Trail B, Khao Yai NP

Watchtower on Trail B, Khao Yai NP

At end of Trail B, we reached the Nong Phak Chi Watching Tower. Unfortunately, we saw no wildlife.

Birdlife

We went to Mo Singto reservoir, Pa Giray Mai campsite, the Old Golf Course, Khao Khieo Road, the TAT Pond, and HQ/Bonsong Lekgul Camp.

On the km 33 trail 3, we saw the Siamese Fireback twice (Dec 30 and 31). On Kong Kaew Trail (Jan 1) we saw the Scaly-breasted Partridge. and the Red-wattled lapwing.

Abbott’s Babblers, Pha Kluai Mai area

In Pha Kluai Mai area, we saw a couple of Abbott’s Babblers. This sandy-brown bird has faint orange-tan tones on the sides and grey eye rings.

Old World babblers are tropical birds common to Southeast Asia and the Indian subcontinent.

Hainan Blue Flycatcher, Pha Kluai Mai area

We saw the Hainan Blue Flycatcher, which is common to SE Asia and China (Hainan is an island in China). The male is dazzling sapphire-blue with a grey-white belly.

Haew Su Wat Waterfall

Haew Su Wat Waterfall, Khao Yai NP

The next morning we drove to Haew Su Wat Waterfall (G4.6), just north of Khao Yai NP on the road past Lam Ta Khong Campground.

Crocodile near Haew Su Wat Waterfall, Khao Yai NP

We spotted this crocodile just 17 minutes from Haew Su Wat Waterfall.

Ayutthaya

After checking out Trail A, we drove 2 hrs to Ayutthaya via Highways 2090, 2, 1, and 309. In Ayutthaya province, Daniele saw 60 species over 2 days.

Baan Tebpitak Hotel

Elephant Lamp, Baan Tebpitak

We stayed at the very nice Baan Tebpitak (G4.7) on 15/15 Pathan Road Soi 3.

Unfortunately, we did not see any wild elephants in Khao Yai NP. But we did spot this elephant lamp in our hotel room.

Hosts, Baan Tebpitak

The owners are Lino (whose parents were from Ticino and Zurich, Switzerland) and Rita (whose grandparents were from Thailand and Hainan, China).

Wat Na Phra Meru Rachikaram

Entrance, Wat Na Phra Meru Rachikaram, Ayutthaya

Wat Na Phra Meru Rachikaram (G4.7), aka Wat Na Phramen, was constructed around 1503. It may have been a cremation site for nobility or the royal family during the Ayutthaya period. This was the only temple not destroyed by the Burmese as it was outside of the old city.

Pediment, Wat Na Phra Meru Rachikaram

The pediment shows Vishnu riding on Garuda. In the lower part is Rahu, the demon who causes eclipses. Vishnu is considered the symbol of the King.

Greenstone Buddha, Wat Na Phra Meru Rachikaram

The small Viharn Noi or Wihan Khian (the Hall of Paintings) was constructed in 1838. The Buddha image Phra Khantharat or Khanthararaj was carved in green stone in the Gupta style (4th to 6th century). Note the sensuous modeling of the face and body, the subtle expression, and the harmonious proportions. 

Both hands of the image rest on the knees, which is different from the postures known in Thailand, where only the right hand points down to call on the Earth goddess to acknowledge Buddha’s good deeds and defend him from the demon Meru.

Elephant Riding, Wat Na Phra Meru Rachikaram

We were surprised to see tourists riding an elephant.

Carved Walls, Wat Na Phra Meru Rachikaram

The walls around the viharn were elaborately carved.

Ramayana Frieze, Wat Na Phra Meru Rachikaram

The wall frieze appears to be depicting scenes from the Ramayana.

Making Merit

Gold Leaf Speckled Buddha Head, Wat Na Phra Meru Rachikaram,

This Buddha head, is speckled with gold leaf, which is one form of merit making. One way for lay people to make merit is to buy flowers or thin wafers of gold leaf and applying them to statues of the Buddha. 

Making Merit, Wat Na Phra Meru Rachikaram

Here, Thais are making merit by placing flowers on Buddha image – purple Dendrobium Noble orchids and yellow marigolds. Marigolds have been part of Indian culture for centuries. These bright flowers are associated with Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth and prosperity. Lakshmi is the consort of Vishnu.

Offerings, Wat Na Phra Meru Rachikaram

Other people light incense. Indian ceremonies and culture were adopted during the Indianization of SE Asia period.

Young Girl carrying Incense, Wat Na Phra Meru Rachikaram

This cute young girl was offering incense.

We ate at Ban Som Tom restaurant.

Bangkok

We stayed at Feung Nakorn hotel in the old city. Our time in Bangkok was described in five posts starting with the portal post Thailand – Why do People Hate Bangkok?

Other Posts You May Like

The following posts provide sightseeing information in nearby places:

Chiang Mai – Best Places to See Thai Temples and Culture

Chiang Mai – Food, Flowers and Festivals

Thailand – Hill Tribe Trek

Custom Maps and Facts to Plan your Itinerary

TH is the ISO Country Code for Thailand;
THB is the ISO Currency Code for Thai Bahts.
THB 100 = CAD 3.84, EUR 2.62, GBP 2.27, USD 2.81

TH Best Places to See Nature Map

B2A Thailand Birding Trip Report, Birding 2 Asia, 2019 382 species

Doi Ang Khang Birding, North Thailand Birding 2011

Laem Pak Bia & Pak Thale, Nick Upton, Thai Birding 2022

North Thailand Doi Ang Khang, Dominic Le Croissette 2006

Thaton Birding, North Thailand Birding 2011

Top 25 Sought After Birds, North Thailand Birding 2011

When is the Best Time to Visit?

Based on average maximum temperatures from NOAA:

Month	Season	Max Temp	Rain Days
Nov-Feb	Cool	30 to 33°C	Nov = 4
Mar-May	Hot	34 to 35°C	5 to 13
Jun-Oct	Rainy	31 to 33°C	9 to 17

The data supports the fact that Nov-Feb is the best season to visit. The reality is that it is always hot – this is a tropical country. The only time to avoid the north is the burning season from March to April when the air particulates reach dangerous levels.

Is Thailand Safe?

According to the Numbeo Safety Index, Thailand is a very safe country.

Thailand – Why do People Hate Bangkok?

Author & Photographer: George Mitchell

George’s Bio

Our recommendations are not influenced by affiliate links – we have none. Our content and advice is derived from our personal experience and knowledge based on spending five months in Thailand as well as travelling three-years Round-The-World.

Why should you see Bangkok?

Wat Phra Kaew Panorama, Bangkok

Why do some tourists hate Bangkok? This post investigates whether this is justified and what you can do about it. We feel that Bangkok is one of the best cities in Thailand to explore Thai art and architecture, culture and cuisine. We will highlight the best places to visit and why.

Why do some people say to skip Bangkok?

Many people on Facebook and Quora tell first time travellers to Thailand to skip Bangkok. Why? One person (Aussie?) wrote “Bangkok is like marmite: you either love it or hate it!” Another person wrote “don’t spend any time in Bangkok, the rest of Thailand is SO much better”.

Bangkok Traffic, Ploen Chit Road

Some people complain about the pollution. Some worry about safety. Others bitch about the noise and traffic. But are these valid reasons to reject Bangkok?

Los Angeles LAX and New York NYC are very polluted, busy, hot AND crime infested. Droves of people still go there and want to go there. Would you tell tourists to skip LAX and NYC? Let’s look at the facts to see if these complaints are valid.

Air Quality

As we can see in the table below, March is a high pollution month for both Chiang Mai and Bangkok. This is the burning season when fields are burned in preparation for planting just before the rainy season.

However, the overall average annual Air Quality (AirQ columns in the table below) is quite low and just a bit higher than Los Angeles. If you want excellent air quality then Vancouver and Ottawa, Canada are the best cities in the world.

Solution: avoid March-April

Traffic

The traffic complaints about Bangkok are valid. It takes an awful long time to travel by tuktuk or taxi. But Bangkok ranks better than Los Angeles and New Delhi.

Solution:

• Stay in the old city, Rattanakosin. You can walk to all the major sights.
• Use the LRTs (called BTS Skytrain and MRT) and river ferries to get around. You can even get a train from the airport to downtown.

Safety

In terms of safety, Bangkok is safer than Los Angeles and New York, Dublin and London. Chiang Mai is even safer!

Air, Traffic, and Crime Metrics for 10 Cities

City	AirQ 2022	AirQ 2023-03	Traffic Index	Crime Index
New Delhi, IN	89	134	286	59
Hanoi, VN	40	185	104	36
Chiang Mai, TH	18	137	NA	24
Bangkok, TH	18	71	213	40
Los Angeles, US	11	24	321	53
New York, US	10	22	168	50
London, GB	10	19	55	162
Vancouver, CA	8	6	160	42
Dublin, IE	7	89	162	53
Ottawa, CA	7	7	170	31

Air, Traffic, and Crime Metrics by City

The sources and explanations of these metrics are given in the Index Data Sources section below.

ISO Country Codes

CA = Canada; GB = Great Britain; IE = Ireland; IN = India;
TH = Thailand; US = United States; VN = Vietnam

Other things that people complain about are:

Too Overbuilt

Tourists complain about lots of high buildings and few green spaces. Is this true? Yes. But is Bangkok that different from New York if you take away Central Park?

Solution: Visit Lumphini Park, a short distance south of Erawan Shrine. You can also visit the Dusit (palace) area, which is a park-like area littered with the palaces. On the way to the weekend market, visit Chatuchak and Queen Sirikit Parks. Go to the a wat, which means enclosure not temple. Behind the walled temple complex is an oasis of quiet that sometimes comes with orchids, large shaped trees, and pleasing statues.

Too Overcrowded

Yes, you really feel the 11.2 million residents in the commercial area but most of them do not go to the old city, Rattanakosin. Does population size stop tourists from going to 10 million strong London or 37 million strong Tokyo?

Too Hot

Welcome to the tropics.

Solution: If you don’t like the heat come in the “cool” season Nov. to Feb. when it is 30 to 33°C. Avoid the hot season March to May when it is 34 to 35°C.

Too Hard to Choose Where to Stay

Actually, it is fairly simple. If you want high end hotels and shopping then stay in the Sukhumvit area for nightlife or the Siam area for shopping malls.  Use the BTS and MRT trains to get around.

If you want to immerse yourself in historic Bangkok, architecture, culture and cuisine – then stay in the old city, Rattanakosin. Choose the Khao San Road area for nightlife and night markets. Choose the Feung Nakorn Road area for quiet streets. The main sights are walkable from both areas – tuktuks and taxis are not needed.

Templed Out

In my opinion, there is another reason why people say they do not like Bangkok. They are not really interested in wats and culture. We feel this is because they have not read enough about and do not understand what they are seeing. The end result is that many people are overwhelmed by Thai culture and get “Templed Out”.

Unlike Italy, there are very few tourist guide books for cities and museums in Thailand. Lonely Planet does not provide the level of detail needed to understand what and why you are seeing these sights.

Solution: read more about Thai Buddhist culture and about each of the places you are visiting. The posts on this web site attempt to provide you with enough information to make each place more relevant and interesting.

Why should you visit Bangkok?

Bangkok is a noisy, frenetic, traffic-clogged city. It is easy forget that there are some truly spectacular sights and wonderful wats from a solid gold Buddha in Wat Traimit to a not real Emerald Buddha in Wat Phra Kaew. The old city, Rattanakosin, is walkable if you get a hotel in this area — either in the Khao San Road area to the north or the quieter Feung Nakorn area to the east.

We have spent 5 months (over 3 trips) in Thailand. We have written detailed descriptions about our experiences, the places we would recommend in Bangkok, and why they are significant. They are arranged in Day 1 to Day 4 itineraries and come with an associated custom Google map.

Day 1 – Wat Phra Kaew & Grand Palace

Glass And Gold Columns, Wat Phra Keow, Bangkok

Going to Bangkok and missing Wat Phra Kaew is like going to Rome and missing the Pantheon. Why must you visit here? This wat was modelled over the destroyed main wat in the former capital, Ayutthaya – the Rome of Southeast Asia. In other words, the old capital of Ayutthaya would have been filled with temples like this one!

Bangkok — Do not Miss Wat Phra Kaew

Day 2 – Wat Pho, Wat Arun, & National Museum

Thotsakan, Demon King, Guarding East Gate, Wat Arun

These wats will show you what Ayutthaya used to look like before it was sacked by the Burmese. They are ornate and unbelievable.

What is the purpose of the pointed chedis in Wat Pho? Why are you visiting the Reclining Buddha statue, besides that it is famous?

Why are there demons guarding the entrance to Wat Arun? Why is Buddhist Wat Arun a temple for the Hindu god Aruna, who brings the sun each day (dawn)? The wat is also called the Temple of the Dawn.  How is this interrelated to ancient western beliefs?

Why is it worth visiting the National Museum?

Bangkok — Are Wat Pho, Wat Arun and the National Museum Worth Visiting?

Day 3 – Less Visited Gems

Phra Phrom Statue, Erawan Shrine

Since there are more Thais than tourists, there is no place that is really a hidden gem, just less visited. So there will be Thai people but you are here to see everyday Thai life.

Why is Wat Suthat decorated with Chinese statues?  Why was the massive Golden Buddha in Wat Traimit only discovered in 1955? Why is the Erawan Shrine dedicated to the Hindu deities Brahma and Erawan?

Why does every building have a spirit house? Why does Thai Buddhism incorporate Hindu deities and animistic beliefs? Find out at:

Bangkok – Less Visited Gems Walk 3

Days 4 & 5 – Become A Local

Lanna Houses, Jim Thompson House

This itinerary includes many other less visited places, antique homes and lush gardens that are now museums, art collections, silk production, and shopping.

We also visit Erawan Shrine again because you can never get enough of seeing Thais pray for good luck or watching Thai women dancing in beautiful traditional costumes.

As an extra activity that would require a fifth day, you can visit one of the floating markets. However they are usually on Saturday and Sunday mornings only. One of them is located within Bangkok, accessible by local transportation.

Bangkok – Become a Local Walk 4

What if I have very limited time in Bangkok?

You could combine the Day 1 and Day 2 itineraries by leaving out most of the places. The keys things to see are Wat Phra Kaew, Wat Pho and Wat Arun. You would have to minimize your time in the Grand Palace to the few buildings we found most photogenic (the ones in the post Bangkok — Do not Miss Wat Phra Kaew). The Day 3 itinerary would stay the same.

Where else should I visit in 7 to 14 days?

Time Travel

While some posters complain about hectic Bangkok, others suggest visiting 6 places in 9 days. Really!

Say you only have 9 days. Each change to a new destination requires a travel day with check-out time, taxi/bus time, check-in at the departure airport, and transfers from the arrival airport to a hotel. So if you go to 3 places, you lose 3 days! That leaves you with 6 days or 2 days per place! That is not relaxing and not enough time.

Best Places

There is no single set of places in Thailand that everyone must visit. You have to decide what are your interests. Basically you have to choose if you want beaches, relaxation, nightlife, parties – or do you want to explore the real Thailand. You could also do a bit of both. All options are valid.

If you want to explore art and architecture, culture and cuisine of real Thailand then we highly recommend Bangkok and Chiang Mai. And you can still enjoy the nightlife. Please note that in the ideal world:

• Bangkok needs at least 4 full days;
• Chiang Mai needs at least 3 full days; and
• Ayutthaya needs at least 1 full day.

Also note that 4 full sightseeing days mean 5 nights.

Food

Some hotels and restaurants may provide western-oriented food or non-authentic Thai dishes. As the expression goes “when in Rome do as the Romans do”. The Thais eat primarily at food stalls and night markets. Make sure you go beyond Pad Thai and Satay. For food recommendations, read the following Chiang Mai post which describes some of our favourite Thai dishes and their ingredients that we cook from scratch at home.

Chiang Mai – Food, Flowers and Festivals

Understanding Thai Buddhist Culture

Read the following article to learn about and understand Thai Buddhist culture that permeates all of Thailand.

Thailand — a Traveller’s Guide to Buddhism

Custom Maps and Facts to Plan your Itinerary

TH is the ISO Country Code for Thailand.
THB is the ISO Currency Code for Thai Bahts.
THB 100 = CAD 3.76, EUR 2.59, GBP 2.18, USD 2.78

Bangkok Google map

When is the Best Time to Visit?

Based on average maximum temperatures from NOAA:

Month	Season	Max Temp	Rain Days
Nov-Feb	Cool	30 to 33°C	Nov = 4
Mar-May	Hot	34 to 35°C	5 to 13
Jun-Oct	Rainy	31 to 33°C	9 to 17

The data supports the fact that Nov-Feb is the best season to visit. November and April strike the best balance between less tourists and best weather. The east coast is best to visit January to March and July to September.

The high season is November to March when the weather is “cool” and dry. Prices will be higher and tourists will be numerous.

The shoulder season is April to June and October. The weather varies and is generally pleasant but hotter. It is more pleasant to be along the coast than inland.

The low season is from July to September. It coincides with short afternoon showers or monsoons. This is not like monsoons in South Asia. It usually rains for a part of the day. The east coast (Koh Samui) experiences heavy rainfall from October to December.

Index Data Sources

Air Quality Index, Wikipedia

derived from Canada, Malaysia, Singapore…

Crime Index by City 2024, Numbeo

Crime Index is derived from surveys conducted by visitors to the Numbeo website. The index ranges from 0 to 100 using data up to 36 months old.

Traffic Index by City 2024, Numbeo

Traffic Index is a composite measure that that considers factors such as commute time, dissatisfaction with time spent in traffic, CO₂ emissions, and overall traffic system inefficiencies. It provides insights into the overall traffic conditions in a city.

World’s Most Polluted Cities, IQ Air 2022

Particulate Matter (PM) Legend: <= 10 Excellent; 10.1-15 Very Good; 15.1-25 Good; 25.1-35 Poor; > 35 Hazardous

Thailand – Hill Tribe Trek

Author & Photographer: George Mitchell

George’s Bio

Our recommendations are not influenced by affiliate links – we have none. Our content and advice is derived from our personal experience and knowledge based on spending five months in Thailand as well as travelling for 3 years Round The World.

Why You Should See the Hill Tribes

Lisu Girls “Reading” Book, Hill Tribe Trek

Over thirty years ago, we were one year into our three year Round The World backpacking trip. It was time for an adventure.

View 0n Hill Tribe Trek

We hiked into the infamous Golden Triangle in search of colourful hill tribes living in Northern Thailand. The trek magically went to one village of each ethnic group. Traditionally, these groups were subsistence farmers, practising slash and burn farming methods. The infamous burning season is in March when the jungle is burned to create rice fields.

Hill Tribe Trek

Hikers and Guides, Hill Tribe Trek

We joined a five day Youth Hostel Tribal Trek on February 11th many decades ago. We went on a crowded truck to Fang and then began our hike. Sitting in the foreground, Corinne is the token blonde of our six-member plus two guides group.

Guide Pinan with Chest Tattoos

Pinan, our guide, gave us a short talk about each village before we entered. He did not walk around with us or help us communicate with the villagers. This was probably because the hill tribes did not speak Thai. They have their own languages belonging to the Tibetan-Burmese language group.

Lisu Girl

Scholars highly debate whether the original homeland of the Hill Tribes was Tibet. What is agreed is that they emigrated from Yunnan Province after the invasion of the Ming Dynasty in 1644.

Lisu Girl & Baby

In spite of being poor, the young children generally looked very healthy and cute. In contrast the older generation had very weathered faces. They do not have Thai citizenship and are considered usurpers, even if they were born in Thailand. They cannot own the land where they live.

Akha Village 1

Akha Village

Our first shock was that a third man joined our group as a guard armed with a rifle. He stayed with us for two days as we crossed the poppy fields. We were walking in the opium growing Golden Triangle. After a 41 minutes we reached an Akha village. Pinan told us that twins are considered a bad omen and are killed at birth. The couple must also move to another village.

Akha Woman Porter

Yes there are men in the villages but the male villagers we met wore western clothing so I did not take photos of them. The people looked poor and the boys made munching noises indicating they wanted candy, Unfortunately, men sell rice to buy opium. They don’t plant fruit or cash crops as they move around a lot.

Shan Village

Shan Village View

After a 1:15 hr walk we arrived at a Shan village. People seemed friendly and smiled easily. Pinan used to work here as a monk teacher. We slept in a large room up on a hill overlooking a Burmese style temple. The Shan tribe moved from Burma to Thailand but stay in one place. They don’t smoke opium. The men and women work together to grow tea and sell it to the Chinese.

It was very cold at night and Gail and ourselves were the only hikers that brought sleeping bags. The tribe rented thin blankets for THB 5 to the others. Two thin blankets were not enough. We woke up on a cold Friday morning and could see our frosted breath. Are we still in the tropics? On the other hand the air was clean and it was so tranquil. We had coffee, toast and jam to warm up.

Akha Village 2

Corinne Wearing Akha Costume

Akha females wear an elaborative headdress made with silver or white beads and silver coins. At the second Akha village, an old woman in traditional red and black costume dressed Corinne in their colourful headdress. Corinne looked like she just joined the Akha tribe. We thought they just wanted to see what a blonde girl looked like in their clothes. It turned out, they wanted to sell the headdress at a high price. We bought a gourd necklace instead.

