Category Archives: Saint Lucia

Luminating Photos with Luminar Neo

Our recommendations are not influenced by affiliate links – we have none. Our content and advice is derived from our personal expertise, experience, and knowledge based on photographing and editing for 23 years of travel and living around the world. I am an avid hiker, nature lover and photographer (all photos in our web site are my own). I particularly love travel photography (which includes many genres from landscapes to portraits).

Luminar Neo is a photo editing software that uses Artificial Intelligence (AI). The first version was released in 2016. Luminar has received very positive reviews from Tech Radar, Macworld, and Digital Rev, who appreciated the number of features offered by the software.

Is Photoshop Overpriced?

Is Adobe Photoshop (PS) the only photo editing software that photographers should use? Has Adobe overpriced PS? Let’s compare it to Microsoft Home and Business, which costs a flat amount of $310 for 5 products. PS costs $339 per year for one product.

There are many other simplistic editors like Photoshop Essentials that I have used for my iPhone images. But they do not provide the capabilities of PS, especially the metadata editor and image grid browser of Adobe Bridge; the curves dialog presets, action macros, and user-defined function keys of Photoshop. On the other hand, PS is hard to learn, complex and time-consuming to use.

I have been using Photoshop (PS), since 2005. I am still using version CS6, which is a very powerful photo editing tool. I did not upgrade from CS6 to the Creative Cloud (CC) since Adobe was charging more for an annual subscription each year than I paid one time for a perpetual license.

However, I just upgraded my broken Nikon D7100 DSLR camera to the Canon EOS R5 mirrorless camera. PS CS6 cannot handle the Canon CR3 RAW image format. When I was reading Ken Rockwell’s Canon R5 review, I noticed that he often used Skylum software in addition to PS. So, I decided to try a new photo editor, Luminar Neo from vendor Skylum. I have been most impressed by how easy it is to make adjustments to my photos.

Luminar Neo Photo Editing Features

Petit Piton, Saint Lucia before editing
Petit Piton, Saint Lucia before editing

Luminar Neo will appeal to people who like ease of use and creative enhancements. Normally I prefer to improve my photos rather than replace backgrounds, make collages, add sun rays, or totally change the atmosphere. However, I have grown to appreciate the ability to swap dull, overcast skies with something better. It was particularly useful editing my iPhone12 photos since they were very lifeless due to lack of a polarizing filter. The after image published in One Caribbean Island You Must See #2 was the result after using the Enhance slider.

Petit Piton, Tet Paul Nature Trail, Saint Lucia
Petit Piton, Saint Lucia after editing

Travel and Landscape Photography

I primarily do travel photography. But travel photography covers a diverse set of genres like macro, landscape, nature, architecture, and portrait photography. The following are the Luminar Neo tools that I have found useful for editing my photos. Most of them use Artificial Intelligence (AI) to perform actions.

EnhanceAI — analyzes your photo and improves the color quality, contrast, saturation, exposure, details, and tone. I use this to simulate a Polarizing filter, which is especially useful for the iPhone images shown in this post. The original photo below was taken in full sun but it does not look like it.

Piton View, Tet Paul Trail, St. Lucia
Petit Piton View before
Piton View, Tet Paul Trail, St. Lucia
Petit Piton View after

SkyAI — allows you to replace a dull overcast sky with a nice blue sky with fluffy clouds or one with sunset lighting.

Smoky Bow Lake, Banff NP, AB Before Editing
Smoky Bow Lake Before Editing

In 2017 there were huge forest fires in British Columbia, Canada. Even though it was sunny at Bow Lake on the Alberta side of the mountains, there was a smoky haze throughout the sky. The views were not how we remembered them as shown in my posts on the Rocky Mountains.

Smoky Bow Lake, Banff NP, AB After Editing
Smoky Bow Lake After Editing

I could not get the picture to improve until I replaced the whole sky and used a high setting (50) for the Enhance Sky tool. Now this is what Bow Lake usually looks like (we used to live in Alberta).

RelightAI — increases or decreases the light in the foreground and/or background of an image. It increases the light in a natural way that is similar to additional sunlight. Even though it was a sunny day, the photo looked like an overcast day.

Rock Stacks on Anse Mamin Beach, St Lucia
Anse Mamin Beach before
Rock Stacks on Anse Mamin Beach
Anse Mamin Beach after

The after image published in One Caribbean Island You Must See #2 was the result of Enhance plus Relight, which added a small increase in sunlight. When only a partial area in the foreground or background needs additional or less light, then you have to use masking with the Develop (lighting) tool or the Dodge & Burn tool.

EraseAI — replaces dust spots or powerlines with pixels of the existing background by the push of one button.

Bougainvillea, Adeline’s Art Cafe, Canaries, Saint Lucia
Bougainvillea with Powerlines before
Bougainvillea, Adeline’s Art Cafe, Canaries, Saint Lucia
Bougainvillea after

Some users complain that there are spots that were not removed. This is a simple fix — just paint any object then press Erase to remove it. In the case below, Luminar did not recognize the powerlines. Were they too thick or angled too much?

Turquoise-browed motmot, Costa Rica before editing
Turquoise-browed motmot before editing

The extra plus is that one can remove branches, road signs or other distracting things. In this case I merely painted two of the powerlines with a brush size the diameter of the wire. I had to keep the one wire that the motmot was perched on in Costa Rica.

Turquoise-browed motmot, Costa Rica after editing
Turquoise-browed motmot after editing

However, this does not work well when the object crosses multiple background objects/patterns as the AI does not know what to replace it with. I found it best not to remove objects against a varied background. However, in the case above, I did remove the powerlines by performing an erase separately for each tree and sky segment. It works well enough if the background is out of focus. However, in the end the telltale artifacts were cropped out.

StructureAI — increases image contrast and brings out more details; it is the equivalent of the Clarity slider in Photoshop Adobe Camera Raw. It adds a bit more light to shadow areas.

Preset — is a set of actions that can be applied to a photo. Luminar provides many possible presets out of the box. Only one preset can be used. It does not save this as a preset setting but instead performs a series of edits that appear in the Edit history. But I found it useful to apply a preset then use the Edit history to see what edits were applied. You can adjust these settings to your taste or create your own preset(s).

Portrait Photography

I have not experimented with the more innovative and artistic features, such as removing the background or placing your subject on a whole new background or layer.

Lovers Statue before edits, English Gardens, Assiniboine Park, Winnipeg, MB
Lovers Statue before edits, English Gardens

Portrait BokehAI — is a superb feature that creates a modifiable, creamy background blur. I wish this tool would work on other subjects such as flowers and animals.

Lovers Statue after edits, English Gardens, Assiniboine Park, Winnipeg, MB
Lovers Statue after edits, English Gardens

On the plus side, Portrait Bokeh does work with statues and even recognizes a group of people. The after image blurred and darkened the background but not the deck. The Enhance and Dodge & Burn tools were used to add more light to the statue.

Masking

You cannot create a mask that applies to multiple tools. I use a mask to select the background and make it totally unsharp and a bit darker. In other words, create a manual bokeh for subjects other than humans. Masking does have an AI function that categorizes photo areas by object type. You can use this to select sky, water, flora, et al., which adds these objects to the mask. However, the mask usually has to be corrected to include or exclude areas that were incorrectly or only partially assigned.

Reuse Tools

One problem in previous versions was that a tool could only be used once per photo. Neo allows you to complete one action by closing (i.e. contracting) the tool then re-opening/expanding the same tool to perform additional actions. These actions can be done in any order.

Undo or Revise Settings

One of the complaints of other users is that there is no undo feature. Yes, you can press the undo icon while you are on the current tool. But once the tool is closed the change appears to be committed.

Luminar Neo Edit Panel
Luminar Neo Edit Panel

However, Luminar Neo provides an Edit history list to the right of the Tools pull-down list. It is very easy to review the past edits, individually change them, or even undo the action and send it to Trash.

Irritations

The next two issues are more learning curve than show stoppers.

1. The mask paint function uses a circular brush that can bleed over to undesirable parts of the image. There is no auto masking feature to prevent this. One has to erase areas that you don’t want masked.

2. Sometimes you may think an action was not performed because the change is not shown. This is particularly true in Edit mode. If you change one of the tools at the bottom of the edit list, more recent actions (above) are not shown on the screen. A typical example is the reappearance of spots that were already erased. You have to exit the tool you are on and enter a more recent tool. Even then, sometimes these changes to do not reappear immediately. But the changes are there.

My theory is that each edit is stored as a separate “file” and Luminar aggregates the edit files up to the level you are editing. This gives the ability to undo or modify any edit independently of each other without affecting other, even more recent, edits. But on the down side, this can often take time until you see the result. Recent updates of Luminar Neo appear to have improved its responsiveness.

Slow Performance

It seems to take a while to perform some functions such as saving an image to persist your customizations or zooming in or out of your image. I’m not sure why. You can perform multiple filters to make further adjustments. I think that Luminar stores each tool as separate “code” or files so that the edits are always modifiable.

Recent updates of Luminar Neo appear to have improved its responsiveness.

My theory is that when you perform a save or zoom, Neo has to consolidate all the “edit files” into the viewable image. It is easy to do a second instance of a tool to make further adjustments. However, I found that it is better to go back to the edit history and modify the existing tool. This minimizes the number of “edit files” to be consolidated.