Entrances to all Akha villages are fitted with a wooden gate adorned with elaborate carvings on both sides. A “spirit gate” marks domain of man from the realm of spirits and wildlife. The purpose of the spirit gate is to ward off evil spirits and entice favorable ones.

Karen Village

Smoking Karen Mother & Child

The Karen (Kaylin) migrated from Burma to Northern Thailand in the 18th century. This was spurred by the Kaylin struggle for independence from Burma. They are the most successful tribe financially. At the Karen village we walked around while lunch was prepared.

Young Married Karen Girl, Hill Tribe Trek

Unmarried girls wear red-fringed white dresses. We met one woman wearing the white cross stitched red and black vest over a red skirt. She was very pretty and looked too young to be married. We followed her to the waterhole where she filled bamboo tubes with clear water.

Karen Mother & Child Reading Book

We began our practice of showing tribal pictures in the People of the Hills book. This generated lots of interest.

KMT Chinese Village

The next part of the trek was a long uphill with several beautiful viewpoints. Although she had recently trekked in Nepal, Gail trailed way behind us. Thus 2.5 hours later we had to descend in the dark to a large KMT Chinese village. The stars sparkled above us and the lights of the village shone below, The lost army of the Chinese Nationalist Party (KMT) that did not make it to Taiwan, fled to Thailand.

Pinan pointed out poppy fields. He said this would yield 1.5 kg of opium, which earned the farmers only THB 3000 per kg.

KMT Village Headman

That evening, an old Chinese man brought his pipe and a few people smoked opium. It had a very sweet mellow smell. Only the two French members of our group tried opium.

Pandanus Trees

We walked through a very neat and large village on a hill with good views. Along the slope were pandanus trees.

Lisu Village

Rice Paddies near Burma

On Sunday we saw beautiful rice paddies with the mountains of Burma in the background. Rice is hydroponic grass. It is planted in muddy fields with dykes (paddies) or mountain terraces then flooded with water.

Rice (Oryza sativa) cultivation dates back to 11,500 BC in China. More than 90% of the world’s rice is grown in Asia. Thailand is the sixth largest producer.

The more advanced Indian civilization was emulated during the Indianization of Southeast Asia period. Thailand adopted Hindu deities, literature, merit making, marriage and ordination ceremonies. In wedding ceremonies, rice is thrown into the sacred fire. Rice symbolizes fertility, prosperity, and purity.

Lisu Mother & Child

We reached a very clean and organized Lisu village.

Lisu Child with String Earing

The string earing is a talisman to protect the child. There is free health care for the hill tribes but the villagers believe in animism and trust their shaman more.

Hikers and Lisu Kids

In poor areas of the world about 50% of the children die by age five! Pinan told us the Lisu had three shamen — one for crops, one for animals, and one for people. When someone is sick, the family has to make an offering of a chicken then second a pig. If the person died, they would simply accept that their life was finished.

Lisu Girls Reading Book

The Lisu women wore traditional green and blue dresses as well as pants. At first they were shy.

Lisu Girls Reading Book

We showed them tribal pictures in the People of the Hills book. This generated lots of interest.

Lisu Woman Porter

They are very responsible at an early age — cleaning, carrying wood, baskets…

Lisu Girl & Baby

As young as six years old, girls start carrying babies around, using a simple cloth to tie the baby onto their back. So cute!

Betelnut Smile, Lisu Village

Betel nut is the seed of the fruit of the areca palm. Betel nut is a stimulant drug, which means it speeds up the messages travelling between the brain and the body. Betel nut chewing is an important cultural practice. It stains the teeth red and causes mouth ulcers, gum disease, heart disease, and cancer.

Lisu Woman Porter

Lahu Village

Lahu Village View

The hill tribe villages are very poor. In this Lahu village they did weaving.

Lahu Girls, Hill Tribe Tre

The Lahu costume is red and black. Accompanied by our child entourage, we walked to the river where the adults were washing clothes and themselves. They covered up when they saw us.

Yao Village

Yao Village Hut

At the end of the trek, we saw a Yao village. The Yao don’t think they have enough kids so they buy them from other tribes.

Yao Woman Knitting

Miao Village

Miao Villagers

Miao villagers gave up opium farming to work on teak plantations and create woven goods.

Miao Women

There are an incredible number of weavers. Women and children wore colourful traditional dress.

Miao Mother & Baby

The Miao village is just off the main highway and they sell crafts to locals and tourists.

How has this Area Changed?

There are still hill tribe treks but few people seem to be talking about it. On our last trip to Thailand, we were able to drive through the area where we trekked.

We drove to the Royal King’s Agricultural Project started in the 1960s. These communities are now associated with organic farming of cash crops such as coffee and strawberries – the project is held in high regard globally as an example of an effective programme for eradicating opium growth.

Thai Craft Shopping

If you want to get a Thai souvenir, avoid touristy goods made in other countries.  Instead buy the best arts and crafts that are made in Thailand. Generally, these are made by the Hill Tribes.

Doi Suthep

Hill Tribe Mother (23) & Child, Doi Suthep

Most wats in Thailand have vendors selling food et al. to Buddhist visitors.

Hill Tribe Vendor, Doi Suthep

North of Chiang Mai is Doi Suthep National Park. It has a famous wat with hill tribe vendors selling crafts.

Hill Tribe Vendor, Doi Suthep

Thai Tribal Crafts

Karen Vest

Many of our crafts were bought at the Thai Tribal Crafts shop in Chiang Mai. Here we bought Karen vests, Akha beaded aprons, Miao and Karen pillow cases…

Thai Royal Barge, Eggshell on Black Lacquerware Plate

We were also able to go to a Hill Tribe Sale at the International School. Here we bought the very unique eggshell inlay on lacquerware plates and boxes made by the lepers from the McKean Rehabilitation Center in Chiang Mai.

Naraiphand Store

Thai Traditional Dancers, Gold on Black Lacquerware Plate

We went frequently to Naraiphand Handicrafts in Bangkok, where we bought so many of our Thai crafts, most of them made by the Hill Tribes. The prices were the same as in Chiang Mai. Our best buy was the ten inch gold inlay on black lacquerware plates, BHT 215 (USD 6), today worth over USD 100!

Thai Tribal Crafts Address and Hours

Address:
Open : 1000 – 2000 hrs
Website : https://www.myguidebangkok.com/shopping/narai-phand

Other Posts You May Like

Here are the other posts for visiting Chiang Mai.

Chiang Mai – Best Places to See Thai Temples and Culture

Chiang Mai – Food, Flowers and Festivals

Custom Maps and Facts to Plan your Itinerary

TH is the ISO Country Code for Thailand.
THB is the ISO Currency Code for Thai Bahts.
THB 100 = CAD 3.86, EUR 2.59, GBP 2.25, USD 2.83

Thailand Chiang Mai Map

When is the Best Time to Visit?

Based on average maximum temperatures from NOAA:

Month	Season	Max Temp	Rain Days
Nov-Feb	Cool	30 to 33°C	Nov = 4
Mar-May	Hot	34 to 35°C	5 to 13
Jun-Oct	Rainy	31 to 33°C	9 to 17

The data supports the fact that Nov-Feb is the best season to visit. November and April strike the best balance between less tourists and best weather. The southeast coast is best to visit January to March and July to September.

The high season is November to March when the weather is “cool” and dry. Prices will be higher and tourists will be numerous.

The shoulder season is April to June and October. The weather varies but is generally pleasant but hotter. It is more pleasant to be along the coast than inland.

The low season is from July to September. It coincides with short afternoon showers or monsoons. The southeast experiences heavy rainfall from October to December.

Is Thailand Safe?

According to the Numbeo Safety Index, Thailand is a very safe country.

Thai Culture and History

People of the Hills, book

Thailand – Ko Samet and the Best Islands

Author & Photographer: George Mitchell

George’s Bio

Our recommendations are not influenced by affiliate links – we have none. Our content and advice is derived from our personal experience and knowledge based on spending five months in Thailand as well as travelling for 3 years Round The World.

Why You Should Go to Ko Samet

Water Delivery, Ko Samet

Thirty years ago, we were one year into our three year Round The World backpacking trip. We had arrived in Thailand on January 3rd. It was time to take a vacation from the vacation.

We loved Ko Samet because there were less tourists going there at that time. Like many other islands, it provides turquoise ocean water lapping white sand beaches.

Thai Islands Map

All points of interest in this post can be found on our custom Thailand Islands Map and are suffixed by their Google Rating (G0 to G5). Anything rated >= 4.0 is very good; >= 4.4 is excellent.

Getting to Ko Samet

Harbour, Ko Samet

We took a bus from Bangkok to Rayong then a tuktuk to Ban Pae. As soon as we got off someone asked if we were going to Ko Samet. The first boat asked for THB 100, we shook our head for no thanks. The second boat asked for BHT 20. Surprisingly, the boat left right away. The only other passenger was an Aussie cancer researcher. The good old days!

Ko Samet

George at Our Hut, Ko Samet

The first places after the pier did not appeal to us. We walked to the last beach where we got a simple cane hut THB 50 with a mattress and mosquito nets. There were better huts for BHT 150 but we were on a long term trip.

We ate at little places run by the locals. We did not bring warm clothing and it was quite cool at night. Unlike when we went, Ko Samet is now a national park. The island is full of lush jungles and lush coconut groves. However, there are also high end places now.

Our Hut on the Beach, Ko Samet

The sun rose over a clear sky as there was no pollution like in Bangkok. There is not much to do here besides enjoying the beautiful turquoise water lapping the white sand beach. We went for a swim in the morning, walked along the trails, went back to the beaches in the afternoons, found brown cowrie shells, ate meals and met lots of other tourists.

View towards Rayong, Ko Samet

We went on a trail down to a rock-lined shore with pandanus trees. In the hazy distance was Rayong.

We met lots of backpackers from around the world as well as residents from Bangkok. We exchanged notes and found out one could travel to China for the first time without going with a tour group.

The Beach, Ko Samet

We spent the most time with Piek and Jean Pierre. Piek told us that Thais do not say good morning or similar greeting to people they live with. She was in boarding school since she was 3 years old! She went to school and then worked in Australia. She met Jean Pierre through her sister, who was a travel agent that had booked his trip to Vietnam. She talked about corruption in Thailand and said it was common for Thai nobility to have mistresses.

A group of Chinese-Thais from Bangkok were celebrating the Chinese New Year. Two of them worked in the family tannery business. They invited us to sit down and share food with them. They were quite friendly and happy.

Thai Islands Worth Visiting

We are researching destinations for our next trip to see the islands of Thailand. Some of the places are actually on the mainland. How do you choose where to go? If you ask other tourists on social media they will only be able to compare and comment on the few islands they may have visited for a couple of days. If you ask a travel agent they will sell you places they want you to go to or places they think you would want to visit.

Most of the time, people will promote well known places where most tourists visit like Ko Samui, Phuket, et al. We call this name recognition. From the photos of these places you can see wall-to-wall tourists on the beaches. On the plus side, these places will have lots of restaurants and night life. However, if you are looking for a tranquil vacation, going to a party island would be a wrong choice. Another factor is cost. For instance, Ko Samui is more expensive. Krabi is more affordable. There are many different styles of accommodation on the larger islands.

For those of us who prefer solitude and nature, I have done research to find what places are best to explore or relax.

Getting There

TH Islands Map Krabi

One reason people go to Phuket and Ko Samui is that you can fly directly there so it is very easy. Flights from Bangkok are either from Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK) or Don Muang (DMK).

Some destinations require lots of transportation transfers. The following table lists the islands with the shortest travel time (<= 3 hrs) or the cheapest travel cost. They are sorted by travel time.

The GR column is the Google Rating. Travel Time does not include waiting time. The Travel Costs are given in Canadian Dollars (CAD) and United States Dollars (USD). Use the free XE mobile app to translate Canadian Dollars (CAD) to your currency.

GR	Place Name	Travel Time	Travel Cost CAD	Travel Cost USD
4.5	Railay Beach	1:26 hrs	CAD 67-209	USD 49-154
4.3	Ko Yao Noi	1:50 hrs	CAD 69-223	USD 51-164
4.6	Ko Phi Phi	2:10 hrs	CAD 74-194	USD 55-143
4.4	Ko Muk	2:24 hrs	CAD 57-159	USD 42-117
4.7	Koh Kradan	2:30 hrs	CAD 80-194	USD 59-143
4.6	Ko Ngai	2:55 hrs	CAD 82-166	USD 60-122
4.5	Koh Phayam	3:00 hrs	CAD 54-105	USD 40-78
4.5	Khao Lak Beach	3:31 hrs	CAD 40-174	USD 30-128
4.5	Koh Chang	5:11 hrs	CAD 18-23	USD 13-17
4.6	Koh Kood	6:45 hrs	CAD 46	USD 34

Closest and Cheapest Island Options

Because people employ different spellings, I am using the place names defined by Google Maps. For instance, either ko and koh is Thai for island. I have sorted the islands below by their Google Rating.

4.8 Ko Similan

The main reasons to come to Ko Similan are coral reefs, scuba diving and snorkelling. The island also provides rainforests and beaches protected by Similan Islands NP. Two of the islands have accommodation. The islands are difficult to reach taking over 5 hours excluding wait time to get here from Bangkok BKK airport. The islands close every year between May and October.

Ko Similan Travel Time 5:05 hrs from Bangkok BKK airport.
Travel Cost CAD 208-369 = USD 153-272

Fly from BKK to Phuket 1:20 hrs CAD 35-170; Airport bus to Family Mart 5 mins. CAD 1-2; Bus or Taxi to Khao Lak 1:10 hrs CAD 95-120; ferry to Ko Similan 1:30 hrs CAD 77

4.7 Koh Kradan

Koh Kradan is one of the most beautiful and natural islands. It does not have a village, big hotels, or shops. It is a peaceful place without cars. It is not a place for people wanting nightlife or parties.

There are limited places to eat and stay with 5 main hotels along the 1.5 km east coast beach. Koh Kradan has been named the world’s best beach in the “Top 100 Beaches On Earth (2023)” by the World Beach Guide.

Koh Kradan Travel Time 2.5 hrs
Travel Cost CAD 80-194 = USD 59-143

Fly from BKK to Krabi airport 1:20 hrs CAD 35-140; Airport shuttle bus to Krabi 19 mins. CAD 4; Walk 10 mins. to Chao Fah Pier; ferry 30 mins. CAD 35-50 but only twice daily. Some sources stated that ferries only operate from November to April.

4.7 Koh Lanta

This is one of the best islands for an all-around Thai experience as well as for all budgets. It has morphed from backpacker to midrange and package tourist getaway. While close to Ko Phi Phi, it has remained far calmer. Hat Phra Ae and Ban Ko Lanta, the old port, have restaurants. Budget places can be found near Hat Khlong Nin.

The town of Trang is a great place for culture and cuisine. Try their crispy barbecued pork and coffee.

Koh Lanta Travel Time 4:15 hrs from Bangkok DMK airport.
Travel Cost CAD 87-168 = USD 64-124

Fly from DMK to Trang 1:20 hrs CAD 35-110; Shuttle to Pak Meng Beach 1 hr CAD 35; Car to Krabi Pier 1:25 hrs CAD 13-19; car ferry 0:30 hr CAD 4.

4.7 Khao Sok

Khao Sok is an amazing National Park (NP) located near the Andaman Coast two hours north of Krabi. It’s not a beach area. It’s home to the oldest virgin rainforest populated with 300 species of birds. Dramatic rock formations pierce the lake. Hotels, such as Khao Sok Riverside Cottages, will arrange trips into the NP, including on overnight stay on floating raft houses. The dry season is from November to February.

Khao Sok Travel Time 3:17 hrs
Travel Cost CAD 51-195 = 38-144

Fly from DMK to Surat Thani 1:10 hr CAD 30-150; Airport shuttle to Surat Thani Train Station 15 mins. 5x per day CAD 7-30; bus to Khao Sok 1:45 hrs once daily CAD 10; taxi to hotel 7 mins. CAD 4-5

4.7 Mu Ko Ang Thong

Do this trip to the National Marine Park as part of an organised tour.

Mu Ko Ang Thong Travel Time 2:02 hrs
Travel Cost CAD 75-270 = 55-199 + tour THB 1,800-3,000

Fly from Bangkok BKK to Koh Samui 1:10 hr CAD 75-270; boat to NP 52 mins.

4.6 Koh Kood

Koh Kood (Koh Kut) is located near Trat and the Cambodian border. It is an idyllic island with a peaceful atmosphere without the huge crowds of tourists. It offers beautiful white sand such as Ao Tapao Beach, White Beach, Bang Bao Beach, and Khlong Chao Waterfall.

Koh Kood Travel Time 6:45 hrs
Travel Cost CAD 46 = USD 34

Bus 5 hrs from Khao San Boonsiri to Koh Kood Transfer, ferry 45 mins. 6:45 hrs dep 05:00 h arr 11:45 h CAD 46

4.6 Ko Ngai

Koh Ngai is known as a high-end Thai island, popular with honeymooners and couples. It is not a place for backpackers and families.

Ko Ngai Travel Time 2:55 hrs
Travel Cost CAD 82-166 = USD 60-122

Fly from DMK to Trang 1:20 hr CAD 35-110; Taxi to Hat Yao Pier 50 mins. CAD 15-19; ferry 45 mins. 4x per day CAD 32-37

4.6 Ko Pha Ngan

With its boutique bungalows, Ko Pha Ngan is an alternative to Ko Samui. It is best for party seekers. infamous parties to its pristine beaches, The best time to visit the island is between February and September, when the weather is dry and sunny.

Ko Pha Ngan Travel Time 2:35 hrs
Travel Cost CAD 152-257 = USD 112-190

Fly from BKK to Koh Samui 1:35 hrs CAD 152-257; then ferry for one hour.

4.6 Ko Phi Phi

Koh Phi Phi Don is very beautiful! You can visit Tonsai Village Market and Loh Dalum, Ao Toh Ko, and Long Beaches. You can watch the sunset from Long, Laem Tong, and Nui Bay Beaches.

You can hike 20-40 minutes up stairs for an aerial view from the Koh Phi Phi Viewpoint. You can take a boat tour to Koh Phi Phi Leh and spectacular Maya Bay — when it reopens. Ko Phi Phi Leh is best for party people.

Ko Phi Phi Travel Time 2:10 hrs
Travel Cost CAD 74-194 = USD 55-143

Fly from Bangkok BKK to Krabi 1:20 hrs CAD 35-140; Airport shuttle to Chao Fah pier 19 mins every 3 hrs CAD 4; ferry for 30 mins. 2x per day CAD 35-50.

4.5 Railay Beach, Krabi

Railay Beach is absolutely worth visiting! Krabi Peninsula has some of Thailand’s most beautiful karst formations with white sand beaches. The only way to access Railay Beach is by boat. You can catch a boat to see Koh Poda. Everyone can get to Ao Nang, which is more crowded.

Railay Beach Travel Time 1:26 hrs
Travel Cost CAD 67-209 = USD 49-154

Fly from Bangkok DMK or BKK to Krabi 1:20 hrs CAD 59-199; taxi to Nuea Khlong 6 mins CAD 8-10

4.5 Khao Lak Beach

Khao Lak is definitely worth visiting! It is on the Andaman Sea with plenty of beaches, waterfalls, tropical forests, and national parks. The charming and calm beach town is located along the stunning Phang Nga Bay coastline Khao Lak Beach is low key area but with plenty of shopping and other facilities. Besides beaches, one can also visit Khao Lak-Lam Ru National Park. Khao Lak is south of Khao Sok.

Khao Lak Beach Travel Time 3:31 hrs
Travel Cost CAD 40-174 = USD 30-128

Fly from DMK to to Phuket 1:20 hrs CAD 35-160; Phuket Airport Bus to Thalang Public Health Office 15 mins. CAD 2-7; bus to Phuket Bus Terminal 2 30 mins. CAD 1-3; bus to Khao Lak 1:26 hrs every 4 hrs CAD 2-4

Budget travellers can Bus from Bangkok Mochit to Phuket 12 hrs CAD 23-35, bus to Khao Lak 1:26 hrs every 4 hrs CAD 2-4

4.5 Koh Chang

Koh Chang offers beautiful beaches and snorkelling. For affordable food and accommodation prices, avoid the west coast where tourism is booming. Go to the night market for cheap and delicious food. One source said to go to Had Sai Noi Beach, Salakkok Bay for a traditional fishing village, and a hike through the jungle to waterfalls.

Koh Chang Travel Time 5:11 hrs
Travel Cost CAD 18-23 = USD 13-17

Bus from Bangkok to Trat 4:30 hrs CAD 11-14, car to Center Point Pier 22 mins CAD 4-5; car to Koh Chang 19 mins, CAD 3-4

4.5 Koh Lipe

Koh Lipe is a paradise for stunning beaches, coral reefs, snorkelling, and tranquility. Its’ location near the Malaysian border means it’s harder to reach. Tourism on Koh Lipe is exploding with boutique resorts and parties, following in the footsteps of Koh Phi Phi. Best during wet season (May-June).

Koh Lipe Travel Time 5:55 hrs
Travel Cost CAD 69-219 = USD 51-161

Fly from DMK to Hat Yai 1:25 hrs CAD 35-180, ferry to Koh Lipe 4:30 hrs 2x per day CAD 34-39

4.5 Koh Phayam

Koh Phayam is off the Andaman coast. It is worth going to if you want a very quiet place away from the crowds. The island is fringed with beautiful sand like Ao Yai Beach. The spectacular NW and SW coasts are dotted with beach bungalows. The island comes with monkeys, snakes, and birds (toucans and hornbills).

Koh Phayam Travel Time 3.0 hrs
Travel Cost CAD 54-105 = 40-78

Fly from DMK to Ranong 1:20 hrs CAD 29-80; bus ferry 1:40 hrs 3x per day CAD 25

4.5 Ko Samui

Is Koh Samui worth visiting? The answer largely depends on the kind of experience you are looking for. It feels more urbanized than laid-back island. Koh Samui has exorbitantly priced resorts. However, there are also backpacker-priced places. Prices in Chaweng Beach (G4.4) range from CAD 24 to 440; Lamai Beach (G4.3) from CAD 22 to 779; and Bo Phut from CAD 19 to 186.

Ko Samui Travel Time 3:20 hrs
Travel Cost CAD 115-326 = USD 85-240

Fly from BKK to Ko Samui 3:20 hrs CAD 115-326. Budget travellers can go by bus/train and ferry 13:18 hrs for CAD 42-134

4.4 Ko Yao Noi

Koh Yao Yai is the much busier island but Ko Yao Noi is more relaxing and authentic. One source recommended Klong Jark Beach. Another source said the beaches are poor but the scenery is great with lots of birdlife. Do a tour to see Phang Nga Bay with its spectacular archipelago of limestone islands.

Ko Yao Noi Travel Time 1:50 hrs
Travel Cost CAD 69-223 = 51-164

Fly from BKK to Phuket 1:20 hrs CAD 35-170; Phuket airport bus to Ao Po Pier, 11 mins once daily, CAD 15-18; ferry 0:20 hrs CAD 19-35

4.4 Ko Muk

Ko Muk Pronounced mook, Also known as Koh Muk, this stunning island paradise in the Andaman Sea is far less touristy than its neighbours such as Koh Phi Phi and Phuket, and that is what makes it so special. Walking around the traditional fishing village Baan Koh Mook gives a fascinating insight into how the local Thai people live,

Ko Muk Travel Time 2:24 hrs
Travel Cost CAD 57-159 = USD 42-117

Fly from DMK to Trang 1:20 hrs CAD 35-110, car to Hat Yao Pier 49 mins. CAD 8-11; ferry to Ko Muk 15 mins. 4x per day CAD 14-29

4.4 Ko Tao

Close to famous Koh Samui and Koh Phangnan, Koh Tao is located in the Gulf of Thailand. While it has become more upscale, Ko Tao is not as bad as Ko Samui. It is very popular for scuba diving.

Ko Tao Travel Time 5:40 hrs
Travel Cost CAD 122-335 = USD 90-247

Fly from BKK to Ko Samui 1:10 hrs CAD 80-280, taxi to Lomprayah Pralarn Pier 17 mins. CAD 22-27; ferry to Ko Tao 1:30 hrs. every 4hrs CAD 20-27.

Budget travellers could take bus and ferry from Khao San Lomprayah, Bangkok 11:45 hrs 3x per day CAD 30-60

Custom Maps and Facts to Plan your Itinerary

TH is the ISO Country Code for Thailand.
THB is the ISO Currency Code for Thai Bahts.
THB 100 = CAD 3.86, EUR 2.59, GBP 2.25, USD 2.83

Thailand Islands Map

Best Thai Islands to Visit to Avoid Tourists, Culture Trip

Best Thai Islands to Visit, Tour Radar

Rome2Rio for transportation planning

10 Lesser Known Places in Thailand, Tourism Thailand

12goAsia for transportation planning

Other Posts You May Like

If you only have a day in Bangkok on the way to or from one of the islands then be sure to see Wat Phra Kaew.

Bangkok — Do not Miss Wat Phra Kaew

Bangkok — Are Wat Pho, Wat Arun and the National Museum Worth Visiting?

When is the Best Time to Visit?

Based on average maximum temperatures from NOAA:

Month	Season	Max Temp	Rain Days
Nov-Feb	Cool	30 to 33°C	Nov = 4
Mar-May	Hot	34 to 35°C	5 to 13
Jun-Oct	Rainy	31 to 33°C	9 to 17

The data supports the fact that Nov-Feb is the best season to visit. November and April strike the best balance between less tourists and best weather. The east coast is best to visit January to March and July to September.

The high season is November to March when the weather is “cool” and dry. Prices will be higher and tourists will be numerous.

The shoulder season is April to June and October. The weather varies but is generally pleasant but hotter. It is more pleasant to be along the coast than inland.

The low season is from July to September. It coincides with short afternoon showers or monsoons. The east coast (Koh Samui) experiences heavy rainfall from October to December.

Is Thailand Safe?

According to the Numbeo Safety Index, Thailand is a very safe country.

Best Places for 2 Weeks in Ireland

Why do 2 Weeks in the Southwest of Ireland?

Dunquin View, Slea Head Drive, Dingle Peninsula

For your first trip to Ireland, we highly recommend the Southwest Region as the best place to see Quintessential Ireland — it has white sheep on green pastures, golden sand beaches, crumbling castles, dramatic cliffs, and drop dead coastal views. 

Author & Photographer: George Mitchell

George’s Bio

Our recommendations are not influenced by affiliate links – we have none. Our content and advice is derived from our personal experience, and knowledge based on living in Europe for seven years.

Travel Guidelines

Here are some basic principles to follow when you travel in Ireland.

1. Give up trying to “see everything”. You cannot.
2. Some places may be better to visit than others but getting from A to B is just as beautiful as destination B.
3. Tour one one concise geographic region in each week.
4. Meet the people — one of the most important “destinations”.
5. Use 75 km per hour to calculate driving duration. Ignore Google travel time based on ridiculous 100 kph speed limits on Irish two-lane roads not properly built for that speed.
6. Avoid travelling to a new city every day. Too many tourists think they can drive all day and then see their destination as well.

You need to factor in travel time, sightseeing and activity time.

Purpose of Travel

Slea Head Drive, Dingle Peninsula

How do you plan the best itinerary? What are your interests?  What activities do you want to do? If your purpose is to visit towns and enjoy the pubs and museums then that’s great. Other people may be more interested in coastlines, scenery, and hiking.

I see many tours that are just a list of well known towns. The question is why are you going there? For instance, do you know why you are travelling to a town like Dingle. The answer should not be because I have heard of that name — what I call “name recognition”. The answer should be Slea Head Drive above, which means you need the next day to explore that coastal road.

Quintessential Ireland

Quintessential Ireland, Ring of Kerry

We like to experience the things that make Ireland unique. To us cities like Dublin and Cork are not what makes Ireland unique. Quintessential Ireland is white sheep on green farmland, golden sand beaches, rugged coastlines and cliffs, National Trust (OPW) castles (not tourist traps), glorious viewpoints, and hiking. In the next post we describe what we feel is Quintessential Ireland and what places are examples of where to see it. This itinerary is based on the features of Quintessential Ireland.

Quintessential Ireland

What are the Best Places in Southwest Ireland?

Darrynane Beach, Ring of Kerry

We lived in Europe for 7 years and usually had 5 week vacations. But what are the best places to see in Ireland if you only have two weeks of vacation or less?

We have curated the best places to visit including two of the best castles in Ireland. You may have other opinions and interests. But our advice is confirmed by the residents of Ireland via the Google Map Rating (G0 to G5) provided for each place. All but one of our recommendations are over 4.5, a very high rating indeed.

Rock of Cashel from Viewpoint

We have developed a custom Ireland Best 2 Week Trip Map and pinned all the points of interest with the Google Rating suffixed. In order to let you customize the itinerary to your interests yet stay with the 14-day period, we have provided three options:

1. Kinsale Option;
2. Trim Option;
3. Dublin Area Option.

Rock of Cashel – Day 1

Drive: 175 km, 2 hrs from Dublin Airport, about 1 hr past Dublin
Stay: Cashel, Cahir, Kilkenny

Rock of Cashel from Viewpoint

After driving past rolling green farmland suddenly there is a huge shock. A massive set of beige buildings rises high above the verdant green valley. The second shock was that the road provided a large pull off to see the viewpoint. This came with a beautiful bas relief of St. Patrick converting and baptizing King Angus at the Rock of Cashel in 450 CE.

Cathedral, Rock of Cashel

The Rock of Cashel (G4.5) is one of the best sights to visit in Ireland as well as being a convenient spot to stop. The cathedral was built between 1235 and 1270. The Puritan dictator, Oliver Cromwell overthrew King Charles I and became ruler of Britain. He desecrated and destroyed all the Catholic Churches and massacred 1000 residents in Cashel that claimed sanctuary in the Cathedral. Cromwell ignored this basic right of law.

Round Tower, Rock of Cashel

Take all the included guided walks and be sure to visit the round tower, the cathedral (1270) and the Hall of the Vicars Choral.

Cashel View from Rock of Cashel

The setting of this site is superb. There are incredibly beautiful views of the surrounding green countryside and the town of Cashel.

Hore Abbey

Rock of Cashel from Hore Abbey

Just below the Rock are the ruins of Hore Abbey (G4.6). Be sure to visit it. There is not much left of this Cistercian Abbey but the views of the Rock of Cashel were stunning. See detailed itinerary in…

Shock of Cashel

Kinsale Option

Blue and Orange Buildings, Kinsale

We loved the colourful fishing village of Kinsale (G4.7). If you really only have 14 days then we would not include Kinsale. However, you could reduce one day from the end of the trip in exchange.

Purple and Red Buildings, Kinsale

If you have more than 14 days then you should definitely see this village for at least one day before driving to Kenmare.

View from B&B, Ardkilly Ridge Road, Kinsale

This is the beautiful view from our B&B on Ardkilly Ridge Road in the outskirts of Kinsale. The golden crop is rapeseed, a member of the mustard family, grown to produce oil. In Canada it is known as canola, a superior cultivar of this plant invented in Canada.

Cloudy Cobh to Kool Kinsale

Kenmare – Day 2

Drive: 189 km, 2:10 hrs
Stay: Kenmare

If you arrived on a late flight on day 1, visit the Rock of Cashel and the highway viewpoint in the morning of day 2. Then proceed to Cahir (G4.6) where there is another castle either for an outside photo shoot or a visit.

From here drive to Kenmare, which has a great Fish and Chips or else there are several restaurants to choose from in attractive downtown Kenmare.

Killarney National Park

If you still have the afternoon, its time to see Killarney NP. If not there is time on the morning of Kenmore to Dingle – Day 4 to do the following points.

Moll’s Gap

Moll’s Gap, Killarney

Drive to Moll’s Gap (G4.7). This pull off provided wide open views of a heath landscape of rock-strewn fields and mountains. At this Y junction, the left road travels through this kaarst landscape to Sneem.

Ladies View

Ladies’ View, Killarney

The main road turns right to Ladies’ View (G4.8) and Killarney.

Muckross House

Muckross House, Killarney

If you have time left over, you could visit the free rhododendron gardens of Muckross House. They were blooming in May.

Muckross Gardens, Killarney

We have included a drive through Killarney NP on the way from Kenmore to Dingle Day 4. These are the only points in Killarney NP that I have highlighted. Why is Killarney the town not part of our itinerary. It is over touristed, high traffic area. that is not worth the hype. Beware of locals travelling 100 kph on roads that should be limited to 70 kph, in spite of one-lane tunnels. Killarney is very special to the Irish because it has forests and a large lake; but it does not compare to the national parks of North America.

See detailed itinerary in…

Krazy Killarney

Real Ring of Kerry – Day 3

Drive: 105 km 2:20 hrs
Stay: Portmagee, Kenmare

O’Carroll’s Cove Beach

O’Carroll’s Cove Beach 27mm View, Ring of Kerry

The Ring of Kerry (ROK) is a loop road N70 from Killarney that is highly hyped but much of it is unremarkable inland driving. The Real ROK is along the coast. The most scenic spot on the road starts at the O’Carroll’s Cove Beach Restaurant Viewpoint (my name) – 64 km from Killarney. There is a large pull off before and at the restaurant. Here a glorious white sand crescent beach is lapped by partially turquoise waters. We had no idea that the North Atlantic has a turquoise colour – sometimes.

Darrynane Beach

Darrynane Beach, Ring of Kerry

In fact, the actual ROK road bypasses a few of the best places to see in this area. So those who take bus tours really miss the most important sights. At Caherdaniel, be sure to turn left (west) off the ROK to visit Derrynane Beach (G4.8). There is something wonderful about driving off the road to this secluded beach lined with rocks and ringed by islets.

The side road continues further west to Derryname House (G4.7), where we also got something to eat at the picnic tables. This is the ancestral home of Daniel O’Connell, the Liberator of Ireland. There is a second Derryname Beach parking area after the mansion.

Scarriff Island Viewpoint

Scarriff Island Wide Angle View, Ring of Kerry

Take the side road north to get back on the ROK and stop at the Scarriff Island Viewpoint (G4.8). This wide angle view (38 mm) makes you feel as if you are in an airplane with green farmland sloping down to the blue coast.

Scarriff Island Zoom View, Ring of Kerry

This is a zoom view (168 mm) of the same photo above of Scarriff Island. Here is your view of Quintessential Ireland complete with white sheep on green hills stretching to the rugged coastline.

Com an Chiste Viewpoint, Ring of Kerry

This is the view from Com an Chiste Viewpoint (G4.7). The ROK is one of the few roads in Ireland that provides turn offs. There are many others that you should stop at: we are only providing the must-see stops.

Kerry Cliffs Portmagee

Kerry Cliffs, Portmagee, Ring of Skellig

After the Charlie Chaplin statue in Waterville, turn left off the ROK onto the Ring of Skellig road R567 and then left on R566. Be sure to visit Kerry Cliffs Portmagee (G4.8), the best cliffs (in the west) after the Cliffs of Moher.

Kerry Cliffs, Portmagee, Ring of Skellig

Unlike Moher, the promontories here allow you to get up close and personal views of the sides of the cliffs. So definitely walk all these side trails.

Geokaun Mountain

Also be sure to cross the bridge at Portmagee and follow the signs to privately owned Geokaun Mountain (G4.8) for spectacular views of the surrounding coast and countryside.

Valentia Lighthouse View, Geokaun Mountain

Wow, what 360° views! That’s the white Valentia Lighthouse in the centre left above.

Real Ring of Kerry

Com an Chiste Viewpoint, Ring of Kerry

We hope by now that you realize that the Real Ring of Kerry is the quintessential place to go rather than Killarney. As we slept over in Kenmore we headed back along the Ring of Skellig and ROK, except now we had sunset lighting! Do not go back along the inland route to Killarney as that will take forever. See detailed itinerary in…

Ring of Kerry

Kenmore to Dingle – Day 4

Drive: 108 km 1:50 hrs
Stay: Dingle

Killarney National Park Scene 2

While the map shows the route from Portmagee to Dingle, we preferred staying and leaving from Kenmore. You can spend this morning at the stops previously described in Killarney National Park: Moll’s Gap (G4.7), Ladies View (G4.8), and Muckross House. If you have seen those points then stop off at Muckross Abbey (G4.8).

Inch Beach

Inch Beach, Dingle Peninsula

After getting something to eat, the next most memorable sight on the drive to Dingle was the massive Inch Beach (G4.8). The golden sand is lined by the ocean and backdropped by the coast.

Dingle

The Fish Box, Dingle

Dingle (towns are not rated by Google) is a nice village with many restaurants and other attractions.

Slea Head Drive – Day 5

Drive: 50 km 1:15h to Conor Pass
Stay: Dingle

Slea Head Viewpoints

Ceann Sléibhe, Slea Head Drive, Dingle Peninsula

Slea Head Drive (G4.8) is definitely a must see and the real reason to go to Dingle. That means you need at least two nights for Dingle. Drive west along the narrow Slea Head Drive, aka Highway R559. There are two Slea Head Viewpoints (G4.8), one was labelled Ceann Sléibhe.

Dunquin Pier

Walking to Dunquin Pier, Slea Head Drive

The next stop is Dunquin Harbour (G4.9). If you have mobility problems, see the view from the cliff edge near the parking area.

Dunquin Pier, Slea Head Drive

Otherwise, walk down the steep stone switchbacks to Dunquin Pier. Each turn provides wonderful photos. It is definitely worth a 5+ rating.

Clogher Head

Clogher Head, Slea Head Drive, Dingle Peninsula

Clogher Head has some of the best views of the whole road. First stop at the Clogher Viewpoint then go to the Clogher Strand, the golden sand beach. Then walk along the Clogher Head trail up to the head. We must have spent about an hour here and down at Clogher Strand.

Gallarus Oratory

Gallarus Oratory

It’s amazing how in the 7th century they could build Gallarus Oratory (G4.2) solely with stones. The inverted boat design acts as an arch and lintel stones are used to strengthen the door. It is not a must-see but we had the Heritage Ireland (OPW) pass.

The whole Slea Head Drive route took 8 hours with lots of stops and walks. Conor Pass (G4.8) is another viewpoint but it is on a separate road from Dingle. If you have time, visit it today (if it is sunny) but you get another chance tomorrow. See detailed itinerary in…

Dazzling Dingle

Dingle to Doolin – Day 6

Drive: 157 km 3:30 hrs via Tarbert
Stay: Doolin, Lahinch, Ennis, Lisdoonvarna, Ballyvaughan

Conor Pass

Conor Pass, Dingle

Depart Dingle on highway R560 to Conor Pass (G4.8), a beautiful viewpoint. It was wet and rainy the day we left but I used Luminar Neo to transform the photo. After Tralee head to Tarbert, where you take the ferry to reduce the distance and bypass Limerick. While you could sightsee along the way, we would recommend visiting Moher right away if it’s a sunny day. No leeway was added to the schedule to wait for better weather.

While many tourists want to stay in Doolin, it is a very small village with limited accommodation. For this reason we provided several alternative towns. We ourselves commuted from Ennis.

Cliffs Of Moher – Day 7

Drive: 39km 0:40 hrs from Ennis; 30km 0:37 hrs from Ballyvaughan
Stay: Doolin, Lahinch, Ennis, Lisdoonvarna, Ballyvaughan

Guerin’s Hill, Cliffs of Moher

Cliffs Of Moher G4.7 is not only the most spectacular sight, it is also the most overrun with tourists and we went in April. But you cannot appreciate the beauty without taking a hike. The trail goes right along the edge of the cliffs. Do not be a Village Idiot (VI) and walk near or sit on the edge! Tourists have died in Ireland.

Cliffs of Moher, Ireland

For me the highlight was walking along the cliffs in spite of the many tourists. The areas furthest from the visitor centre had the fewest tourists. What I did and highly recommend is the hike from Guerin’s Path to O’ Briens Tower, just past the Visitor Centre. It’s one hour return but you will probably spend two hours, especially if you like photography.

The OPW Visitor Centre charges an outrageous €9 per person for parking: note that all National Parks in Ireland are free — this is an exception. We used the alternative access point discussed in…

Cliffs of Moher Up Close

The Burren

Parabolic Rock, The Burren, Ireland

The Burren (G4.6) is well worth doing to see a totally different, karst scenery. There are some tourists but mainly when a tourist bus stops. Limestone is formed from millions and millions of years of compressed coral, ammonites and other sea shells.

At the Cliffs of Moher you can view the millions of years of horizontal sediments that were raised out of the water! This occurred as part of the formation of Europe.

Bloody Cranesbill, The Burren

If you like exploring you will find beautiful flowers, such as Bloody Cranesbill, a type of Geranium. There are also interesting villages, shops and dolmens in this barren area.

More than the Cliffs of Moher

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For those who only have one week, it is now time to return to your departure airport.

Galway – Day 8

Drive: 75 km 1:32 hr from Doolin; 52 km 1:05 hr from Ballyvaughan
Stay: Salt Hill, Galway

Ballyvaughan to the north of The Burren is worth a stop to photograph the thatched roof houses and Muckinish West Tower House. It is a very short drive north from Ballyvaughan to the quiet western suburb of Salt Hill, where we stayed in a wonderful B&B.

Galway is a delightful city where you can walk along pedestrian streets as well as visit Galway Cathedral, St. Nicholas Church, Spanish Arch and the River Corrib.

To us Galway was base for a few road trips. In other words, you need 2 to 3 days depending on your choices.

Genial Galway

Gurteen Bay – Day 9

Drive: 106 km 2:05h one way
Stay: Salt Hill, Galway, Clifden

The first 38.7 km of the drive on Highway N59 was neither memorable nor photogenic. Suddenly, there was a parking area on the left with many cars. Lough Bofin (pronounced loch and meaning lake) was not that close but houses and green hillside pastures reflected in the lake. It was magical. 

Pines Island Viewpoint, Highway N59

Pines Island is a viewpoint on the right side of the road. An island of pines were reflected in the still waters of Derryclare Lough surrounded by imposing mountains. How often is there no wind in Ireland?

Gurteen Bay Beaches

Soon after Pine Island, turn left on Route R341 to Roundstone (80.5 km). There are restaurants and cafés here.

Gurteen Bay, Roundstone

Just 3 km later we arrived at one of the premiere sights of this itinerary, Gurteen Bay (G4.9). Here was a crescent beach with white sand made from tiny marine creatures. Ooh, so soft!