Cache Settings

After just using a couple of folders of images, I added several more folders. All of a sudden, Luminar did not save the latest edits and the catalog did not show the latest saved images. Image name changes or deletes made in the file system were not being sync’ed with the Luminar catalog.

The suggestions made on-line by Skylum staff were not very helpful and did not work. I am a data architect by trade and thought that this may be due to the low defaults for cache size (1 GB) and backup size. So I increased both to 3 GB.

Things went well so I then decided to add my base photo library external drive. In other words, > 73,000 images rather than a few individual sub-folders. The backup became corrupted and I could not start Luminar. Having been a developer, I was not that upset. The photos still were on the external drives. I had exported JPEGs of my customizations so the edited photos were also saved. What I lost was the edit history of the modifications that I made. Well I could always recreate those.

I reinstalled the software. This time I only added the folders that I was using with a total of 17,000 images.

Luminar Neo Preferences Dialog
Luminar Neo Preferences Dialog

I navigated to menu option File | Preferences and:

  • Changed the Max Size for Caching from default 1000 MB (1 GB) to 40 GB.
  • Changed the Max Size for Backup to 8 GB (since you need to be able to backup what you are editing).

One approach is to only include subfolders that you are currently editing in the Catalog. So far things have gone well. Another alternative is to create a separate catalog for each major subset of photos — if you have a lot of photos.

Recent updates of Luminar Neo appear to have eliminated this problem.

Catalog Deficiencies

Luminar Neo’s Catalog feature is not as good as Adobe Bridge, which can navigate through the file system without having to register individual folders. Luminar also does not list the file names under each image in the grid and only shows them when you hover over an image or select it for editing. But the most important missing feature is a metadata editor. For this reason, I am continuing to use Adobe Bridge to assign the IPTC Core properties like Title, Description, Location, et al.

Luminar does not provide a batch rename capability. That’s not a problem. I have always used the freeware Bulk Rename Utility (BRU), which is useful for any type of file. I use BRU to replace the camera-specific prefix like IMG_ to my standard YYYY-MM CC-9999, where YYYY-MM is the year and month, CC is the ISO two-character country code (e.g. CA for Canada or US for United States) and/or the two to three-character ISO Country Region Code, and 9999 is the sequence number generated by the camera.

Conclusions

If you are a professional photographer who is heavily invested in PS and third party add-ons then switching to Luminar Neo may not be a good fit. Serious photographers want to assign metadata (properties) to each image to identify precise description, location, et al. In my case, I simply keep using Adobe Bridge in PS.

But for mainstream photographers, Luminar offers ease of use, sliders that enable experimentation, lacklustre sky replacement, and modifiable edits that allow late changes. In short, it facilitates creativity.

One Caribbean Island You Must See #3

Our recommendations are not influenced by affiliate links – we have none. Our content and advice is derived from our personal expertise, experience, and knowledge based on travelling and living 23 years around the world. All the places recommended in this post are pinned on our Saint Lucia MapThe place names are appended with the Google Maps Rating (G0 to G5).

Winter Trip to Saint Lucia

Where are you planning to go to escape the cold? Which Caribbean Island is the best choice? So many ads and blogs push the most visited islands. But we suggest a better alternative, Saint Lucia.

South and East Saint Lucia

Almost everyone has been to the south of St. Lucia because that is where the Hewanorra Airport is located. But I wonder how many people have actually seen the south or east of the island. If you want an unvarnished experience this is the area for you. This is where you can hike in the rain forest that covers 70% of the island. This is where you can go birding — which is why our avid birder son chose to visit Saint Lucia. This is where you can enjoy flowers and plants — see the Mamiku Botanical Gardens. section below. BTW, Saint Lucia has once again been bestowed the coveted title of the World’s Leading Honeymoon Destination.

Beaches

Anse des Sables Beach, Vieux Fort, St Lucia
Anse des Sables Beach, Vieux Fort

There are some beaches on the southeast side but very little is said about them. Most tourists go to the myriad of resorts in the north and west. We saw only a couple of beaches at Vieux Fort (airport) and Dennery; but the road often travels inland and there may be “private” beaches at resorts along the coast. Grand Anse Beach in the northeast requires a long hike.

Anse des Sables Beach, Vieux Fort, St Lucia
Anse des Sables Beach, Vieux Fort, St Lucia

Anse des Sables is French for Sandy Bay. This beach right next to the airport is ranked as the 7th best beach of Saint Lucia. The Atlantic coast is the windward side so the water can be choppy, and there is a lot of algae on the shore. On the positive side there is soft sand and gorgeous turquoise water dotted with sizeable islands. See more photos in the Anse des Sables section below

Birding Hot Spots

Volcanic Hazard Maps in the Lesser Antilles, © 2018-04-20 Front. Earth Sci., CC BY 4.0
Volcanic Hazard Map of the Lesser Antilles

Lesser Antilles is the name of the arc of volcanic islands between Granada and Puerto Rico, which includes Saint Lucia. The birds that are endemic or only found in the Lesser Antilles were the target birds for this trip.