Seventh Heaven comes with a picnic bench overlooking the crescent-shaped, turquoise-tinged Gurteen Bay.  So we enjoyed the scenery while eating silky Brie de Meaux, scrumptious Tipperary Blue and creamy Tolu Goat Cheese on delicious Rivercote crackers. 

Dogs Bay Beach, Gurteen Bay, Errisbeg

I hiked up the nearby hill and walked through the pastures. In less than 15 minutes I arrived at Dog’s Bay and its’ white sand beach. It was amazing to see back to back reverse crescent beaches.

Will these magnificent beaches never stop? The next stop was marked White Beach on Google Maps but its’ official name is Mannin Bay.

Sky Road Viewpoints

Sky Road Viewpoint

Sky Road unfortunately does not provide pull offs until the Sky Viewpoint (G4.8) at the top.

Sky Road View North, Ireland

The road downhill (north) had more views but no where to stop. All you can do is just stop on the road.

From Galway to Gurteen Bay

Connemara to Kylemore Abbey – Day 10

Drive: 97 km, 1:40 hrs from Clifden to Galway one way
Stay: Clifden, Salt Hill, Galway

If you finished the Sky Road Viewpoint early then you could continue on to Connemara. Else we put this as another day.

Connemara National Park (NP) was very disappointing as it had no roads and no views. It was just a parking lot for three hiking trails. The Visitor Centre host said the drive into the mountains on Highway R344 north of Pines Island was more spectacular than the NP.

Kylemore Abbey

Kylemore Abbey, Connemara

We travelled to nearby Kylemore Abbey (G4.0). This site was easily the most overrun with tourists and tour buses of our trip so far. It is owned and run by the Benedictine Nuns (fee €17, senior €13.50; open 10:00 to 17:00). You can park for free and grab coffee or lunch for €12. The best view and photos can be taken from the bridge to the restaurant, reflections included.

Killary Fjord

The side trip ended with a bang at Killary Fjord as the hills above it were covered with red Rhododendrons in May!

Kylemore to Connemara

An alternative option for Day 10 is to visit Cong Abbey and Ashford Castle (from outside as for guests only), 

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There are two options for the end of the trip: Trim or Dublin

Trim Option – Days 11-13

Drive: 183 km, 2:10 hrs
Stay: Trim

Colourful Buildings of Trim

Supposedly, the reason ports have brightly colored houses was to help sailors and fishermen find ports, especially during fog and inclement weather. However, Trim is not on the coast. Perhaps this was to ensure everyone can find the pubs!

If you arrive early you can get lunch. Staying Trim in Ireland is not a post about dieting. Trim is an interesting small town of 9000 people with at least four good reasons to stay there. It is a good base to:

1. See Trim Castle and town;
2. See Neolithic Newgrange, which is 5000 years old;
3. Stay at the great Crannmor Guest House;
4. Depart for Dublin Airport only 40 minutes away.

Trim Castle

Trim Castle Curtain Wall, Trim

Before you write Trim Castle off as just another ruin think about the year 1066. Why is this date significant? Why is this is considered a turning point in European history? The Normans invaded southern England and defeated the battle weary Saxons at the Battle of Hastings in 1066.

Trim Castle Interior Moat

Today Trim is the largest Norman castle still standing. You can thank 1066 for all the castles found in Ireland. Castles were a French invention. The Normans built castles to defend themselves against the Saxons they had conquered.

Staying Trim in Ireland

Neolithic Newgrange, Brú na Bóinne

Drive: 33 km, 0:36 hrs
Stay: Trim

Newgrange View

Brú na Bóinne is one of the oldest sites in Europe. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is from the megalithic (Stone Age) era. The fee depends on the site visited €10 to 18, senior €8 to 16; open 10:00 to 17:00 hrs.

Newgrange Entrance Wall

Follow the signs for Newgrange, which was built around 3200 BC. It is over 500 years older than the first pyramid at Saqqara, Egypt (2667 BC). These passage tombs are believed to be evidence of a cult of the dead.

Neolithic Newgrange

Malahide Castle and Gardens

Drive: 55 km, 0:55 hrs
Stay: Trim

Another nearby place to visit is Malahide Castle and Gardens (G4.6). We did not get a chance to visit. But you can see how you can have a very enjoyable and more relaxed end to your trip without the hustle of Dublin. 

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Dublin Option

Drive: 229 km, 2:36 hrs from Galway to Dublin
Stay: Dublin

It is an easy all-expressway drive from Galway to Dublin. However, traffic in Dublin will slow you down. You can spend all 3 days exploring Dublin or you can visit some of the special places outside of town. 

Dublin Walks – Days 11-13

You need at least two days for Dublin and more if you want to visit the museums and Guinness brewery. 

9 Perfect Places for Dabbling with Dublin

9 Places for Decanting Dublin

For the third day, you could go to some of the paid attractions or museums. Alternatively, you can drive out of town to Powerscourt and/or Glendalough. 

Powerscourt

Drive: 21 km, 0:33 hrs
Stay: Dublin

Do you want to see a gorgeous garden? You will especially like the Italianate Gardens and the Japanese Gardens. It is considered the third best in the world by National Geographic! There were beautiful rhododendrons when we visited in May!

The Power of Powerscourt

Glendalough

Drive: 50 km, 1:10 hrs including distance to Powerscourt
Stay: Dublin

Glendalough was a special find of an archaeological sight plus a scenic drive in the countryside. Do not miss it! Glendalough Monastery was started in the 6th century by St. Kevin. After seeing a short film, we went with a free guide to tour the site. 

The most unique building is the Round Tower. It was used as a watch tower and a treasure room. Its front door requires a ladder to enter. During Viking invasions, they could pull up the ladder to protect the wealth stored inside. But its’ primary purpose was as a bell tower, a tradition of Campanile in Roman Catholic Italy – the Tower of Pisa is an example.

Glorious Glendalough

Dublin Airport – Day 14

Drive: 16 km, 0:22 hrs
Stay: depart

Final Comments on this Itinerary

This is an action-packed itinerary. Unless you are our son, you probably don’t do any sightseeing on the last day. 

If you have more than 14 days, add time for Kinsale and to one of the stopovers previously mentioned for two reasons: as an extra rest day or in case of rain to give you another chance at better weather for sightseeing.

Other Posts You May Like

This itinerary was based on the features that make Ireland unique…

Quintessential Ireland

Custom Maps and Facts to Plan your Itinerary

Ireland Best 2 Week Trip Map

Ireland FAQ

The FAQ post answers questions such as:

• What should I go to Ireland?
• What is the best season for travel?
• What is the best clothing?
• Where should I go? What are the must-sees?
• How much time do I need for Ireland?
• Can I see everything in a week?
• How safe is Ireland?
• How much cash should you take to Ireland?
• Should I pay in Euros or my own currency? 
• What apps are useful for travel?
• Should I rent a car? Take a Taxi?

Rotorua — Thermal Hot Spot of New Zealand

Author & Photographer: George Mitchell

George’s Bio

Our recommendations are not influenced by affiliate links – we have none. Our itineraries, photos, and advice are based having stayed in NZ for a total of six months (over three trips). We are avid hikers, nature lovers and photographers. NZ is one of our favourite destinations.

Why You Must Go to Rotorua

Pohutu Geyser, Whakarewarewa

This is one of the top four destinations you should include in your New Zealand (NZ) itinerary. The Rotorua area is known as the best place to see colourful thermal pools and volcanic mountains in NZ. It is also a great place to meet Māoris, watch Maori craftspeople, see Maori dancing, enjoy a hangi banquet, and learn about their culture.

When we first visited the Rotorua and Tongariro regions we had never seen a thermal area or walked on a volcano before. We were amazed! Yes, Rotorua is very touristy but still worth visiting. Over half of the tourists are Kiwis. Most of them will be on vacation starting ca. December 20th for five to six weeks.

Google Place Ratings

All the points of interest are pinned to our custom NZ Rotorua-Tongariro Region Map. Each place name in this post is appended with the Google rating in brackets (e.g. G4.0). Any rating ≥ 4.0 is considered very good; ≥ 4.4 is considered excellent. Google is a much more trust-worthy indicator than travel booking sites. 

Rotorua

Rotorua is a very small city of 58,900 residents, of which 35% are Māori. The Māori sailed from Eastern Polynesia and settled in Rotorua around 1325. The locals are outnumbered by the ca. 3.5 million tourists each year; however, half of them are Kiwis. Rotorua is an active geothermal area due to the Rotorua Caldera formed by a major volcanic eruption ca. 240,000 years ago.

Maori

Maori Hosts, Gisborne

We were very lucky to spend a few nights through a homestay exchange program with these Māoris at a marae in the non-touristy Gisborne region of NZ. The Māoris form 17% of the population of NZ. One major change since our first trip is the use of Māori names for major sights and the change to bilingual place name signs.

The Māori emigrated after 1320 in several waves from Polynesia. The ancestors of the Polynesians were the Lapita people, who sailed from Taiwan ca. 1100-900 BC. This has been determined by DNA and linguistic analysis; thereby refuting Thor Heyerdahl’s theory. The Polynesians used bird species, star gazing, cloud formations, and wave motions to find islands in the massive Pacific Ocean.

Maori Commemorative Stamps

The 1980 commemorative stamp issue featured Maori leaders who made a difference. Te Heu Heu Tukino IV was a paramount chief of central North Island. Before his death, he bequeathed three mountain peaks — Tongariro, Ngauruhoe and Ruapehu — to NZ in 1887. This is very significant because these volcanoes became Tongariro National Park. Ngauruhoe (see below) was used as Mt. Doom in the Lord of the Rings movie.

Te Hau-Takiri Wharepapa was one of fourteen Maori who sailed to England in 1863 to meet Queen Victoria. He married an English woman. The reason for including these stamps is to show what traditional Māori men used to look like; in particular, the facial and body tattoos.

Tā Moko

Our word tattoo originated from the mispronunciation by Captain James Cook (1769) of the Tahitian word tautau. The Polynesians brought their tā moko (tattoo) art form to NZ.

It reflects an individual’s ancestry and is considered highly sacred. In earlier times, it was an important signifier of social rank, knowledge, skill and eligibility to marry. Many of the designs are universal. In particular, the spirals that swirl across the nose, cheek and lower jaw.

Koru

Koru, the Uncurled Fern

The tattoo motifs carry over to wood carvings. The koru (spiral) depicts new beginnings, growth and harmony. This symbol originated from the unfurled fern leaf. The silver fern is the most iconic symbol of NZ. It is used by the All Blacks Rugby team and Air New Zealand — and it almost became the new NZ flag.

Whakarewarewa

Whakarewarewa is a thermal area as well as Maori cultural experience located within Rotorua. Most locals just call it Whaka, which is pronounced “faka”. This must-see is the most accessible place, especially for those who do not have a car.

Te Aronui-a-Rua Meeting House

Te Aronui-a-Rua Meeting House, Whakarewarewa

The carvings for the meeting house took ten years to complete. The central figure holding a mere mere club at the top represents the chief. Normally, the carved slabs would represent the ancestors but these were made for tourists.

Meeting House and Pataka, Whakarewarewa

Pataka is a food storehouse built on stilts to prevent the dogs from entering. However, the Māori staple kumara (sweet potato) was buried underground. Note the use of shiny paua (abalone) mother-of-pearl shells for eyes! Pāua are also associated with the symbolic eyes of ancestors that gaze down from the night sky. Definitely try paua fritters when you visit.

Tiki

Meeting House Carving, Whakarewarewa

The wood carvings are beautiful but they are very symbolic as well. There is a repeating pattern of tiki figures. The tiki is a talisman to the Maori people, and has been regarded as a good luck charm since ancient times. The tiki symbolizes fertility and is believed to represent the unborn human embryo. The figures are often portrayed with three fingers, representing the cycle of life — birth, life, and death.

Te Puia

Pataka, Whakarewarewa

Te Puia is a small Māori settlement that now serves as a museum of Māori culture and buildings. This was the site of the Māori fortress or pa first occupied around 1325. The Pataka looks like Thai spirit house but is used to store things.

Pa Gate, Whakarewarewa

The gateway into the pa depicts two lovers, Hinemoa and Tutanekai. Hinemoa was the daughter of a great chief who lived along the shores of Lake Rotorua. She was very beautiful, and because of her beauty and high rank, many young men desired her as their wife.

Tūtānekai was one of these would-be suitors, but he knew his rank was not high enough for Hinemoa’s father to accept him. Tūtānekai was content with gazing at Hinemoa from a distance, and yet it seemed that she would return his looks.

When Tūtānekai asked Hinemoa to leave her home and come to him, she agreed. Her people had suspected her intention, and they had pulled all the canoes high up on the shore. Instead, she swam towards the sound of Tūtānekai’s flute. Tūtānekai took her to his house and according to custom, they were married. They moved to Rotorua.

Maori Carving

Canoe Prow Carving, Whakarewarewa

There is a carving school to preserve Māori skills. Here is the beautifully carved prow of a canoe. The use of the spiral is a common motif.

Maori Weaving

Maori explaining hoe piupiu is made

A woman explained how Māoris used a shell to scrape off the outer layer of the flax at intermittent sections, leaving unstripped leaf in between. Only the exposed fibre absorbs the dye, creating a striped black and white effect.

A piupiu is a skirt-like garment made of these flax strands that hang from a belt. When the wearer moves, the strands sway to and fro. The word piupiu means to swing.

Geothermal Sights

Frog’s Pond, Whakarewarewa

Geothermal features can be found throughout the village. There are boiling mud pools sprinkled among houses.  Frog’s Pond is a jumping mud pool.

Sulphur Deposits, Whakarewarewa

The rotten egg smell is everywhere, not only in Whaka but all of Rotorua.  Hydrogen sulfide gas is emitted by mud pools and geysers.  Here sulphur is deposited on the silica. It is for this reason that Rotorua is often called the Sulphur City or Rotten-rua.

Pohutu Geyser

Pohutu Geyser, Whakarewarewa

Pōhutu Geyser is the second largest in the world, after Old Faithful in Yellowstone NP. Pōhutu means big splash or explosion and it is a wonderful sight.  The geyser erupts approximately hourly to heights of up to 30 m (98 ft).

Geyser and Thermal Pool, Whakarewarewa

Whakarewarewa has ca. 500 hot springs and 65 geyser vents. Seven geysers are currently active. Prince of Wales Feathers Geyser is the closest neighbor of Pohutu Geyser and always precedes it. 

Pohutu Geyser, Whakarewarewa

A progressive decline of geyser outflows started ca. 1970. The use of geothermal bores for heating in Rotorua had affected all geothermal features. The Bore Closure Programme in 1987-88 closed down all bores within a 1.5 km radius around Pohutu Geyser and another 120 wells outside that radius due to the punitive extraction fees. This resulted in a pronounced recovery in thermal activity.

Pohutukawa Trees

As we left Whaka, we passed under Pohutukawa trees. The Maori name means splash of red due to the brilliant red blooms. As these trees flower from November to January, they are often called Christmas trees.

Whakarewarewa Hours and Fees

Hours: 0900 – 1600 hrs.
Fees: Self-Guided NZD 35 Senior $31.50 Child $15
 All Day (Events) Pass NZD 99 Senior $89 Child $45
Website: Whakarewarewa

Geothermal Areas

Red Crater and Ngauruhoe, Tongariro NP

Why are there so many volcanoes in NZ? Some of the well known volcanoes are Tongariro, Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe, Rangitoto, Taranaki, Tarawera, and the Banks Peninsula.

NZ is on the Pacific Ring of Fire where the Indo-Australian Plate is smashing over (subducting) the Pacific Plate. At this plate juncture, magma rises and volcanoes are formed. Earthquakes are another feature of NZ. The last horrific one registered 6.3 in Christchurch 2011.

Rotorua is not the only place with geothermal activity in NZ. Hot Water Beach in the Coromandel, Hanmer Springs in Canterbury, hot springs near the Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers, and Tekapo Springs near Lake Tekapo are some of the better known places. Geysers erupt when underground water is heated above the boiling point and forcefully expelled into the air.

Waimangu Volcanic Valley

Hot Orange Deposits, Waimangu

Waimangu (G4.7) offers a pleasant downhill walk past colourful thermal pools and steaming vents. We walked the whole way so we could see all the sights at our own pace. There is a free shuttle bus between the sights but we took the bus all the way back (uphill) from the end of the trail. The stop numbers below come from the Waimangu Volcanic Valley map.

Waimangu Southern Crater

Southern Crater, Waimangu

Stop 1: The Southern Crater is the southern-most crater of the original Mount Tarawera eruption.

Southern Crater, Waimangu

This is the view of Southern Crater 30 years later.

Frying Pan Lake

Frying Pan Lake, Waimangu

Stop 2: The 4 hectare (10 acre) Frying Pan Lake (G4.6) is the world’s largest hot spring. The lake was formed by a 1917 eruption that buried a nearby hotel.

Frying Pan Lake, Waimangu

There is also the empty crater of Waimangu Geyser, which used to be the world’s highest at an incredible 488 m (yards) high!

Cathedral Rocks, Frying Pan Lake, Waimangu

The boiling lake is guarded by the Cathedral Rocks, the remains of a dome composed of rhyolite lava with steam still escaping. Rhyolite is a rare, silica-rich volcanic rock. Why is that important? For the answer, read on until the end of the hike, Mount Tarawera.

Inferno Crater Lake

Inferno Crater Lake Portrait, Waimangu

Thanks to the colour, Inferno Crater Lake (G4.8) was our favourite place along the hike. However, the cool blue lake is boiling hot at 80 °C (176 °F). Why is the lake a brilliant blue colour. Only the blue spectrum is reflected back off the silica particles suspended in the water.

But the lake is also unique because there is a geyser inside it — at the bottom! This explains why the lake rises to overfilling then recedes as much as 12 m (yards) lower!

Valley Viewpoint

Verdant Valley Viewpoint, Waimangu

ca. Stop 7: There was a wide open view of a verdant valley. The Waimangu Valley was wiped out by the Terawera eruption in 1886. It has been totally re-vegetated by nature. We saw tropical tree ferns that grow here due to the warm and humid micro climate.

Tree ferns date back to 360 million years ago and were decimated along with the dinosaurs by the Cretaceous Mass Extinction Event 65 million years ago. The tree ferns survived in damp, shady habitats in NZ, Tasmania, and South Africa.

Colourful Hot Stream

Hot Purple Stream, Waimangu

>= Stop 9: Continue walking along the outlet hot stream with colourful banks. Minerals percolate out of the water. Colours indicate the minerals deposited: purple is manganese oxide. 

Hot Orange Stream, Waimangu

As the water cools, it deposits minerals that form a palette of yellows (sulphur), oranges (antimony, arsenic), reds (iron oxides), and whites (silica) along the stream.

Warbrick Terrace

Warbrick Terrace, Waimangu

Stop 12: Warbrick Terrace is the last muli-coloured terrace. In the 1890s, Alfred Warbrick was an explorer and guide at Waimangu. He used sandbags to dam the flow of a small hot spring visible at the top, which created this terrace.

Mount Tarawera

Black Swan, Lake Rotomahana, Waimangu

Stop 17: At the end of the walk is a boat ramp for cruises of Lake Rotomahana, where we saw a black swan. This was an introduced species brought from Western Australia in the 19th century.

Lake Rotomahana & Mt Terawera

In the background is a view of Mount Tarawera, though this photo was from a different road. Rhyolitic magma is high in silica and gases, which makes it more viscous. But the high viscosity prevents the gases from being released and resulted in a massive explosion. The 1886 eruption that split the volcano in two was heard as far as Christchurch 677 km (421 mi) away! Lake Rotomahana covers the site of the famed Pink and White Terraces, which was the top thermal wonder of the world.

Waimangu Hours and Directions

Hours: 0830 – 1700 hrs.; last admission 1530 hrs.
Fees: NZD 46 Child $16
Trail: 4.2 km OW, 2.5 hrs; take bus back uphill
Directions: from Rotorua drive south on Hwy 5 for 14 km;
turn east on Waimangu Rd for 6 km
Activities: Lake Rotomahana Boat Cruise
Website: Waimangu Volcanic Valley

Wai-o-tapu Thermal Wonderland

Artist’s Palette, Wai-o-tapu

We loved our day at the pool! Wai-o-tapu (G4.6) is a photographer’s dream with colourful thermal areas and frothing geysers.

Lady Knox Geyser

Lady Knox Geyser, Wai-o-tapu

If you have a car, you will want to visit Lady Knox Geyser (G3.9) located on a separate side road. It is not active except at 10:15 daily. However, it is induced to erupt by dropping a surfactant into the opening of the vent. It may look small but it fires hot water 21m (69 ft) into the air.

Wai-o-tapu Trails

There is one big loop trail divided into three overlapping loops. We would recommend doing all three overlapping loops. The short Red Loop and Orange Loop (colours and stop numbers come from Wai-o-tapu’s own map) are easy and flat until the stairs at the end of the Orange Loop.

Red Loop stop 2: Rainbow Crater is composed of kaolin clay (the pale clay used to make porcelain). It has veins of red (iron oxide) and yellow (sulphur).  Steaming vents opposite the crater are called fumaroles.

Artist’s Palette

Artist’s Palette, Wai-o-tapu

Red Loop stop 5: Artist’s Palette is a 10,000 m² silica terrace covered with yellows (sulphur), reds (iron oxide), and limes. Champagne Pool is in the distance.

Panoramic View

Frying Pan Flat Panoramic View, Wai-o-tapu

Orange Loop Stop 11: This is a panoramic view of Frying Pan Flat, which is strewn with hot springs, fumaroles, and boardwalks.

Champagne Pool

Champagne Pool, Wai-o-tapu

Red Loop stop 21 comes on the way back: Champagne Pool (G4.8) was formed 900 years ago by an eruption, resulting in a crater ca. 62 m (203 ft) deep. The water exits the bottom at 260 °C (500 °F) and “cools” down at the top to 73 °C (163 °F).

Champagne Pool, Wai-o-tapu

The hot spring rises full of carbon dioxide gas, which bubbles at the surface just like a flute of bubbling champagne. Other gases released include methane (CH₄) and hydrogen sulphide (H₂S). When we first stopped there was so much mist I could not take any photos.

Champagne Pool Edge, Wai-o-tapu

The colourful deposits along the edge are in sharp contrast to the grey-white silica sinter surrounding Champagne Pool.  Contrary to one web site, the orange rim is not algae. The bright orange comes from arsenic and antimony. The arsenic is found in the mineral orpiment (As₂S₃). Don’t even think about touching this pool!

Arsenic-Antimony Deposits, Champagne Pool, Wai-o-tapu

Arsenic is a key component of poisons, pesticides, car batteries, and gallium arsenide semiconductors. Antimony stibnite (Sb₂S₃) is used in lead and tin alloys for bullets, bearings, and semiconductor devices. It was also used to make an eyeliner (kohl) as far back as predynastic Egypt, ca. 3100 BC. The ultra-black kohl eyeliner is still used in the Middle East and South Asia but is banned in the West due to its high lead content.

Devil’s Bath

Devil’s Bath, Wai-o-tapu

Red Loop stop 25: Devil’s Bath is a surreal lime colour.

Devil’s Bath Close-up, Wai-o-tapu

The bath colour varies according to amount of water that seeps in from Champagne Pool mixing with sulphur (yellow) and iron (red) deposits.

Wai-o-tapu Hours and Directions

Hours: 0830 – 1630 hrs; last admission 1500 hrs
Fees: Adult NZD 45Child $15
Directions: drive south on Hwy 5 for 27 km; turn east towards Waiotapu Tavern; turn left for 2 km
Trails: Red Loop (1.5 km 30 mins RT), Orange Loop (2 km 40 mins RT), and Yellow (3 km 75 mins RT) loops
Visit Time: 2 hrs — actual time will be much longer if you spent a lot of time admiring or photographing the sights
Website: Wai-o-tapu Thermal Wonderland

Orakei Korako

Orakei Korako (G4.7) is a highly active geothermal area most notable for its series of fault-stepped sinter terraces. On our first trip to NZ, we hitchhiked the 21 km side road and did the walk with a Samoan-Kiwi family. I don’t even remember seeing other tourists here, though it was late May (autumn).

Lake Ohakuri from Emerald Terrace, Orakei Korako

It requires a boat ride across the lake then a loop trail through the geothermal area. The lowest terrace at Orakei Korako is the jade-green Emerald Terrace, the largest of its kind in New Zealand.

Emerald Terrace, Orakei Korako

Greens, oranges, yellows and browns colour the Rainbow Terrace and Cascade Terrace.

Golden Fleece Terrace

Golden Fleece Terrace, Orakei Korako

The third and largest great fault scarp in the valley is called the Golden Fleece Terrace. It is not golden except for mineral flows below the terrace.

Golden Fleece, Orakei Korako

The Māori name Te Kapua (“The Cloud”) is a much better description. However, we feel it should be named the Sheep Fleece, since that’s what it looks like to us.

Plant growing in Golden Fleece, Orakei Korako

The terrace is massive compared to the closeup photos displayed — it is 5 m (yards) high by 40 m (yards) wide. The white colour means it is silica. In fact, it is the largest silica terrace in the world.

Above this terrace is the Artist’s Palette, a 10,000 m² silica sinter terrace covered with clear blue alkali chloride pools. On the way back we passed Elephant Rock and the Soda Fountain.

Orakei Korako Hours and Directions

Hours: 0800 – 1600 hrs; last boat returns at 1600 hrs.
Fees: NZD 47; Child $21
Directions: drive south on Hwy 5 almost to Taupo; turn west on Tutukau Rd for 16 km; turn right onto Orakei Korako Rd for 5 km to the end of the road
Trail: 1.9 km loop; 28 mins.
Visit Time: 2.5 hrs.
Website: Orakei Korako Thermal Park

Rotorua City

There are many activities to do in tourist trap Rotorua. But did you come all this way to do things you could do at home? Alternatively, you can tour the Whakarewarewa Forest or drive around the lakes.

Maori Hangi and Concert

On our first trip to NZ, we went to hangi at one of the hotels. We were stuffed with steam-cooked lamb, wild pig, chicken, tumara, pumpkin, venison stew, tender eel and Maori bread. The concert following the meal featured beautiful soprano voices and poi dances. Two Scottish women were brought onto the stage to participate!  The Maori women touched noses with each of them. Then four Maori men surrounded them and did a haka that frightened the daylights out of them. Traditionally, haka is a customary way to welcome visitors, but it also served to show physical prowess.

Rotorua Buildings

Meeting House with Car

There were only a couple of town buildings that begged to be photographed. The most interesting buildings are the Maori meeting houses with their richly carved posts. Rotorua houses come with steam and sulphurous smells.

Rotorua Museum of Art and History

The Rotorua Museum of Art and History (G4.3) is one of the most beautiful buildings in Rotorua. The surrounding Government Gardens provide wide open views of the ornate building.

Rotorua Museum of Art and History Close-up

The Tudor-style building was constructed in 1908 for the Great Spa of the South Pacific.

Prince’s Gate Hotel, Rotorua

Prince’s Gate Hotel (G4.0) is an attractive building with a more amazing history. It was built in Waihi in 1897, a gold rush mining town 120 km to the north. During the 1919 Flu Pandemic it served as a hospital. In 1920, the hotel was disassembled and transported to Rotorua where it was reconstructed. From here you can walk to Kuirau Park (G4.5), which has a public thermal area.

Rainbow Springs

Another place to visit used to be Rainbow Springs (G4.3). It is named for the rainbow trout swimming in the spring, which discharges 4.5 million litres (400 million gallons) of water per day!  It is just mind boggling. It was a pleasant walk if not a must see.

Barbary Dove

Barbary Dove, Rainbow Springs

We saw a very tame Barbary Dove which posed along the fence banister for us. We could easily have touched it. Yes, we were that close though I did crop the 50 mm lens photo a little bit.

It is an “escape” from birds imported from Northern Africa.  Our third visit to NZ was also a birding trip for our son. There are lots of interesting endemic and flightless birds in NZ, another reason to visit. 

Kea

Kea, Hollyford Valley Lookout

An inquisitive Kea (endemic parrot) bounced around trying to grab a piece of our backpack or other “toy”. This is my favourite NZ bird. Yes, we were that close – I used an 86 mm focal length. 

However, we just read that this nature park will be closed. Fortunately, there are many other places in NZ to see a kea. In fact, this photo was taken in Fiordland NP.

Agrodome

At the Agrodome (G4.5) we saw demonstrations of sheep dogs and sheep shearing featuring 19 different species of sheep. This is worth doing to gain a better understanding of one of NZ’s major industries. NZ has 5 million people and 25 million sheep! We used to tease our Kiwi friends about giving sheep the vote.

Sometimes Kiwi English seems like another language. Kiwis use a lot of cute expressions, some related to sheep. Our favourite was “be a dag and drop off”, which translates as get lost. Dag is the sheep poo that hangs onto the wool near the bum.

Sheep Shearing, Pitts-Brown Farm

On our first trip to NZ, we stayed at the Pitts-Brown sheep farm in the Waitomo area. One thing we learned is that sheep are pretty intelligent and knew right away we wanted to shear them. The sheep dog did a superb job of getting the sheep to the shearing area. Our host above made it look easy. I had a go at shearing two sheep. It was not an easy task. The sheep knew right away I was a newbie. Sheep are heavy and you have to hold them firmly with only your legs as you need your hands for shearing.

Agrodome Hours and Directions

Hours: 0900 – 1700 hrs; last boat returns at 1600 hrs.
Fees: NZD 49; Child $25
Directions: 141 Western Road, Ngongotahā: from Whakarewarewa drive north for 13 km on Hwy 5 just past Hwy 36 junction
Shows: 9:30 11:00 14:30
Farm Tours: 10:40 12:10 13:30 15:40
Website: Agrodome

Huka Falls

Waikato Rover Gorge

The beautiful green Waikato River is forced through a canal like gorge.

Huka Falls

Then the water tumbles down the frothy, thundering Huka Falls (G4.8).

Huka Falls, Waikato Rover

There were a couple of viewpoints on both sides of the gorge that are worth finding.

Nearby is the Huka Honey Hive (G4.5), where you can taste and buy the unique honeys produced in NZ. It not the bees that are different. It is the unique native flora like pohutukawa and manuka that give the unusual flavours to Kiwi honey.

Wairakei Thermal Station shows how geothermal steam can be used to generate power but you will mainly see a field of silvery pipes.

Huka Falls Hours and Directions

Car Park Hours: 0800 – 1800 hrs? but falls are open all day
Directions: 73 km 55 min. from Rotorua drive south on Hwy 5, cross over Hwy 1 onto Wairakei Drive to Huka Falls Lookout. Footbridge to the east bank is just south of the falls near 2nd parking lot. Huka Falls is just north of Lake Taupo.

Craters of the Moon

Steaming Hills, Craters of the Moon Thermal Area

Craters of the Moon (G4.2) does not offer spectacular thermal pools. But if you are a budget traveller or backpacker, it is a less expensive thermal area. We walked 2 km from the parking lot on pleasant dirt road. It is dangerous to walk off the track. A girl died here. A truck parked in the wrong place disappeared when the “solid ground” suddenly became a mud pool.

The first pool with vigorous boiling mud was the most dramatic. Also amazing was the algae, cushion moss and low lying variant of kanuka trees that can withstand the hot steamy environment. The track climbed a hill that gave a view of the thermal area with Taupo and Tongariro volcanoes in the background. It looked like the hill was on fire. The track is supposed to take 38 minutes but we spent two hours here.

Craters of the Moon Hours and Directions

Hours: 0930 – 1700 hrs; last admission at 1600 hrs.
Fees: NZD 10; Child $5
Directions: 171 Karapiti Road, Wairakei Park: from Rotorua drive 73 km south to Huka Falls Road but turn west onto Karapiti Road
Shows: 9:30 11:00 14:30
Farm Tours: 10:40 12:10 13:30 15:40
Website: Craters of the Moon

Te Ponanga Saddle Viewpoint

Lake Taupo fromTe Ponanga Saddle Viewpoint

While not hidden, Te Ponanga (G4.6) is a great viewpoint you could easily drive by. It is 68 km (one hour) south of Huka Falls at the beginning of Highway 47, the road to Tongariro NP.

You may not be so impressed with the view until you learn the significance of what you are seeing. Lake Taupo has an area of 616 km² (238 sq mi). This is larger than Phoenix AZ or San Antonio TX and a bit smaller than Edmonton AB.

While Taupo looks like a lake, it is hard to believe this is the flooded caldera of a supervolcano. That means it had an eruption with a Volcanic Explosivity Index (VEI) of 8. You would not have wanted to been here ca. 26,500 years ago when it spewed out over 1000 cubic kilometers (240 cubic miles) of debris. The is the world’s most recent VEI-8 eruption.

Frequently Asked Questions

Abbreviations

Kiwi = New Zealander, or a nocturnal flightless bird
NP = National Park
NZ= New Zealand; NZD = New Zealand Dollar
OW = One Way

Getting to Rotorua

Most international travellers will fly into Auckland. Even when we flew from Wellington or Christchurch, we had to transfer in Auckland.  There are only a couple of ANZ flights to Rotorua daily.

The easiest way is to get to Rotorua is to rent a car and drive 230 km. Alternatively, one can go by bus.

Getting Around Rotorua

When we were backpacking, we walked or hitchhiked to the various sights. Rotorua city buses cost $2.80 for cash fares and there is also a fare card for longer visits. The best and most flexible way to get to all the sights is a rental car.

There is a “shuttle bus” service, which means only one departure per day per bus company to either Waimangu or Wai-o-tapu departing Rotorua Visitor Centre at 1167 Fenton Street. There is a fixed return fare for the bus including the park entry fee. This means you can only see one thermal area per day.

• Thomque Ventures departs the Rotorua Visitor Centre at 0900 hrs and departs Waimangu at 1330 hrs. NZD 109
• Thomque Ventures departs the Rotorua Visitor Centre at 0900 hrs and departs Wai-o-tapu at 1330 hrs. NZD 199
• Thermal Land Shuttle departs the Rotorua Visitor Centre at 0815 hrs and departs Wai-o-tapu at 1300 and 1645 hrs.

In other words, the more people in your group, the more economical it is to rent a car.

Where to Stay in Rotorua?

We do not have any affiliate links and we are not recommending specific places. The alternative types of accommodation are hotels, youth hostels, B&Bs, campsites, and cabins at campgrounds. The latter is an excellent and better value than a hotel room.

Search for possible accommodation via our NZ Rotorua-Tongariro Region Map. Every hotel has a Google Map rating. Any rating ≥ 4.0 is considered very good; ≥ 4.4 is considered excellent. This same technique can be used to choose restaurants.

Instead or relocating each day, Rotorua could be used as a base to explore the surrounding countryside, as shown on our NZ Rotorua-Tongariro Region Map. Nearby areas include Waitomo Caves and Taumarunui.

What is the Best Time to Visit Rotorua?

What is the best month to visit Rotorua? Many sources say that the best time to visit New Zealand is during the summer months of December to March. Really, you can visit North Island any time of the year though you may find winter (June to August) to be too cool and wet. It’s balmy compared to the frigid cold temperatures of the Great North.

Here is a temperature chart of the average minimum and maximum temperatures for the three winter months (June-August in NZ).

Place, Country	Min Temp	Max Temp
Auckland, NZ NI	8.2 °C 46.8 °F	15.2 °C 59.4 °F
Rotorua, NZ NI	8.3 °C 46.9 °F	14.3 °C 57.7 °F
Tongariro NP, NZ NI	2.0 °C  35.6 °F	9.0 °C 48.2 °F
Ottawa, CA	-14.4 °C 6.1 °F	-3.2 °C 26.2 °F

The rest of the year is perfectly warm in Rotorua with an average high of 23 °C (73 °F) in the summer and 17 °C (63 °F) in the spring and fall. The highest sunshine is from October to March.

June to September are the rainiest months with between 13.7 to 16.9 rain days per month. The rainiest months are April (176 mm 6.9 in), May (163 mm 6.4 in), June (188 mm 7.4 in) and August (168 mm 6.6 in). 

Emerald Lake, Alpine Crossing Track, Tongariro NP

By contrast, the alpine area of Tongariro NP should be avoided from May to October. On our first trip to NZ, we did the three-day Tongariro Alpine Crossing in late May. It was gloriously sunny but freezing cold in the morning — especially since we brought no winter clothing on our three-year Round The World trip.

How much Time Do You Need?

You can drive through this area in three days. You need much more time to enjoy the scenery, visit thermal areas, and go hiking.

What are the Must Sees of NZ?

Which part of NZ is most beautiful? This is a difficult if not impossible question to answer as all of NZ is beautiful. This is not a flippant comment. One quintessential feature of NZ is that the journey from point A to point B is just as spectacular as the destination. Enjoy the trip and look for photo opportunities wherever you drive.

So far we have identified the top two sights any itinerary to NZ must include. The Rotorua Region in North Island is the first place we visited in NZ. The Southern Alps (Aoraki area) in South Island offers the best alpine scenery in NZ. These two should be on your New Zealand bucket list. If you want to see Quintessential New Zealand, we would use these two areas as the foundation for any itinerary you would plan.

Is Switzerland More Beautiful than NZ?

The wide open views of NZ and sheep grazing meadows (called “alps” by the Swiss) are similar to the feeling you get travelling Switzerland. But can you really say that Switzerland is the most beautiful country?

What to Read About New Zealand

Lonely Planet New Zealand — their website

New Zealand, Lonely Planet — the book, but nowadays most people use the internet

Maori Tattoo: The Definitive Guide to Ta Moko, Zealand Tattoo

Tā moko, Pure New Zealand Tourism

AA Maps — If you like paper maps or as backup to your cell phone app, get excellent detailed regional and city maps at an AA office, if you are a CAA or AAA member.

Other Posts You May Like

The following posts are the best places to visit in NZ:

New Zealand – you Must Experience these Breathtaking Lakes and Astounding Alps

• Lake Wakatipu and Routeburn Track
• Fiordland and Milford Sound

Is Switzerland More Beautiful than Canada, USA or NZ?

Custom Maps and Facts to Plan your Itinerary

NZ Rotorua-Tongariro Region Map

New Zealand FAQ

This post answers questions such as:

• What time of year is best to visit New Zealand?
• Should I visit North Island or South Island?
• Do you need a car to explore New Zealand?
• Where are the best hiking trails?
• How do I plan an itinerary for New Zealand?
• How many days are enough for New Zealand?
• Which parts of New Zealand should I visit?
• What does this Kiwi word or expression mean? 

Bangkok – Become a Local Walk 4

Author & Photographer: George Mitchell

George’s Bio

Our recommendations are not influenced by affiliate links – we have none. Our content and advice is derived from our personal experience and knowledge based on spending five months in Thailand as well as travelling three-years Round-The-World.

Why You Should Do the “Become a Local” Walk

The Boys in Bangkok

What are the best places to see local people and experience Thai Buddhist culture? This walk avoids the places most people go to based on name recognition. This post focuses on the best places to see everyday life, learn about Thai traditional culture, and shop for authentic arts and crafts.

The Best Places to See in Bangkok

The best places to see in Bangkok are described in four posts. Your four day itinerary should include:

• Day 1 – you should Not Miss Wat Phra Kaew.
• Day 2 – you should see the Bangkok National Museum, Wat Pho, and Wat Arun. 
• Day 3 – you should see the Less Visited Gems overlooked by most tourists.
• Day 4 – (this post) you could see Erawan Shrine, Jim Thompson House, Suan Pakkad, Ice Cream, Thai Craft Shopping, Lumphini Park, Queen Sirikit Park, Chatuchak Weekend Market, and a Floating Market. 

As some people may only allow four days for Bangkok, I have listed all the remaining sights in the fourth post. However, this could easily take two or more days, especially if you like to spend a lot of time shopping. 

Bangkok Map

All points of interest in this post can be found on our custom Bangkok Google map and are suffixed by their Google Rating (G0 to G5). Anything rated >= 4.0 is very good; >= 4.4 is excellent. 

The points of interest for this post are in the Day 4 Layer (you can show/hide the other layers by clicking each check box on and off).

Lumphini Park

Hairdressing Instructor, Lumphini Park

On our first trip, we found Lumphini Park (G4.5) to be disappointing due the lack of interesting vegetation. It was a great place to see average people. Women carried pots of food hanging from a plank resting on their neck. Corinne had noodles with bean sprouts. There were all kinds of open air classes on sewing, macrame, et al.

Corinne and Hairdresser, Lumphini Park

Then everything changed. A pretty, petite woman saw Corinne’s long blond hair. The hairdressing instructor asked if Corinne would be a subject for her hairdressing class. She was teaching her students to do French braids.

Happy Hairdressing Client, Lumphini Park

Corinne loved the end result. She said it was a good style for hot climates.

Getting to Erawan Shrine and Other Sights

Bangkok Traffic, Ploen Chit Road

Generally in Bangkok, we walk to our next destination if it is close enough. The traffic is horrendous so we shunned tuktuks in central Bangkok. To avoid long walks, we used to take the air-con buses — they cost more but were less crowded. For places that are near a rail station, we use the Skytrain or MRT subway. Erawan is one of those places, located right below the Skytrain.

Erawan Shrine

On the way to Jim Thompson House, stop at the Erawan Shrine (G4.6) covered in the Bangkok — Less Visited Gems post. This gives you an extra chance to see interesting things and fascinating people.

Fruits and Flowers, Erawan Shrine

People were buying marigolds, lighting incense, or offering fruits. Why are there so many marigolds? Marigolds have been part of Indian culture for centuries. These bright flowers are associated with Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth and prosperity. Lakshmi is the consort of Vishnu.

Phra Phrom Statue, Erawan Shrine

Indian ceremonies and culture were adopted during the Indianization of SE Asia period. Marigold garlands are commonly seen in temples and houses. The saffron colour of marigolds represents courage and sacrifice.

While it is easy to notice the mirror like glass mosaic pavilion, take a closer look at the details around you. Phra Phrom has four faces representing the four directions. Each face also represents a different aspect of life that you can pray for better luck: work, romance, money and health/family. Mala (prayer beads) symbolize time as well as ward off evil. The vertical multi-coloured Sruva (ladle), which looks like a sceptre, is used to offer ghee to the sacrificial fire. The water pot symbolizes purity and cleanliness.