Our son saw 70 species during our one-week trip, which places him in 13th place on the all-time Top 100 eBirders (in Saint Lucia) who have contributed sightings to Cornell Universitys research. He took all the bird photos in this post using the extremely sharp Canon EF 100-400mm lens on a Canon EOS 7D Mark II camera. However, I had to scrape his pictures from his eBird pages as he lives on the west coast, 4430 km (2753 mi) away from us. Therefore, the clarity and resolution may not be the best.

The rest of the photos including the flowers were taken with my iPhone 12 Pro since my Nikon DSLR failed on the first day of the trip. This meant I could not use my 105mm macro lens.

If you stay in the Soufrière region you can easily do multiple trips the the airport region. It is very unlikely that you can do all of the following sites in one day, but they are arranged in the counterclockwise order we took in order to get to Praslin area near Dennery. One has to actually drive north passing Belvedere Road to Marigot Bay then turning right on the only road the crosses the centre of the island in the direction of Dennery, as shown on the Saint Lucia Travel Map.

Belvedere Road

Belvedere - Mahaut Road view, St Lucia
Belvedere – Mahaut Road view

Belvedere Road starts just northeast of Soufrière and the Mirador Piton. This road heads downhill to Mahaut, which is a village near the coast. The narrow but low traffic road is generally enclosed by a tall forest canopy. This photo is one of the only views that I took. We probably came here a half a dozen times and saw many species. I am showing the photos of the endemic birds that can be found.

St. Lucia Warbler, Belvedere Rd, St. Lucia
St. Lucia Warbler, Belvedere Rd

The yellow breasted Saint Lucia warbler (Setophaga delicata) is one of the few colourful birds that can be seen. It is endemic to Saint Lucia.

Lesser Antillean Pewee, Belvedere Rd, St. Lucia
Lesser Antillean Pewee, Belvedere Rd

Lesser Antillean peewee (Contopus latirostris) is small drab flycatcher found in woodlands on only five islands in the Lesser Antilles.

Lesser Antillean Flycatcher, Belvedere Rd, St. Lucia
Lesser Antillean Flycatcher, Belvedere Rd, St. Lucia

Lesser Antillean flycatcher (Myiarchus oberi), a species in flycatcher family Tyrannidae, is found on only six islands in the Lesser Antilles.

Dennery

View of town and bay from Dennery Lookout, St Lucia
View of town and bay from Dennery Lookout

The west to east highway was uneventful until the Dennery Lookout. This was a beautiful view of a small town named after Count d’Ennery, who had written extensively on Saint Lucia in 1765.

The surrounding Mabouya Valley is known for plantations, formerly sugar and now bananas. Near the lookout, we tried several tracks that started at the highway looking for birds but finding cliff top views instead.

Praslin

At an unmarked pull off with log “benches” on the west side of the highway, we found the cart track to Praslin. A local man stopped his car to tell us to be careful in this area. It is known for the fer-de-lance, a poisonous viper snake. We made sure to stay on the path. After two of us left for the hike, another man stopped his car to check if C. had car trouble or needed help. Wow, how many places would people do that?

Caribbean Elaenia, Praslin
Caribbean Elaenia, Praslin

The Caribbean elaenia (Elaenia martinica) is a species first recognized in 1766 by Swedish naturalist Carl Linnaeus, the father of biological taxonomy (i.e. hierarchy of class, order, family, genus and species). This drab and inconspicuous flycatcher is found in the tropical forests of the Caribbean and parts of Central America.

Gray Trembler, Praslin
Gray Trembler, Praslin

The Gray trembler (Cinclocerthia gutturalis) is a passerine in the same family as mockingbirds and thrashers. It is endemic to the islands of Martinique and Saint Lucia.

White-breasted Thrasher, Praslin, St Lucia
White-breasted Thrasher, Praslin

The White-breasted thrasher (Ramphocinclus brachyurus) somewhat resembles the Gray trembler in shape but it has bold white underparts and a dark red eye, which the tremblers lack. This endangered species is endemic to Martinique and Saint Lucia.

Des Cartier Rainforest Trail

This rugged rainforest trail was strewn with rocks and roots, slick with mud and moss, and came with lots of mosquitoes. The low light made it particularly hard for photography. Fortunately, I had my personal bird photographer along for the hike and he captured some good photos in very difficult lighting.