Erawan Shrine Traditional Dancing

Drums and Xylophones, Erawan Shrine

The best reason to visit Erawan Shrine again is that you do not know when someone will pay for a ceremony that includes traditional Thai dancers and musicians. The graceful classical dancers perform in bare feet.

Classical Dancer, Erawan Shrine

Thai culture adopted Hindu marriage and ordination ceremonies, dancing and literature. The shrine often features performances by Thai dance troupes who are hired by worshippers in return for seeing their prayers answered at the shrine.

Erawan Shrine Address and Hours

Address: 494 Thanon Ratchadamri, corner of Phloen Chit Rd
Open: 0800 to 1700 hrs. ??
Entry Fee: Free
Directions: Walk from Lumphini Park, 2 km north to Ratchadamri

Jim Thompson House

Indian Lotus Flowers, Jim Thompson House

While Jim Thompson House (G4.4) is well known, there were not that many visitors. Tour groups are not allowed. While it is a bit expensive, the entry does include a guided tour. We went on them twice as they were very good. It was here that we learned that the spirit house must be built first before the house and that the house must never cast a shadow on the spirit house.

Lanna Houses, Jim Thompson House

Six original teak houses were moved here and joined by a boardwalk. Jim Thompson was an architect and he designed his own property. The houses were primarily moved from the Ayutthaya area. He followed Thai traditions such as not painting the teak walls. However, to protect the teak wood, he painted the exterior with dull red creosote, which was introduced from England.

Indian Lotus Flowers, Jim Thompson House

Outside is a lush garden of various plants and trees to simulate a Thai jungle. The grounds have a shop and a restaurant as well as a garden. I believe you can roam around at no cost and without a guide.

Jim Thompson Silk

Silk Process Poster, Jim Thompson House

Thompson was a pre-CIA spy during World War II. After the war, he returned to Thailand and revived the Thai silk industry. The House does frequent presentations and has some posters explaining the silk process.

Silk Worms, Jim Thompson House

First they showed us trays of silk worms feeding on mulberry leaves. They only live 20 to 25 days in this form. Larvae keep chomping on leaves and grow nearly 10,000 times larger within a few weeks! They are filled with liquid silk from digested mulberry leaves. They excrete these liquid proteins that resemble hair and build their cocoons in 2 to 3 days.

Silk Cocoons, Jim Thompson House

Here they showed us what silk cocoons looked like. They transform in ca. 14 days to moths to lay eggs to create future silk worms. 

Silk in Warm Water, Jim Thompson House

A man placed the cocoons in warm water to remove the gum coating and loosen them. The trick is to find the end of the thread and unravel the silk filament onto a spindle (called reeling). The thread is then cleaned and bleached to purify it.

According to Chinese tradition, Empress Léi Zǔ discovered sericulture in the 27th century BC. It was kept secret for centuries by the Chinese and was the original cause for the Silk Trade Routes. It takes 8750 cocoons to make one kg of silk!  Today, six to eight cocoons are unravelled simultaneously so the threads are intertwined for greater strength.

Traditional Dancer, Jim Thompson House

A solo dancer did a traditional dance but wore a Thompson silk dress rather than the ornate costumes at the Erawan Shrine. One kg of silk can produce 14 metres (yards) of lightweight silk!

Traditional Dancer, Jim Thompson House

Jim Thompson provided the silk for all the costumes used in the 1951 movie production of The King & I. This introduced Thai silk to world markets.

Jim Thompson Art and Antiques

Living Room, Jim Thompson House

Thompson made a fortune and began collecting art and antiques. It is well worth exploring his collection. His six houses were opened to the public after Thompson disappeared mysteriously in the famous Cameron Highlands in Malaysia.

Everything has been kept as Thompson left it. However, Thompson built the house as if it was a museum providing backlit alcoves to display special sculptures. The most photogenic artifacts were placed in backlit niches. The former antique collector had a good sense of beauty.

Apsara Statues, Jim Thompson House

However, the low light was challenging for my camera in that era. This seems to be a small sculpture of two kinnaris. They are part human and part bird, and have a strong association with music and love. The kinnaris dwell in the Himavamsa Forest according to Hindu and Buddhist mythology.

Standing Buddha, Jim Thompson House

The so-called Standing Buddha is a Tai creation and did not exist in India as a canonical type.

Prince Vessantara & Family Reunites with King Sanjaya, Jim Thompson House

We bought prints of the paintings in the Chandler Room. These paintings were usually done by anonymous priest-painters to make merit. They were made to inspire parishioners. Most are mid-19th century paintings of the Jataka stories of previous incarnations of the Buddha.

One of the most popular stories is about Prince Vessantara, who was banishing my his meddling step-mother. He is shown in this painting reuniting with his father, King Sanjaya, and family. No facial expressions are used in this art. It depicts them weeping with joy at being reunited by the use of the symbolic gesture of the right hand curved over the eye. Note, the elegant frame of leaves and flowers that surrounds the painting.

Carved Wood Door, Jim Thompson House

This beautiful carved wood door is assumed to be Manjushri (an incarnation of Buddha). In one hand, he carries a vajra (thunderbolt) sword, which cuts through ignorance and discrimination. In the other hand, he holds a lotus bloom. 

Dining Room, Jim Thompson House

Mah Jong tables that originally belonged to King Rama V are used as dining tables! They are set with beautiful blue and white Chinese porcelain from the Ming Dynasty (13th to 17th C). Some items were found in the river that came from sunken boats!

Chinese Blue and White Porcelain, Jim Thompson House

Jim Thompson also loved Chinese blue and white porcelain, especially from the Yuan period (1271-1368). This Mongolian-led dynasty was responsible for maintaining the peace and supporting trade along the Silk Routes. This was the era of Marco Polo.

Carved Wood Lintel, Jim Thompson House

The door lintel holds a beautifully carved board with fish. 

Mother of Pearl and Silverware Boxes, Jim Thompson House

One narrow room was filled solely with Thai Benjarong ware, which is painted with five colours of enamel, fired one colour at a time. In the bedroom were beautiful mother of pearl inlay and silverware boxes. Everything was given some space so it did not feel cluttered.

Klong Maha Nag

The only noise and smell is the occasional boat going down the Klong (canal) Maha Nag. Across the klong, people still make silk. Definitely walk many klong in Bangkok. It gives you a glimpse of what Krung Thep used to look like.  These were the main streets of ancient times.

Jim Thompson House Address and Hours

Address: 6 Soi Kasemsan 2
Open: 1000 to 1800 hrs. but last guided tour starts at 1700 hrs. Tours are provided in English, French, Japanese, Chinese and Thai.
Entry Fee: BHT 200
Directions: Take Sky Train to National Stadium station exit #1
Websites: Jim Thompson House
Jim Thompson House Art Collection post shows many photos of the beautiful artifacts in the house

Suan Pakkad Palace

Suan Pakkad Palace Gardens

Suan Pakkad (G4.5) means cabbage patch, the original purpose of this plot of land. It consists of a set of traditional Thai houses brought here in 1952 by Prince Chumbhot. It was turned into a museum after his death. The elegant gardens provide a peaceful setting.

Gardens viewed from Suan Pakkad Palace

Suan Pakkad Ban Chiang Pottery

The ground floor is open and the house is actually on the second floor. Houses were built on stilts to avoid flooding. The houses are linked by bridges.

Ban Chiang Cup, Suan Pakkad Palace

House #8 has a collection of pottery and necklaces from prehistoric Ban Chiang. The pottery has distinctive red motifs on a buff background.

Ban Chiang Vase, Suan Pakkad Palace

The Ban Chiang archaeological site dates from 1500 to 900 BC. This pottery is older than Ancient Greece. 

Celadon Plates, Suan Pakkad Palace

Celadon is pale green-glazed pottery that originated in China. The green tone is imparted by adding iron oxide. Tiny cracks is a feature of this stoneware. The Celadon name originates from a seventeenth century French novel.

Khon Drama Mask, Suan Pakkad Palace

This Khon mask is green with human features and a conical crown of royalty, so it represents a hero like Rama. Rama is a human avatar of the Hindu god Vishnu, the Preserver.

Suan Pakkad Lacquer Pavilion

Gold Screen and End Table, Suan Pakkad Palace

The Lacquer Pavilion was the most exciting place in the museum. This unique building preserves 12 gold on black lacquerware mural paintings. The Lacquer Pavilion was found in a small riverside village ca. 10 km south of Ayutthaya. It was assumed that the building dated back to the Ayutthaya Period because of the use of a pointed arch in the windows and the inclusion of three figures in seventeenth century French costumes typical of the reign of King Narai (1656–1688).

However, recent research has challenged this theory. The Lacquer Pavilion features gold-leaf Jataka scenes in the upper level and Ramakien in the lower level. The clincher is that the episodes of the Ramakien are from the version composed by King Rama I in 1785. This means the pavilion dates to late eighteenth century.¹

¹ The Lacquer Pavilion in its First Reign Context, Patricia M. Young, Journal of the Siam Society 2004

Suan Pakkad Lanna Artifacts

Lanna Clothing Dyes, Suan Pakkad Palace

Lanna are the tribal people that formed an ancient kingdom in the Chiang Mai area. Lanna women kept their cloth dye formulas a secret. They were extracted from bark, roots, seeds and flowers shown in bottom left tray. The saffron coloured monks robes were made from jackfruit. Red dyes came from the resin of the lac insect. Tamarind juice, bark ash, and dung were used to fix the dyes!

Baisri Offerings, Suan Pakkad Palace

Lanna believe there are 32 spirits or khwan that affect one’s health. Imbalance in one’s body implies that the good spirits went away. The baisri offering of sticky rice (khao niao), fruits, and eggs is used to call back the spirits. It is decorated with banana leaves and beautiful red flowers. It is a work of art.

Private Family Space Talisman, Suan Pakkad Palace

The carved Ham Yon (literally meaning testicles magic diagram) plaque hangs over the bedroom door. It is a talisman of the ancestral spirits. Those of a “different spirit” (clan) must ask the ancestors for permission to enter these private rooms. It is replaced every time the male head of the house changes.

Lanna Courtship, Suan Pakkad Palace

Every evening, the daughter of the house would sit on the verandah and receive male suitors. The young men would sing love songs on a pin-pia instrument. Courtship etiquette was strict and no physical contact was allowed. To express affection, the girl would offer cigars, pickled tea, areca nuts, and betel leaves. The trays are actually Burmese or hill tribe-style red lacquerware. 

Betel nut is the seed of the fruit of the areca palm. Betel nut is a stimulant drug, which means it speeds up the messages travelling between the brain and the body. Betel nut chewing is an important cultural practice. Mouth ulcers and gum disease, heart disease, and cancer. It stains the teeth red. 

Traditional Dancers, Suan Pakkad Palace

Perhaps the best Thai traditional dancers we ever saw was at the Suan Pakkad Palace. Both the men and women dancers are very pretty with feminine features. They do not mention offering dancers on their web site.

Suan Pakkad Palace Address and Hours

Address: 328/1 Soi Si Ayutthaya 3
Open: 0900 to 1600 hrs.
Entry Fee: THB 100
Directions: take sky train to Phayathai Station and walk 5 minutes
Website: The Suan Pakkad Palace

Ice Cream

On our first two trips to Bangkok, we would often go for ice cream to cool down. Our go-to place Foremost (Phloen Chit) seems to have disappeared. I have listed ice cream places recommended by other web sites on the Bangkok Map, but we haven’t been to them. However, the Google Map ratings were very high. What we do recommend is to try flavours unique to Thailand, such as tangerine tango and jackfruit.

Thai Craft Shopping

If you want to but a Thai souvenir avoid touristy goods made in other countries.  Instead buy the best arts and crafts that are made in Thailand. Generally, these are made by the Hill Tribes. 

Stalls at Wats

You need to know the value of various crafts before you buy at a stall. It is best to explore some of the craft stores with fixed and reasonable prices to learn the values of the different crafts. 

Graceful Classical Dancers, Thai Temple Rubbing

The graceful movements of Thai classical dance are shown in this temple rubbing we purchased on our first trip to Thailand. The dances are derived from Hindu literature about apsaras and the Ramayana. 

Naraiphand Store

Thai Traditional Dancers, Gold on Black Lacquerware Plate

We went frequently to Naraiphand Handicrafts where we bought so many of our Thai crafts, most of them made by the Hill Tribes. The prices were the same as in Chiang Mai. Our best buy was the ten inch gold inlay on black lacquerware plates, BHT 215 (USD 6), today worth over USD 100!

Tiny Teak Elephant Statue

We also bought a teak salad bowl set and a mini-elephant statue, silk ties, Hill tribe purses and throw pillow cases, etc.

Naraiphand Handicrafts Address and Hours

Address: 973 Ploenchit Road, President Tower
Open : 1000 – 2000 hrs
Website : https://www.myguidebangkok.com/shopping/narai-phand

Thai Royal Barge, Eggshell on Black Lacquerware Plate

We were also able to go to a Hill Tribe Sale at the International School. Here we bought the very unique eggshell inlay on lacquerware plates and boxes made by the lepers from the McKean Rehabilitation Center in Chiang Mai. These inlay plates were made by lepers!

Thai Tribal Crafts

Karen Vest

Many of our crafts were bought at the Thai Tribal Crafts shop in Chiang Mai. Here we bought Karen vests, Ahka beaded aprons, Meo and Karen pillow cases….

Queen Sirikit Park

Queen Sirikit Park (G4.5) is a botanical garden built to celebrate the 60th birthday of Queen Sirikit (1992). It is part of the larger Chatuchak Park complex and next door to the weekend market.

Chatuchak Weekend Market

Main Street, Chatuchak Weekend Market

Chatuchak Weekend Market (G4.4) has more than 15,000 stalls selling every imaginable product. There will be lots of Thai people – over 200,000 people come here each weekend!

We were amazed by the area selling all kinds of pets — dogs, rabbits, fish, birds… Another area sells trinkets, toiletries, and clothes.

Popsicle Vendor, Chatuchak Weekend Market

This amazingly market consists of pedestrian-only streets and shops. It is a great people photography spot, such as this cute popsicle vendor. 

Food Shack, Chatuchak Weekend Market

We focused on walking the food section. Be sure to try jackfruit, mangosteens, rambutans, and lychees — if they are in season.

Juice Vendor, Chatuchak Weekend Market

Fruit drinks, smoothies, and special teas are specialties of Thailand.

Restaurants, Chatuchak Weekend Market

You can get well fed and enjoy the people of all ages.

Chatuchak Market Address and Hours

Directions: take sky train to (N8) Mo Chit Station and take exit #1 or take the NRT train (BHT 40).
Website: https://www.chatuchakmarket.org/

Damnoen Saduak Floating Market

Vendor and Child, Damnoen Saduak Floating Market

Damnoen Saduak (G3.8) is a famous floating market located near the city of Ratchaburi, 80 km from Bangkok. It is open daily from 0600 to 1100 hrs. So we left our place in Bangkok at 0530 hrs. While there, we met Ludo Kuipers, a Dutch teacher working at a hill tribe reserve. He has travelled extensively but prefers meeting people to visiting ruins.

Vegetable Vendors, Damnoen Saduak Floating Market

We walked along the canal on boards on stilts that sagged under our weight. Finally we came to the main floating market. The narrow long canal was filled with women paddling canoe-like boats selling watermelons, guava, bananas, fish, hats…

Snack Vendor, Damnoen Saduak Floating Market

We walked along a shed to a road bridge and crossed over to the other side. We bought coffee, tea, and a very filling, tasty soup from the food vending boats.

We had plenty of boat cafes to feed us. It was exciting and colourful.

Keeping the Boys Busy, Damnoen Saduak Floating Market

There was a good place to sit down to watch people and take photos. The young children in the boats were very cute! This mother knew how to keep her young boys quiet. 

Surprised Girl in Boat, Damnoen Saduak Floating Market

This photo of the surprised young girl in a boat helped me win first prize at the Edmonton International Film Festival, which had a focus on the developing world. 

Getting to Damnoen Saduak

We only went to Damnoen Saduak decades ago on our first trip to Thailand. We did not go on a guided tour. We commuted from Bangkok using local buses. We took a bus to the South Bus terminal then a two hour bus to the road junction for Damnoen Saduak and then a tuk tuk. We have heard that tuk tuk drivers try to scam tourists here. We caught a bus back to Krung Thep that only took one hour.

Better Floating Markets

Since that trip, we have read that Damnoen Saduak has been spoiled by all the guided tours with price gouging and loss of authenticity. We found out that there are several floating markets with much higher Google Map ratings in other localities that are off the beaten track.

• Amphawa (G4.6): 90 km (55 mi); Fri-Sun 1100-2130 hrs; Thai food, wooden houses, temples
• Bang Nam Phueng (G4.5): 21 km (13 mi); Sat-Sun; small floating market but great food; natural setting
• Khlong Lat Mayom (G4.3): 21 km (13 mi); Sat-Sun 0700-1700 hrs; a quieter and more authentic floating market, with fresh produce and local delicacies.
• Taling Chan (G4.2): 12 km (7 mi); Sat-Sun 0800-1600 hrs, combining both a more authentic floating market and a land market, with seafood and handicrafts, temples.

Moreover Damnoen Saduak is now rated lower (G3.8) than these other markets. Moreover, the more tourists there are, the higher the prices and the more of a tourist trap. 

Other Posts You May Like

Here are the other posts for visiting Bangkok.

Bangkok Day 1

Bangkok — Do not Miss Wat Phra Kaew

Bangkok Day 2

Bangkok — Are Wat Pho, Wat Arun and the National Museum Worth Visiting?

Bangkok Day 3

Bangkok – Less Visited Gems Walk 3

Custom Maps and Facts to Plan your Itinerary

TH is the ISO Country Code for Thailand.
THB is the ISO Currency Code for Thai Bahts.
THB 100 = CAD 3.86, EUR 2.59, GBP 2.25, USD 2.83

Bangkok Google map

When is the Best Time to Visit?

Based on average maximum temperatures from NOAA:

Month	Season	Max Temp	Rain Days
Nov-Feb	Cool	30 to 33°C	Nov = 4
Mar-May	Hot	34 to 35°C	5 to 13
Jun-Oct	Rainy	31 to 33°C	9 to 17

The data supports the fact that Nov-Feb is the best season to visit.

How to Get to Around Bangkok?

On our first trip to Thailand, we walked all around the old city. We used buses to go to more distant sights. There are also taxis and even an LRT. We would not recommend driving a rental car in Bangkok unless you are from Cairo or Manila. Rent a car just before driving around the countryside,

On our first trip to Thailand, we usually took the bus to travel between cities. In those days, the bus destination was only in Thai script. So we always made sure to find out the bus number, which use the same Arabic numerals as we do. There are also trains.

We dropped our car off at the airport outside the city and took the bus into the centre.

Is Thailand Safe?

According to the Numbeo Safety Index, Thailand is a very safe country.

Thai Culture and History

The Artistic Heritage of Thailand, book by National Museum Volunteers, Sawaddi Magazine ca. USD 12.58

The House on the Klong, William Warren, Jim Thompson House – mainly photos of the artifacts

The following posts provide background information about Thailand:

Thailand — a Traveller’s Guide to Buddhism

– more about Thai Buddhist culture than the religion

Thailand — a Traveller’s History

Thai & Buddhist Terms and Symbolism

Bangkok – Less Visited Gems Walk 3

Author & Photographer: George Mitchell

George’s Bio

Our recommendations are not influenced by affiliate links – we have none. Our content and advice is derived from our personal experience and knowledge based on spending five months in Thailand as well as as well as travelling three-years Round-The-World.

Why You Should Do the Less Visited Gems Walk

Spectacular Ubosot, Wat Benchamabophit

Most people go to places based on name recognition. This means some sights are over touristed. There is one frequent question of tourists to any country: Where can I find hidden gems in this place? Since there are more Thais than tourists, there is no place that is really hidden, just less visited.  Only in Thailand can you walk down any street and every 100 m (yards) see a beautiful Buddhist wat.

This post will explore some less known, fascinating facts and answer some questions, such as: Why are there Hindu deities and demons in Buddhist Thailand? What is the real name of Bangkok? It also discusses food, night markets, and restaurants you must try before you leave Thailand. Shopping for crafts will be discussed in the Day 4 post. 

The Best Places to See in Bangkok

The best places to see in Bangkok are described in four posts. Your four day itinerary should include:

• Day 1 – you should Not Miss Wat Phra Kaew.
• Day 2 – you should see the Bangkok National Museum, Wat Pho, and Wat Arun. 
• Day 3 – (this post) is about the places overlooked by most tourists.
• Day 4 – you could do the Become a Local Walk including Jim Thompson House, Suan Pakkad, Thai Craft Shopping, Chatuchak Weekend Market, and a Floating Market.

Bangkok Map

All points of interest in this post can be found on our custom Bangkok Google map and are suffixed by their Google Rating (G0 to G5). Anything rated >= 4.0 is very good; >= 4.4 is excellent. 

The points of interest for this post are in the Day 3 Layer (you can show/hide the other layers by clicking each check box on and off). 

Giant Swing

Walking along Bamrung Mueng Road, the first thing you cannot miss is the huge red Sao Ching Cha or Giant Swing (G4.6). It is also the site of the chief Hindu temple, the Devasathan Shrine. The temple is the headquarters for the Brahmin priests who perform rituals for the Royal Court. Most religious and civil ceremonies and customs are based on Hindu rituals.

Wat Suthat Thepwaram

Front Entrance, Wat Suthat

One of the best gems is also one of the most important temples in Bangkok, Wat Suthat Thepwararam (G4.7). As usual the Thais love long names but everyone just calls it Wat Suthat. Read more in the later topic Why do Thais Use Long Names?

Phra Si Sakyamuni Buddha

Phra Si Sakyamuni Buddha in the Subduing Mara mudra, Wat Suthat

Wat Suthat stores the 13th century Phra Si Sakyamuni Buddha in the Subduing Mara mudra. It was relocated from the abandoned Wat Mahathat in Sukhothai.

What amazes me is how did they lift this massive metal statue? They sailed it down the Chao Phraya River to Bangkok on an enormous raft, which must have been a fascinating sight. But how did they transport it over land? The statue did not fit through the city gate, so part of the wall was torn down. Finally, how did they get it into the temple? Did they leave the end wall of the viharn (hall) open then built around the statue?

Wat Suthat Courtyard

Students in courtyard, Wat Suthat

The courtyard is what is unique about this wat. It is so large it does not feel crowded in spite of all the visitors, including these students wearing the mandatory uniforms — a white shirt with the school initials or logo. Since 1885, the Thai school uniform has been compulsory, even in college! The uniforms were based on the aristocratic schools of England.

Pagodas and Bonsai, Wat Suthat

Why is the terrace decorated with 28 Chinese pagodas? This matches the 28 previous incarnations of the Buddha, which are depicted in the murals inside the viharn.

Chinese statues, Wat Suthat

Why is the wat decorated with Chinese statues? These were used as ballast by Chinese trading ships. The Thais thought they would make great decoration.

Phra Rabieng Khot (cloister), Wat Suthat

The Phra Rabieng Khot (cloister) is the arcade surrounding the courtyard and is lined with murals. Unfortunately, painting on dry plaster does not fare well with age. On our first trip, we watched Thais sketch copies of the murals while others cleaned them and “fixed” the paint with resin. This provides a clear, hard laminate to the painting. The work was supervised by an American and an Italian art restoration experts. They described how they will only paint in the missing areas with vertical bars of water paint. In this way they can tell what parts have been retouched.

Unpainted Window Carving, Wat Suthat

This window shutter is very different as it is carved bas relief rather than flat gold on black lacquerware. However there is something appealing about unvarnished, raw wood. Hidden in the intricate floral designs are Chinese-style pagodas.

Black Bas-reliefs on Red Windows, Wat Benchamabophit

These photos were taken on our first trip and the windows have been restored since then.

Erawan Pediment

Front Entrance Left Side, Wat Suthat

In the pediment, the god Indra is mounted on his three-headed elephant Erawan. Indra is the Hindu god of thunder, rain, and war.

Your first question should be, why are the Hindu gods in a Buddhist country? Thai Buddhism is a mixture of Animism of the original Tai tribes plus Hinduism and Buddhism adopted during the Indianization of SE Asia period. This post has many examples of the incorporation of Animism and Hinduism into Thai Buddhist culture.

God Indra on elephant Erawan, Wat Suthat Pediment

Indra is the king of the gods in the Proto-Indo-European (PIE) pantheon. Indra is the same god as Zeus of PIE Ancient Greeks and Thor of PIE Vikings. Just like Thor, he carries a vajra, a thunderbolt weapon, except it is shaped like a sword. The blue colour symbolizes royalty in Thailand. The use of Indra and blue colour makes sense as this is a royal wat built by King Rama I, the first king of the Chakri (Bangkok) Dynasty.

elephant Erawan column, Wat Suthat

Erawan is the much revered elephant god in the Ramayana epic, who we will see at the Erawan Shrine below. Erawan (Thai) was originally named Airavata (Sanskrit). Elephants have played a major role in Thai culture, agriculture, and warfare. They are the tanks of the ancient Thai armed forces.

Wat Suthat Address and Hours

Address: 146 Thanon Bamrung Muang Road
Open: 0830 – 2100 hrs
Entry Fee: BHT 20 foreigners
Directions: Walk 0.9 km east from Wat Phra Kaew Viewpoint

Why do Thais Use Long Names?

Front Entrance Right Side, Wat Suthat

Actually, the full name of Wat Suthat is Wat Suthat Thepwararam Ratchaworamahawihan. Whoa! We saw in the Are Ayutthaya & Sukhothai Worth Visiting blog that the official city names are also much longer. The official name of Bangkok is:

Krung Thep Mahanakhon Amon Rattanakosin Mahinthara Ayuthaya Mahadilok Phop Noppharat Ratchathani Burirom Udomratchaniwet Mahasathan Amon Piman Awatan Sathit Sakkathattiya Witsanukam Prasit.

Yes, that is the longest city name in the Guinness Book of Records! But the Thais do not use that name nor do they use Bangkok. They call it Krung Thep, meaning City of Angels. Welcome to the Los Angeles of Thailand.

Thai names — even personal last names — are very long because they are commonly composed of a combination of words or syllables that are considered lucky or beneficial. It is also believed that names can affect which spirits are attracted to them. Thais take pride in their long names as a way of connecting with their history. It’s part of the Thai culture.

Wat Traimit

Wat Traimit Ziggurat

Ziggurat View, Wat Traimit

Wat Traimit is the next must-see gem. On our first trip to Bangkok, there were no cell phones or Google Maps so we followed tour groups to an uninspiring single storey wat with a major treasure inside. On our last trip, we found a massive wat befitting its’ long real name, Wat Traimit Withayaram Worawihan (G4.6). What happened? A new mondop was completed in 2010 at the top of a four story marble-clad ziggurat (pyramidal stepped tower that originated in Mesopotamia). No wonder we did not recognize the wat!

Buddhist Monks in Burgundy Robes, Wat Traimit

On the stairs we saw monks wearing burgundy red robes who came to visit this wat. The red colour is associated to monks from Tibet, Nepal, Burma, and Sri Lanka who practise the Mahayana form of Buddhism. Thai monks practise Theravada Buddhism and wear saffron coloured robes because Thais use jackfruit to dye their robes.

Golden Buddha

Why should you visit Wat Traimit? Sure, you have heard of the largest gold sculpture. But there are several other reasons. First is the amazing story of how such an amazing statue was lost and found. Fearing an invasion by the Burmese, the Golden Buddha was moved from Sukhothai to Ayutthaya in 1403. It was encased in layers of stucco and decorated in pottery shards, a strategy that was used frequently by Thais to protect their most treasured images, like the Emerald Buddha in Wat Phra Kaew.

The plastered Golden Buddha remained untouched among the ruins of Ayutthaya, until it was moved in the 1800s to Chinatown in Bangkok. Its’ real value was still unknown. Nobody wanted a 3 m (15 ft) tall plaster Buddha!

Golden Buddha Full View, Wat Traimit

During renovations of the original Wat Traimit in 1955, we heard that they did not realize the statue weighed 5.5 tonnes (5500 kg)! A crane dropped the image, which cracked the stucco and revealed gleaming gold! Made of about 83% pure gold, the image is worth ca. USD 250 million!

The second reason is the Buddhist teaching moment of the Subduing Mara mudra. Mara is the demon of desire. The statue teaches the story how Mara tried to stop Prince Siddhartha from achieving enlightenment. Buddha points his hand down calling on the Earth Goddess to bear witness to all his good deeds. The goddess wrings her hair of all the moisture representing his good deeds and floods the army of Mara. This is the reason why so many Buddha statues use this pose.

The third reason is the beauty of the image. This is not a Michelangelo or Bernini sculpture. There are no anatomically accurate bones and muscles, no dramatic emotion or implied action. Nevertheless, the image is evocative.

Golden Buddha Head Shot, Wat Traimit

The Golden Buddha was made in the Sukhothai Era (1238-1448), the first Thai kingdom run by native Thais. The Sukhothai style combined elements from Sri Lanka and Bagan (Myanmar) with motifs of the Lanna people of Northern Thailand. The first thing you should notice is the ushnisha, the flamelike protuberance above the head. The ushnisha is a Sri Lankan element that symbolizes the supreme power of the Buddha’s enlightenment or his spiritual energy.

Golden Buddha Hand, Wat Traimit

The 13^th century Buddha displays smooth, sinuous curves that reflect light and make the gold gleam. Sukhothai-style anatomy is based on fixed conventions such as a torso like a lion. Rather than facial emotions there is a serene, peaceful face with features made of curves.

Wat Traimit Address and Hours

Address: 494 Thanon Ratchadamri, corner of Phloen Chit Rd
Open: 0800 to 1700 hrs.
Entry Fee: BHT 40
Directions: Walk 2 km from Wat Suthat: south on Unakin Road then east on Charoen Krung Road
Subway: take MRT to Hua Lamphong Station then walk 0.6 km west

Erawan Shrine

Erawan Shrine View from Sky Train, Bangkok, TH

Erawan Shrine (G4.6) is very well known place located next to the Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel. While it is not a hidden gem, most visitors are the locals and that is why you should be visiting. the The SkyTrain’s elevated walkway overlooks the shrine and provides an aerial view and photo spot.

Erawan Joss Sticks

Lighting Joss Sticks, Erawan Shrine

Why should you visit Erawan Shrine? It is a great place to watch people light joss sticks, offer food and flowers. All ages and types of people come here to pray. The purpose of the joss stick is not just to smell the aroma of the incense. It is a symbol of purity and sympathy.

Erawan

Prayers and Elephants, Erawan Shrine

The second reason to visit this gem is to note the elephant statues. Here you can learn that Buddhist Thais are praying at a Hindu Shrine named Erawan, the three-headed elephant god. Erawan is the vehicle of the primary Hindu god Indra of the Proto-Indo-European (PIE) pantheon. Erawan is a well loved character from the Ramakien and other Vedic literature of the ancestral PIE people. Why are elephants so revered? In the Ramayana, elephants brought water and rain. This is very important to an agrarian culture.

Phra Phrom

Phra Phrom Statue, Erawan Shrine

In the centre of the shrine is the statue of Phra Phrom, the Thai name for the Hindu god Brahma, known as the Creator. In this case, Brahma represents guardian spirits in Thai animist beliefs. Moreover, the Thais have conflated the Hindu gods Indra and Brahma. The shrine is dedicated to Erawan, but the elephant is not the vehicle for Brahma. He is the vehicle of not only Indra but also Buddha.

Prayers and Joss Sticks, Erawan Shrine

Spirits and Good Luck

Why are there so many demons and spirits in Thailand. Isn’t this a Buddhist country? Read aboot Buddhist culture in Thailand — a Traveller’s Guide to Buddhism. Do the Thais still believe in spirits?

Classical Musicians. Erawan Shrine

During construction of the Erawan Bangkok Hotel there were many casualties, serious delays and increased costs. The unfinished hotel was cursed! A naval physician and mystic determined that they laid the foundation stone on an inauspicious date and recommended a shrine to Phra Phrom, the god of good fortune, be built (1956). Erawan was also included since the elephant symbolizes good luck. Because the shrine brought such good luck, people now come to obtain their wishes. The original hotel was since replaced by the Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel.

Thai Classical Dancers and Musicians

Classical Dancers in Wai Gesture, Erawan Shrine

Erawan Shrine is an especially good gem because you can see classical dancers and musicians for free. Free for us tourists but petitioners pay for these performances. Here the dancers pose in the wai gesture, which originates from the namaste gesture of India. Wai (pronounced “why”) can be used to say hello, thank you or sorry.

Erawan Shrine Address and Hours

Address: 494 Thanon Ratchadamri, corner of Phloen Chit Rd
Open: 0800 to 1700 hrs. ??
Entry Fee: Free
Directions: Walk from Wat Traimit, 4 km northeast to Ratchadamri
Subway: take MRT from Hua Lamphong Station to Si Lorn Station then either walk/train north via Lumphini Park to Phloen Chit Rd.

Wat Benchamabophit

Spectacular Ubosot, Wat Benchamabophit

Wat Benchamabophit Dusitwanaram (G4.6) is a less visited gem that you should not miss. The name means the Temple of the fifth King. That is because King Chulalongkorn (aka Rama V) was buried in this wat built next to his Dusit Palace. The ubosot is spectacular with its’ multi-tiered red roof edged with gold chofahs (finials) and naga railings.

Vishnu on Garuda Pediment

Vishnu on Garuda Pediment, Wat Benchamabophit

In the ornate blue pediment, the Hindu god Vishnu rides on Garuda. Vishnu is the supreme being who creates, protects, and transforms the universe and is known as the Preserver. In India, kings were considered living incarnations of Vishnu. In Thailand, religion was also used by kings to identify themselves with Vishnu and establish their divine authority. Vishnu‘s consort Lakshmi is the goddess of wealth, fortune, power, beauty, fertility and prosperity.

Golden Sun Pediment, Wat Benchamabophit

Even the colour is symbolic. Blue is the colour associated to royalty. In the hall is a beautiful gold Buddha framed perfectly by a golden naga.

The Rogers and Hammerstein’s play and movie The King and I was based on Prince Chulalongkorn’s father, King Mongkut. It was banned in Thailand because its depiction of King Mongkut was considered disrespectful and inaccurate.

52 Bronze Buddhas

Subduing Mara mudra, bronze buddha, Wat Benchamabophit

There are 52 bronze buddhas surrounding the courtyard. King Chulalongkorn wanted to provide examples of different iconography used in other countries. This one shows the Subduing Mara mudra explained under Wat Traimit. King Chulalongkorn built the first university in Thailand in 1917.

Standing Buddha, Wat Benchamabophit

Walking Buddha statues are not common. In fact, they did not exist in Ancient India. They were invented in Thailand. Even more intriguing is the raised foot which provides implied motion, a feature of Classical Art. Another aspect is the curved, elongated arms reminiscent of Mannerist Art. The look of the Buddha displays feminine, soft features. Buddhist art does tend to produce asexual images that could be male or female.

Wat Benchamabophit Ubosot

Front Entrance, Wat Benchamabophit

Built in 1899, the temple is also known to anglophones as the Marble Temple. We refrain from using these Anglo aliases as they are not the true names used by Thais. It has floors, walls, and pillars made of Carrara marble imported from Italy. The marble courtyard has two large singhas (lions) guarding the entrance to the ubosot (ordination hall). Singha is Sanskrit for lion, which also the root word of Singapore, or lion city, as well as the name of a Thai lager.

Wat Benchamabophit Door and Windows

stained glass exterior, Wat Benchamabophit

The ubosot combines Thai and European architectural styles. It is unique among Thai temples for its stained glass windows, another western influence.

stained glass window, Wat Benchamabophit

These windows depict scenes from Buddhist teachings, which add vibrant colour and light to the interior. Note the red lacquerware window shutter below the stain glass. 

Black Bas-relief on Red Shutter, Wat Benchamabophit

We really enjoyed the superb bas-reliefs on a gold trimmed red door. we previously believed they were warriors and/or demons from the Ramayana.

Manjushri Bas-reliefs on Red Door, Wat Benchamabophit

However, these two figures have conical crowns that indicate they are royalty. In retrospect, the symbolism seems to better fit Manjushri (an incarnation of Buddha). In one hand, he carries a vajra (thunderbolt) sword, which cuts through ignorance and discrimination. In the other hand, he holds a sutra scroll representing the perfection of wisdom, which transforms into never ending floral motif. Manjushri is often shown riding a lion, which represents princely nobility and fearlessness.

Wat Benchamabophit Address and Hours

Address: 69 Thanon Si Ayutthaya, near Rama V Road
Open: 0800 to 1730 hrs.
Entry Fee: BHT 20
Directions: Walk 5 km 1 hr. along Phetchaburi Rd. or Bus to Rama V Rd stop. 

Dusit Palace Area

King Chulalongkorn was the first Thai King to visit Europe in 1897. He wanted to replicate the Europeans inspired by building a new massive Dusit Palace complex with broad boulevards and gorgeous green spaces to the north of Wat Benchamabophit.

Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall

Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall Overview

The Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall (G4.2) was completed in 1904. The “small” building was used exclusively for state occasions such as ambassadorial receptions and banquets. The grounds are beautiful.

Abhisek Dusit Throne Side View

The building is a simple rectangle but it was made exotic with the use of ornate grill work decorated with intricate carved flower motifs. Other web sites call it Moorish. Arabesque is an art form with interlaced floral and/or geometric patterns. It originated well before Moorish Spain and has been a feature of the earliest Islamic art and architecture since no human or animal images are allowed in Islam. Other features of Islamic architecture are tracery and multi-foil (curved “leaves”) arches shown in the photo. These were used in Byzantine and Venetian Gothic architecture.

Queen Sirikit initiated the SUPPORT foundation to preserve traditional Thai handicraft skills. In 1993, Abhisek was turned into a museum displaying traditional weaving and wood carvings, traditional Mudmee (meaning tied threads in Isaan) silk, and ceramics. Mudmee is hand woven silk and has an uneven, coarser weave with an iridescent two tone colour.

Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall Address and Hours

Open: 0930 to 1600 hrs. It is forbidden to take mobile phones, bags and cameras into the palace. These items must be left in lockers (THB 20)
Entry Fee: BHT 100 for both buildings; Vimanmek by tour only
Directions: BTS Sky Train station is Phayathai; then follow Si Ayutthaya road to Dusit for about 2½ kilometers. BTS Skytrain station Victory Monument then take bus 515 that stops at Dusit Zoo

Vimanmek Palace

Vimanmek Palace Overview

The Vimanmek Palace is an all teak wooden building where King Rama V actually lived on an island. In 1901, the teak-wood structure was transported piece by piece and reconstructed on its present site. Reported to be the largest golden teak-wood mansion in the world. each room containing exhibits, artefacts, antiques or personal belongings of Rama V.

Vimanmek Palace Entrance

Vimanmek Mansion is certainly an impressive building combining Victorian and Thai styles. The palace grounds make for a very pleasant visit. I wouldn’t necessarily class the mansion by itself as a must-see for first-time visitors. In any event, Vimanmek was dismantled in 2019 to allow for foundation repairs and will be rebuilt upon its completion. Some news articles state that it will not be reopened to the public.

Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall

Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall

Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall is a domed building built in a combination of Italian Renaissance and neoclassical styles. It also is currently closed to the public but we could see it from the road. 

Night Markets & Restaurants

Market Food Vendors, Bangkok

On our first trip we went to the local night markets near the Phra Sumen – Samson Bridge and Yaowarat Road, Chinatown (G4.6). Night markets are generally the best places to get food made for the locals in an authentic way.

Thai Cuisine

Our Pad Thai Chef, Khao San Market

Here we had our first Pad Thai done the authentic Thai way without the high sugar of North American restaurants. This was decades ago when Thai food was not known at home. It was so good we came multiple times. Then we made our second trip and found our chef in the same place over a year later. We smiled and the chef beamed. I am sure she recognized us but we could not speak Thai.

Market Food Dishes, Bangkok

We could not tell “our chef” how our experiences in Thailand changed what we ate at home, which includes preparing many Thai dishes ourselves as described in our Chiang Mai – Food, Flowers, and Festivals post.

Market Food Dishes being served

We cannot recommend restaurants since the food scene has changed over time. We have pinned low cost restaurants we found that have very good to excellent Google ratings (G4.2 to G5) in our custom Bangkok Google map. Unhide the Other Places map layer. 

Hostess, Feung Nakorn Restaurant

Restaurants are generally much more expensive than Night Markets and not necessarily more authentic. Two restaurants we visited on all our trips seemed to provide authentic Isaan style food. They are both on Phaniang Road across from the Rajadamnern Muay Boxing Stadium and so are geared to the Thais. They were Phonjaroen (G4.3) and Likhit Gai Yang (G4.0). Actually, it was here that for the first time we had some of the most authentic dishes mentioned in our Chiang Mai – Food, Flowers, and Festivals post.

Other Posts You May Like

Chiang Mai, Ayutthaya, and Sukhothai are the best cities to visit in Thailand.

Bangkok Day 1

Bangkok — Do not Miss Wat Phra Kaew

Bangkok Day 2

Bangkok — Are Wat Pho, Wat Arun and the National Museum Worth Visiting?

Custom Maps and Facts to Plan your Itinerary

TH is the ISO Country Code for Thailand.
THB is the ISO Currency Code for Thai Bahts.
THB 100 = CAD 3.86, EUR 2.59, GBP 2.25, USD 2.83

Bangkok Google map

When is the Best Time to Visit?

Based on average maximum temperatures from NOAA:

Month	Season	Max Temp	Rain Days
Nov-Feb	Cool	30 to 33°C	Nov = 4
Mar-May	Hot	34 to 35°C	5 to 13
Jun-Oct	Rainy	31 to 33°C	9 to 17

The data supports the fact that Nov-Feb is the best season to visit.

How to Get to Around Bangkok?

Tuk Tuk

On our first trip to Thailand, we walked all around the old city. We used buses to go to more distant sights. There are also tuktuks and even an LRT. We would not recommend driving a rental car in Bangkok unless you are from Cairo or Manila. Rent a car just before driving around the countryside. We dropped our car off at the airport outside the city and took the bus into the centre. Mistake, we should have taken the train.

On our first trip to Thailand, we usually took the bus to travel between cities. In those days, the bus destination was only in Thai script. So we always made sure to find out the bus number, which uses the same Arabic numerals as we do. There are also trains.