St. Lucia Black Finch, Des Cartiers Rainforest Trail
St. Lucia Black Finch, Des Cartiers Rainforest Trail

The distinctive Saint Lucia black finch (Melanospiza richardsoni) is endemic to Saint Lucia. Males are entirely jet-black.

St Lucia Parrot, Des Cartiers Rainforest Trail
St Lucia Parrot, Des Cartiers Rainforest Trail

The Saint Lucia amazon (Amazona versicolor) is one of the most colourful birds. Commonly known as the Saint Lucia parrot, this endemic is the country’s national bird.

Lesser Antillean Bullfinch, Diamond Botanical Gardens
Lesser Antillean Bullfinch, Diamond Botanical Gardens

The Lesser Antillean bullfinch (Loxigilla noctis) is endemic to the Lesser Antilles.

Purple-throated Carib, Des Cartiers Rainforest Trail
Purple-throated Carib, Des Cartiers Rainforest Trail

The Purple-throated carib (Eulampis jugularis) is a species of hummingbird. It is endemic to most of the islands of the Lesser Antilles.

Scaly-breasted Thrasher, Belvedere Rd, St. Lucia
Scaly-breasted Thrasher, Belvedere Rd

The scaly-breasted thrasher (Allenia fusca) is found throughout much of the Lesser Antilles.

Mamiku Botanical Gardens

The Baron de Micoud was a colonel in the French army and a former Governor of St. Lucia. This estate was gifted to him by King Louis XIV in 1766. After the French Revolution, the British once again seized St. Lucia in 1796 and ingeniously banned the French from owning land in St. Lucia. But Baron de Micoud had married Marie Anne Devaux from Soufrière.

The estate was put in the name of “Madame de Micoud”, which was corrupted to “Ma Micoud”, and now is known as Mamiku. Today, Mamiku Estate is a plantation producing cocoa, tropical flowers, bananas, and other fruits.

Banana Plantation, Mamiku Botanical Gardens, St Lucia
Banana Plantation, Mamiku Botanical Gardens

The Mamiku Road leading to the gardens was lined with banana trees. Interestingly, the bananas were covered by green bags. What are these for? It reduces UV radiation and prevents the invasion of white flies. Apparently, we foreigners do not like markings on our bananas.

Mamiku Hiking Trail

Of course, the real reason we came here was for the birding. But this was not a lucky day for target birds. The loop trail was lined with tropical trees decorated with epiphytes but it was a desert for birds.

Golden Pathos, Mamiku Botanical Gardens, St Lucia
Golden Pathos, Mamiku Botanical Gardens

Golden Pathos (Epipremnum aureum) is native to Moorea (island) in French Polynesia. It has spread to the West Indies, where it has caused severe ecological damage in some cases. It is also called Devil’s vine or Devil’s ivy because it is almost impossible to kill and it stays green even when kept in the dark!

Tricolor stromanthe, Mamiku Botanical Gardens, St Lucia
Tricolor stromanthe, Mamiku Botanical Gardens

Tricolor stromanthe (Stromanthe sanguinea) is native to the Brazilian rainforest. It is valued for its striking variegated leaves with purple undersides. Hummingbirds and bees are the main pollinators.

Copperleaf, Mamiku Botanical Gardens, St Lucia
Copperleaf, Mamiku Botanical Gardens

Copperleaf (Acalypha wilkesiana) is native to Fiji and South Pacific islands. This plant is not only colourful, but it is used to make an ointment that is 73% effective in treating fungal skin diseases.

Mamiku Flowers

Welcome House, Mamiku Botanical Gardens, St Lucia
Welcome House, Mamiku Botanical Gardens

The Mamiku Botanical Gardens were added to the estate in 1997 as an agro-tourism initiative. Since 2006, Mamiku has been owned by Veronica Shingleton-Smith. Born in Jerusalem, she moved to Britain and then Saint Lucia. She is a landscape designer who has worked all over the Caribbean and USA. For instance, she landscaped the famous Sugar Beach Resort below Petit Piton.

The gardens boast an extensive collection of tropical flora but most were not flowering. However, it was a great time to see some wonderful orchids.

Chinese hibiscus flower, Mamiku Botanical Gardens, St Lucia
Chinese hibiscus flower, Mamiku Botanical Gardens

Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) is a well-known flower. The species name rosa-sinensis literally means “rose of China”, but the plant is neither a rose, nor is it from China. While it is native to Vanuatu (South Pacific), today it is spread throughout the tropics. It is the national flower of Malaysia and unofficial national flower of Haiti.

The flowers of Hibiscus rosa-sinensis are edible and are used in salads in the Pacific Islands. But the most common use of hibiscus is as a decoration in the hair of women. We enjoyed this custom on our three-year Round-The-World trip when we visited various Polynesian islands.