Is Thailand Safe?

According to the Numbeo Safety Index, Thailand is a very safe country.

Thai Culture and History

The Artistic Heritage of Thailand, book by National Museum Volunteers, Sawaddi Magazine ca. USD 12.58

The following posts provide background information about Thailand:

Thailand — a Traveller’s Guide to Buddhism

– more about Thai Buddhist culture than the religion

Thailand — a Traveller’s History

Thai & Buddhist Terms and Symbolism

Canadian Rockies – are they that special?

Author & Photographer: George Mitchell

George’s Bio

Our recommendations are not influenced by affiliate links – we have none. Our content and advice is derived from our personal experience and knowledge based on living in Alberta for ten years. We are avid hikers, nature lovers and photographers. The Rocky Mountains were our weekend playground as well as vacation destination.

Why You Should Visit the Canadian Rockies

Bow Lake, Icefield Parkway, Alberta

Are the Canadian Rockies that special? Do you want to see snowy sierras, gorgeous glaciers, turquoise lakes, and exciting hikes? Then the Canadian Rocky Mountains are the place to visit.

The natural beauty and spectacular views are preserved in seven adjacent Rocky Mountain parks — Banff, Jasper, Yoho, Kootenay, Humber, Mount Assiniboine, and Mt. Robson. This comprises an area 21% bigger than New Jersey or 56% of Switzerland — but there are only three towns — and only because they existed before the national parks were established.

Are the Canadian Rockies more beautiful than the American Rockies, the Swiss Alps or the NZ Alps? Is Canada more beautiful than other countries? What is the best itinerary for the Canadian Rockies? Are there hidden gems to get away from tourists? Read the questions below to find out our answer. 

What Questions Do You Have?

Please send your questions via the Comments box at the bottom of the page. We would be glad to answer them. The following are typical questions asked in web search pages. Click the links in our responses below for more details.  

What is unique about the Canadian Rockies?

Mt Robson, BC

What is so special about the Canadian Rockies? There are many places with mountains that are equally spectacular. The Canadian Rockies are not even the highest mountains. The highest peak is Mt. Robson at 3,954 m (12,972 ft). 

Glacial green Peyto Lake, Banff NP, AB

It is the turquoise-green glacial lakes and rivers that make the Canadian Rockies unique. The glaciers falling over the rugged mountains (ice falls) add to the appeal. 

There are not many roads in North America (or the world) that are this spectacular for this long a distance with minimal human development and commercialization.  The latter part is the clincher. That is what is so special about the Canadian Rockies. 

What is the importance of the Canadian Rockies?

Johnston Canyon, Banff NP, AB

Johnston Canyon in Banff NP was once the bottom of a shallow sea. The Rocky Mountains are the result of tectonic (continental) plate uplifting that ended ca. 65 million years ago! Major volcanic eruptions spread ash as far away as Europe. 

To the east of the Canadian Rockies is Dinosaur Provincial Park, Alberta. This once was an ancient coast near a tropical ocean. Imagine, Canada was once tropical! More importantly, it is the world’s richest source of fossils (e.g. Tyrannosaurus, Deinonychus) from the Cretaceous Period (145 to 65 million years ago)! Most of the dinosaur skeletons in museums around the world came from the Red Deer River area. Forget the movie series, Jurassic Park was incorrectly named. There were no giant meat eaters in the Jurassic Era. 

The rise of the Canadian Rockies coincides with the Mass Extinction Event ca. 65 million years ago that killed 95% of all species on Earth and ended the Cretaceous Period. 

What is the best time to visit the Canadian Rockies?

October Snow on Hilda Peak, Banff NP

The best time to visit the Canadian Rockies is from June to September when there is no snow on the hiking trails. October is OK at lower elevations but snow may start to fall in the alpine areas. Autumn is beautiful for golden larch leaves and photogenic views of mountains partially covered with snow.  Winter is ideal for winter sports. In spring the days are long as sunset is at 2200 hrs. We used to fit in three short hikes in one day! 

What activities can I do in the Canadian Rockies?

The Canadian Rockies offer a wide range of activities. In the summer (Jun to Sep) you can enjoy hiking, glacial green lakes, waterfalls, flowers and wildlife viewing. In the winter you can enjoy skiing and snowboarding on world-class slopes of Sunshine and Lake Louise. Year round you can enjoy scenic drives (roads are plowed in the winter), swimming in the hot springs (Banff and Radium), and gourmet dining in the three towns. 

Are the Canadian Rockies more beautiful than Elsewhere?

Icefield Parkway, Alberta

Is Canada more beautiful than USA, NZ or Switzerland? Personally I do not like this kind of query. First, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Second if you love nature then you enjoy all places of beauty. However, this type of question has been asked several times on Quora. Read my explanation of what each of these countries has to offer. 

Is Switzerland More Beautiful than Canada, USA or NZ?

What are the best places to visit in the Canadian Rockies?

That is the purpose of this portal post with links to related detailed posts, where we also answer the most popular travel question “where can I see hidden gems?”. We have divided the possible itineraries into four posts, each of which needs at least one day if you are solely driving around and probably three to five days if you are exploring and hiking. That is assuming you only go on the limited number of hikes we suggested.

1. Best Itinerary for Limited Time – the best places, period
2. Banff to Lake Louise Road Trip – over touristed Rockies
3. Lake Louise to Jasper Road Trip – Icefield Parkway *****
4. Jasper to Mt Robson Road Trip – less visited Rockies

We have identified hidden gems in each of these itineraries. Even the Banff to Lake Louise route has less visited places that you will enjoy. In fact, the more hikes you do, the less tourists you will encounter. Only the trails in the Lake Louise area are over-touristed. 

All the places recommended in these posts are pinned on our custom Rocky Mountain Itinerary Map.  The place names are appended with the Google Maps Rating (G0 to G5). Anything rated >= 4.0 is very good; >= 4.4 is excellent. 

Best Places to See in the Canadian Rockies

1. What is the Best Itinerary for the Canadian Rockies?

Mt Edith Cavell and Lake, Jasper NP, AB

Are the Canadian Rockies that special? Yes they are. If you want a quick answer to what are the best places or you do not have time for an extensive visit, you are in luck. We have developed the best itinerary you can possibly drive. 

The extra plus is that we have provided add-on alternatives that can change a one week road trip to a multi-week nirvana. This itinerary includes the two best road-accessible sights of Yoho NP in British Columbia: Emerald Lake and Takakkaw Falls. If you have time, from Lake Louise you can include the over-touristed Moraine Lake (bus access only) or the under visited Lake O’Hara area of Yoho NP. 

Best Rockies Itinerary Highlights

This itinerary then drives north on the most scenic road in Canada. Forget about Lake Louise! You must drive the Icefield Parkway from Lake Louise to Jasper to see the most spectacular sights and, especially, to hike on the many superb trails.  There are lots of pull-offs and viewpoints. 

Our favourite must-see turquoise (glacial) lakes along this route are Emerald, Bow, Peyto, and Waterfowl Lakes. Other optional add-on side trips in the Jasper area are provided if you have more time. 

This itinerary was broken into three road segments. The distance is short but do not think you can drive this in one day as there are too many spectacular views and hikes so driving time is meaningless. 

Segment	km	Hours	Destinations
1	75	1:05	Lake Louise to Emerald Lake and Takakkaw Falls in Yoho NP to Highway AB-93 Junction
2	131	2:05	Lake Louise to Wilcox Creek
3	224	3:35	Wilcox Creek to Jasper and Mt. Robson
TOTAL	430	6:45	One Way

For the detailed itinerary read…

Discover the Top Sights of the Canadian Rockies with Our Expert Itinerary

2. Banff to Lake Louise Road Trip

Howard Douglas Lake, Citadel Pass Trail, Banff NP

Banff (the town) and Lake Louise are beautiful but they have far too many tourists to feel like you are out in nature.  People go here due to name recognition; not because these are the best places to see in the Rockies. We do not recommend tourists with cars to go there at all.  This itinerary is best for tourists travelling by bus or train. Read the post below for less visited places to see. 

Banff to Lake Louise Highlights

• Banff — Banff Upper Hot Springs, Banff Springs Hotel, Minnewanka Road
• Sunshine Meadows Trails — alpine flowers with open views of Mt Assiniboine
• Johnston Canyon Hike —  easy hike inside a narrow canyon on a raised boardwalk
• Lake Louise “Tourist Trail” — try to see it off-season or early morning as the glaciated Mt Victoria faces east or go up the ski hill on the opposite side of the valley
• Moraine Lake — one of the best lakes, Rock Pile Walk
• Larch Valley – Sentinel Pass and Eiffel Lake Hikes — two of the best

15 Things you Must Do in Banff and Lake Louise

3. Lake Louise to Jasper Road Trip

Parker Ridge Trail, Banff NP, AB

The Icefield Parkway from Lake Louise to Jasper is THE must-see in all of Canada. It is the core part of the Discover the Top Sights of the Canadian Rockies Itinerary described above. Going to the Canadian Rockies and missing the Icefield Parkway is like going to Rome and not seeing the Pantheon! Yes, it is that special. 

Icefield Parkway Highlights

This itinerary does not include the northernmost part of the Icefield Parkway, which is best see from the Jasper Road Trip rather than commuting from your Lake Louise or Waterfowl Lakes base. 

• Bow Lake & Glaciers, Banff NP — excellent pull-off on the lakeside
• Peyto Lake Hike — our favourite OMG turquoise lake after a 20 minute hike
• Waterfowl Lakes — gorgeous turquoise lake with Mt Chephren
• Mistaya Canyon — worth a stop
• Bridal Veil Falls — worth a stop
• Parker Ridge Hike — one of the best, short walks into the alpine area with a spectacular view of the Saskatchewan Glacier, wildlife included
• Wilcox Pass Hike — one of the best views of the Columbia Icefield
• Columbia Icefield — not too many places you can drive to the tip of an icefield
• Sunwapta Canyon Viewpoint — the views keep coming
• Stutfield Glacier Viewpoint — one of the best glacier views

Icefield Parkway — Do not Miss the Best Road Trip in Canada

4. Jasper to Mt Robson Road Trip

Mt Robson

This is the itinerary with much fewer tourists and much more relaxing atmosphere. Even the town of Jasper is more laid-back. While it may not have name recognition, each of the following places is special. 

Jasper to Mt Robson Highlights

• Mount Edith Cavell  — one of my favourite mountains and glacial lakes
• Angel Glacier Hike — two of the great hikes
• Athabasca Falls — spectacular
• Mt Robson PP — OMG viewpoint
• Berg Lake Hike — OMG glacial lake

The following are very worthwhile add-on side trips to the Discover the Top Sights of the Canadian Rockies Itinerary. 

• Maligne Canyon “Hike” —
• Maligne Lake & Bald Hills Hike— if you are not a hiker, at least walk past the lodge to an open view of the lake

Jasper & Mt Robson — 7 Best Places to Enjoy

Yoho & Kootenay Awesome Sights

Lake O’Hara from Shoreline Trail, BC

Lake O’Hara in Yoho NP may be the most special place to visit in all of the Rockies. However, you need a bus reservation or a long 11 km walk to get to the lake where many spectacular hikes begin! Not only are the sights awesome but the Aboriginal name Yoho means awe. 

Yoho & Kootenay Highlights

• Takkakaw Falls, Yoho NP — one of the highest in Canada
• Emerald Lake, Yoho NP — drop dead gorgeous
• Lake O’Hara, Yoho NP — drop dead gorgeous turquoise lake with many hikes
• Marble Canyon, Kootenay NP
• Radium Hot Springs, just outside Kootenay NP — less crowded than the Banff Hot Springs

Yoho National Park – 3 Awesome Sights in the Rocky Mountains

Custom Maps and Facts to Plan your Itinerary

Rocky Mountain Itinerary Map

Rocky Mountain National and Provincial Parks

NP mean National Park, PP means Provincial Park.  All of the following parks together are a UNESCO World Heritage Site (WHS).  Banff was the third NP to be created in the world, after Yellowstone NP.

Rocky Mountain World Heritage Site	Area (km2)
Banff NP	6,641
Jasper NP	10,878
Yoho NP	1,313
Kootenay NP	1,406
Mount Assiniboine PP	390.5
Humber PP	240
Mt. Robson PP	2,249
TOTAL	22,878

Parks Canada Passes

Since the Trans-Canada goes through Banff NP, you can transit through the park without any fees. But the minute you park, hike, drive the Icefield Parkway, or do some other activity — you must have a NP pass. The day pass is $10.50. The annual Discovery Pass is $72.25 for all 80 Parks Canada sites. There are no multi-day passes. There are discounts for children and seniors.

Parks Canada Shuttles

Parks Canada Shuttle Map

The Parks Canada Shuttle runs every 20 mins. from Lake Louise to Moraine Lake is $8. Parking at the Lake Louise/Chateau parking lot has zoomed up to $21. There are shuttle buses from Lake Louise village to Chateau Lake Louise you can check out. There are also buses from Canmore and Banff (town) to Lake Louise.

For more information on prices, routes, schedules and reservations – check out the Banff NP Public Transit Guide and the Visiting Lake Louise and Moraine Lake (Parks Canada) web site.

What to Read about the Rockies

The two books should be available in any bookstore in Alberta and are on Amazon.

• Parkways of the Canadian Rockies (Brian Patton 2008, CAD 24.47) is like bringing a naturalist along to interpret what you should be seeing.
• Canadian Rockies Trail Guide (Brian Patton & Bart Robinson 2022, CAD 29.95) is the best hiking book we have seen or used in all our travels around the world.
• Banff NP Visitor Guide (Parks Canada)
• Banff NP Day Hikes Guide & Map (Parks Canada)
• Visiting Lake Louise and Moraine Lake (Parks Canada web site)
• Icefields Parkway Map (Parks Canada)
• Summer on the Icefields Parkway (Parks Canada)
• Jasper NP Visitor Guide (Parks Canada)
• Jasper NP Points of Interest (Parks Canada)
• Jasper NP Day Hiking Guide (Parks Canada)
• Travel Tips page provides advice that applies to any trip (you can access via the Terra Encounters menu as well).

Remaining Questions

Typical questions like what wildlife or birdlife can I see are discussed within each detailed post. Questions about where to stay and eat are also covered in each post. 

Please send your questions via the Comments box at the bottom of the page. We would be glad to answer them. 

Victoria BC – Hidden Gems Drive

Author & Photographer: George Mitchell

George’s Bio

Our recommendations are not influenced by affiliate links – we have none. Our content and advice is derived from our personal experience and knowledge based on living in Western Canada as well as living and travelling for 23 years around the world.

Why Do the Victoria BC – Hidden Gems Drive

Do you want to see less visited, picturesque places in the suburbs of Victoria?  Hop into your car to find these hidden gems far from touristy downtown. This classic drive explores fairy tale castles, heritage homes, and glorious coastal views. You can see all the points of interest of this driving itinerary on the CA Victoria Map.

Point Ellice House

Point Ellice House

We start today’s itinerary at Point Ellice House, located at 2616 Pleasant St. just before the Bay St Bridge. This Victorian Italianate villa was originally built between 1861 and 1864 and was purchased in 1867 by Peter O’Reilly. He was one of the first Gold Commissioners. This role to adjudicate gold claims was created by Governor Douglas (see The Last Fur Trade Post: Preserving History at Fort St James) after the first Fraser Canyon gold rush (1858). The Brits created these positions to ensure law and order after the experiences of the lawless California gold rush (1849).

Point Ellice House remained in the same family for 108 years. It was sold to the Province of BC in 1975 along with all its belongings — furniture, dishes, pictures, paintings, and wall paper dating from 1890 through 1920. This National Historic Site provides North America’s largest collections of late Victorian and early Edwardian artifacts.

Captain Jacobson House

Just after the Bay St. Bridge, you can stop for coffee at Café Fantastico and/or have a look at Fol Epi next door. Then we headed off to see more heritage homes at 614 Seaforth St. and 507 Head St. in Esquimalt.

Captain Jacobson House

The quaint house on Head St. is described as Steamboat Gothic style with dormer windows and a mansard roof. A mansard roof has a four sloping sides punctured by dormer windows.  It was invented by François Mansart, an early 17th century French architect of the Baroque Era.  It is the typical architectural style of Quebec City.

Each side of the house faces one of the cardinal directions. What better retirement home for a captain. Look for hearts, birds and anchors carved into the siding by the captain. Captain Jacobson was born in Finland (1859) and sailed around the world. He got into the sealing industry and owned several boats, which he could have seen from his large bay windows.

Fort Rodd

The British Royal Navy began using Esquimalt in the 1840s for the lumber trade and support for the Crimean War (1854-56). Fort Rodd is an 1890’s fort built to protect the Esquimalt Naval Base. Be sure to visit the heavy guns that could sink enemy ships.

The last British troops in Canada were stationed here until 1906. The British Pacific fleet was disbanded and their ships sent home to defend against the growing German navy. The arms race preceding World War I had begun.  Actually, 60 soldiers stayed behind and joined the Canadian Forces. The highest paid (sergeants) earned one dollar per day plus free uniforms and food rations. I’m sure they mainly stayed because they fell in love with a local lass or Vivacious Victoria.

Fort Rodd

As you can see above, the fort was hidden in the hill and made to look like a farm to fool any invading navy.  The fort was abandoned in 1956 and the navy yards today are protected by Air Force jets.

This National Historic Site (fee $4) is open from 10:00 to 16:00 or 17:00 hrs. There are exhibits to see but as always listen to the informative interpreters who make the past come alive.

Fisgard Lighthouse

Fisgard Lighthouse

Dramatic Fisgard was the first lighthouse built on our west coast. The light keeper’s house serves as a mini-museum with artifacts from a long gone era. There are good views of the lighthouse and from the lighthouse. The scenic Olympic Mountains are across the strait.

Fisgard Lighthouse View

Esquimalt Lagoon

Esquimalt Lagoon from Fort Rodd

Esquimalt Lagoon, shown in the distance above, is a good place to view shorebirds and water birds. It is a very quiet place, popular among the locals for lunch with views of Hatley Castle.

Hatley Park Castle

Hatley Castle Back Entrance

It’s a winding drive through Hatley Park until we arrived at the back side of Hatley Palace above.  Wow, what an entrance to the best hidden gem of this tour!  We drove to the main parking lot at the bottom of the hill. It’s a short walk back up to the Castle.

James Dunsmuir inherited his family’s coal mines and dominated the province’s economy in the late nineteenth century. He violently opposed unionization. He also served as the Premier of British Columbia from 1900 to 1902.

Hatley Castle Exterior

This gorgeous building and National Heritage Site was built in 1908. James Dunsmuir retired here in 1910 after selling his coal and railway businesses for $11 million. That’s equivalent to $294 million today adjusting solely for inflation (not buying power). The castle was sold to the federal government in 1940 to be used as major military college on the west coast, now the Royal Roads University.

The exterior stone work oozes European castle.  The lavishness of the interior is enhanced with oak and rosewood paneling. Unfortunately we could not go in as it was orientation day for the new school year.

Hatley Castle Sunken Garden

The sunken gardens and flower beds next to the castle are spectacular. The Dunsmuir family built a “Chinatown” to house the ca. 100 gardeners needed to maintain the grounds!  Wow, another free garden.

East Sooke

Arbutus Trees, East Sooke

Heading out of Greater Victoria we drove to East Sooke but we were not too impressed thanks to the poor weather. The best part of the dreary wet day was seeing a grove of Arbutus trees. Yes, they are really that red. No saturation was applied to the photo.

Harris Canyon

Harris Canyon

From East Sooke we took the 207 km Pacific Marine Circle Route (Highway 14) through Sombrio Beach and Lake Cowichan then back via Highway 1 to Victoria. Again, we were not too impressed.  This is clearly a case where getting out of the car to explore and hike is better than the drive.  Our favourite place was Harris Canyon above.

At this point you could visit or stopover at Charming Chemainus — a Vancouver Island Gem. We did love the murals in there.

Sabhai Thai Restaurant, Langford

Sabhai Thai Restaurant

For at least two evenings we ended up our favourite best hidden gem, the Sabhai Thai Restaurant in Langford. We had our usual favourite, the typical Thai dish of green curry. This place knows how to imbue it with the classic Thai flavours of basil, coriander, kaffir lime leaves, and fish sauce.

We love Thailand, as shown by our spending five months (over three trips) exploring the country. We discussed Thai cuisine and our favourite Thai dishes in our post Chiang Mai – Food, Flowers and Festivals. 

Farewell Victoria

Sunset from the ferry to Vancouver

Well we cannot leave without another gorgeous sunset picture.  This shot is from the ferry to Vancouver.

Other Posts You May Like

In case you thought that’s all there is to Victoria, here are nearby places you make want to explore:

Vibrant Victoria – Experience these Magic Moments and Hidden Gems

Victoria’s Hidden Gems: Not So Secret Floral Hot Spots

Victoria Vistas – Fairy Tale Castles and Volcanoes

Chiang Mai – Food, Flowers and Festivals

Custom Maps and Facts to Plan your Itinerary

CA Vancouver Island Map

CA Victoria Map

Exploring Canada’s Most Beautiful Places

This last post answers questions such as:

• How do you plan a trip to Canada?
• How safe is Canada?
• What is the best season for travel?
• Can I see everything in 3 or 3 weeks?
• What are the best places to see in Canada?