Noble dendrobium, orchid, Mamiku Botanical Gardens, St Lucia
Noble dendrobium, Mamiku Botanical Gardens

Noble dendrobium (Dendrobium nobile) is native to southern China, the Himalayas, and Southeast Asia, and is the state flower of Sikkim. It is an epiphytic orchid, meaning that it grows on another plant. In traditional Chinese medicine, shí hú (Dendrobium) is used to replenish fluids. It is very effective for treating conditions such as dry mouth, stomach pain, mouth sores, sunstroke, and other conditions caused by dry weather, pollution or smoke.

Aphrodite's phalaenopsis, orchid, Mamiku Botanical Gardens, St Lucia
Aphrodite’s phalaenopsis, Mamiku Botanical Gardens

Aphrodite’s phalaenopsis (Phalaenopsis amabilis) is an epiphytic orchid commonly known as the moth orchid. It is known by the much nicer name Moon orchid in Indonesia, where it is the national flower. The species name amabilis is a Latin word meaning “lovely”. Aphrodite is the ancient Greek goddess of sexual love and beauty,

Renanthera orchid, Mamiku Botanical Gardens, St Lucia
Renanthera, Mamiku Botanical Gardens

Renanthera a genus of epiphytic and terrestrial orchids found in China, the Himalayas, Southeast Asia, New Guinea, and Melanesia. The name Renanthera is a combination of the Latin renis meaning kidney (root of our word renal), which refers to the distinct kidney shape of the pollinia (pollen grains). The Greek anthera means anther, which is the top, bulbous portion of the stamen where male reproductive cells are produced. 

Tampa butterfly orchid, Mamiku Botanical Gardens, St Lucia
Tampa butterfly orchid, Mamiku Botanical Gardens

Tampa butterfly orchid (Encyclia tampensis) is an epiphytic orchid native to Florida, the Bahamas, and Cuba. The species name Encyclia is derived from Greek enkykleoma meaning “to encircle”. Its’ common name is derived from the butterfly-like movement of its flowers in the wind.

Ashanti blood, Mamiku Botanical Gardens, St Lucia
Ashanti blood, Mamiku Botanical Gardens

Ashanti blood (Mussaenda erythrophylla) is a West African shrub. Mussaenda has been used in traditional medicine for the treatment of skin infections, ulcers, wounds, jaundice, tuberculosis, and bronchitis. A recent study, Anti-microbial and Phytochemical Studies of Mussaenda, in May 2020, provided scientific support for the medicinal use of the plant by traditional healers.

Golden dewdrops, Mamiku Botanical Gardens, St Lucia
Golden dewdrops, Mamiku Botanical Gardens

Golden dewdrops (Duranta erecta) is a species of the verbena family, native to Latin America and the Caribbean. The leaves and unripen berries of the plant are toxic and can kill cats and dogs.

Sword fern and Snake plant, Mamiku Botanical Gardens, St Lucia
Sword fern and Snake plant, Mamiku Botanical Gardens

On the left side of the image, Sword fern (Nephrolepis exaltata) is native to the Americas. On the right side, Snake plant (Dracaena trifasciata) is native to tropical West Africa from Nigeria to the Congo.

Green-throated Carib, Diamond Botanical Gardens
Green-throated Carib, Diamond Botanical Gardens

Green-throated carib (Eulampis holosericeus) is a species of hummingbird. It is found in Puerto Rico and most of the Lesser Antilles. The specific name is from the Ancient Greek holosērikos meaning “silken”. Botanical Gardens are a good spot to see caribs and hummingbirds.

Another place you can visit is nearby LaTille Falls and Garden. The farmer/owner gave two of us a personal tour after he found out we were from Canada. He had participated in an agricultural training program in Canada when he was a young man.

Seaweed Farm

Sea moss being dried, Seaweed Farm, Vieux Fort, St Lucia
Sea moss being dried, Seaweed Farm

I’m not mentioning the name of this farm as the owners may not want visitors. We were able to go in because our son asked to go birding on the property near a beach. We stayed to talk with the workers to find out what they were doing. Two women explained how they gathered sea moss from the seashore, then spread it on the ground to dry in the sun.

Woman combing the sea moss, Seaweed Farm, Vieux Fort, St Lucia
Woman combing the sea moss, Seaweed Farm

When we arrived, one of the women was combing the sea moss. Sea moss cultivation is recent and only started in the 1970s. Cultivating sea moss is an extra income earner for Saint Lucian farmers, many of whom lack resources. It does not require expensive machinery or equipment.

Sea moss, Seaweed Farm, Vieux Fort, St Lucia
Sea moss, Seaweed Farm

In the Caribbean, sea moss is considered an aphrodisiac. But it’s only been in the past five years that global demand for sea moss has begun to take off. Sea Moss (Irish moss) is rich in amino acids, vitamin C, antioxidants, antiviral and antimicrobial agents. These can help the body to fight off and prevent infections.

Farmer watching his flock of goats, Vieux Fort, St Lucia
Farmer watching his flock of goats

We spoke to the farmer who was watching his flock of goats. He told us that a short while ago, a pack of wild dogs descended from the forest and killed several goats.

Goat Farmer, Vieux Fort, St Lucia
Goats on the Farm

Cedar Heights Beach

Cedar Heights Beach, Vieux Fort, St Lucia
Cedar Heights Beach, Vieux Fort

There was no sign just a rough road that started at a highway bridge to the southwest of the airport. It was not a much of a beach (narrow), but it had some nice views. We came here frequently looking for plovers, sandpipers and other shorebirds.

Carib Grackle, Anse la Raye & Cedar Heights Beach, St Lucia
Carib Grackle, Anse la Raye & Cedar Heights Beach

We saw a Carib Grackle (Quiscalus lugubris), common to northern South America and the Lesser Antilles. It is found in open habitats, including around towns and cities, and is especially abundant along the coast. the male is glossy black with a pointed bill and a yellow eye

We had lunch at Mama Tilly’s (Google rating 4.6) in Laborie. We had a combination of mahi-mahi, coleslaw, beans, carrots, rice and fried plantains. It came with a great local hot sauce and friendly customers, a couple from Castries who drove 1.5 hours just to eat here! The woman, an insurance company trainer, lived just around the corner when she was young.

Anse des Sables Beach

Anse des Sables Beach, Vieux Fort, St Lucia
Anse des Sables Beach, Vieux Fort

Anse Des Sables (aka Sandy beach) is close to the town of Vieux Fort so there are many locals having a drink or a picnic under the shade of the palm trees. With the gorgeous turquoise water, islands and palm trees; it is not surprising that it is rated the 7th best beach of Saint Lucia.

Anse des Sables Beach, Vieux Fort, St Lucia
Anse des Sables Beach, Vieux Fort, St Lucia

This is Atlantic coast, so the wind can be strong and the water choppy; but it was fine all the days we visited except the one where I capture a mother with her young child. There was a lot of algae on the beach. If this was Australia there would be a tractor to remove all the debris and leave pristine sand. This is definitely one of the best beaches, and very uncrowded.

Anse des Sables Beach, Vieux Fort, St Lucia
Anse des Sables Beach, Vieux Fort

Anse des Sables Beach is right near the main airport of Saint Lucia. So, this is where we spent our last morning before taking our flight home. What a way to end our trip!

Be sure to read the previous posts:

    Vie of Pitons from Mirador Soufriere, St. Lucia
    Pitons from Mirador Soufriere, St. Lucia

    One Caribbean Island You Must See #2

    Our recommendations are not influenced by affiliate links – we have none. Our content and advice is derived from our personal expertise, experience, and knowledge based on travelling and living 23 years around the world. All the places recommended in this post are pinned on our Saint Lucia MapThe place names are appended with the Google Maps Rating (G0 to G5).

    Winter Trip to Saint Lucia

    It’s time to search for a warm getaway to escape the cold. But what Caribbean Island is the best choice? So many ads and blogs push the most visited islands. But we suggest a better alternative, Saint Lucia.

    With 70% of the island covered in rain forest, Saint Lucia is an ideal destination if you like beaches, nature, hiking and birding — which is why our avid birder son chose it. Volcanic mountains like the Pitons add to the spectacular scenery.

    This post will give you a taste of the beautiful Caribbean scenery that awaits you in southwest Saint Lucia. The previous post, One Caribbean Island You Must See #1, described historic and scenic Pigeon Island National Park (NP) and the beaches of northern St. Lucia (Castries).

    Soufrière

    Amazon Villas, Soufriere
    Amazon Villas, Soufriere

    We opted for staying at a family-run pension, shopping at the local stores, and eating at local restaurants. This enabled us to meet the people and get to know the country. We chose Amazon Villas (Google rating 4.5) in the village of Fond St. Jacques, a short drive southeast of Soufrière. This provided a central location to the majority of the nature sights in Saint Lucia, as shown on the Saint Lucia Travel Map. We rented a car and explored the island.

    We arrived late Sunday night and all local restaurants were closed in Fond St. Jacques. As a great example of the friendliness of the local people, our host, Conrad, called his friend, Chef Ali, who opened up her nearby restaurant Chef Ali’s Treats just for the three of us. We had a tasty chicken dish and a wide-ranging conversation about cuisine, health, and life in Saint Lucia.

    Fedo's Restaurant, Soufriere, Saint Lucia
    Fedo’s Restaurant, Soufriere

    At lunch, we often headed to Fedo’s (Google rating 4.5) where we had a very filling fish meal (ECD 25) as the plate included vegetables, rice and fried plantains. Fried fish, chicken Creole, steak and curries are some of the dishes in their menu. The passionfruit juice (ECD 4) was delicious. They also had lighter snacks like chicken or beef roti that were very popular with students.

    To economize, we only ate at restaurants at lunch time. We made breakfast and supper in our fully equipped kitchen. We shopped at Saint Lucia’s Massy supermarket chain, looking for local specialities and asking store employees for their suggestions. The store also had an ATM machine for ECD cash as most restaurants only took cash.

    Volcanoes

    St. Lucia is an island in the arc of the Leeward Islands stretching from Venezuela to Puerto Rico in the Caribbean Sea. Most of the islands in this arc are volcanic in origin. The last major Leeward eruption was in 1902, when a volcano was blown to pieces in Martinique, 40 km north of St. Lucia. Within minutes, a glowing cloud of hot gases spread over the town of St. Pierre killing 28,000 inhabitants.

    About 2 million years ago, the volcanic activity around Mount Gimie, the tallest mountain, connected the previous eruptions and built up the island. The famous Pitons are volcanic cones.

    Pitons

    Where are the Best Views of the Pitons?

    Travellers ask where they can find the best view of the Pitons. If you have a car there are several viewpoints with excellent though often distant views.

    Piton and Bay View, Soufriere, St. Lucia
    Piton and Bay View, Soufriere, St. Lucia

    The main view is Mirador Piton, which is shown in the Best Sights from Soufrière to Marigot section below. Another good view is found by descending from the Mirador and turning left near Green Fig Resort, onto a small street heading downwards towards the stadium. The view is lower down but equally dramatic as shown above.

    Finally there are wide angle views of the bay on the rugged road to Anse Chastanet, shown below. On the southwest road there are more sunlit views of Soufrière Bay and very close views of Petit Piton from Malgretoute Beach. Finally, you can see the bay and the Pitons from Soufrière Beach right in the town. But our favourite view is from a great hiking trail.

    Hiking the Tet Paul Trail

    Less than 1 million years ago, a series of volcanoes became active around Soufrière Bay forming the present-day Sulphur Springs and the Pitons. While Gros Piton is slightly higher (798 m or 2,619 ft), my personal favourite is Petit Piton with its steep conical shape.

    Petit Piton, Tet Paul Hiking Trail, Saint Lucia
    Petit Piton Viewpoint, Tet Paul Hiking Trail

    We arrived at the Tet Paul Trail (USD 10) early in the morning and saw tables being prepared for lunch. We had a long chat with the trail staff and found out they were expecting a cruise ship group.

    Piton View, Tet Paul Trail, St. Lucia
    Piton View, Tet Paul Trail, St. Lucia

    To ensure we got to the main views before the tour group, I reversed the order of the loop trail. Instead of turning left at the junction — I think there was a sign — and hiking up the gentle slope, we went straight ahead up a steep path to the viewing platform. We were blown away. There was Petit Piton in full sunlight from sea level to summit. Double wow.

    Stairway to Heaven, Tet Paul Hiking Trail

    The sign Stairway to Heaven was truly justified. However, we saw the sign on our way down.

    Gros Piton, Tet Paul Hiking Trail, Saint Lucia
    Gros Piton, Tet Paul Hiking Trail

    Further on we came to a view of Gros Piton, and it reminded us how volcanic this island is.

    Gros Piton Panorama, Tet Paul Hiking Trail, Saint Lucia
    Gros Piton Panorama, Tet Paul Hiking Trail

    Then the rain clouds started to come in. We were so glad we reversed the direction. We used my iPhone panorama feature to capture the breadth of the view. My Nikon DLSR failed at the beginning of the trip so all the photos in this post were taken with my iPhone 12. Since mobile devices do not have filters, I used my Luminar Neo software to simulate a polarizing filter.

    Beaches of Soufrière Area

    Anse Chastanet

    Anse Chastenet Beach
    Anse Chastenet Beach

    Wow, what a great selection of beaches! Anse is French for cove. There is a very rough road on the northwest coast of Soufrière Bay. It’s well worth the drive to our favourite beaches. We left our car at the parking lot for the first beach, Anse Chastanet. Chastanet beach is split in two parts by the dining pavilion above. The resort understandably does not want non-residents walking on “their side” of the beach, even though hotels do not own beach front. The public beach is tiny but fortunately there were not too many people. Of course, one can always swim over to the other side.

    Anse Mamin

    Path to Anse Mamin
    Path to Anse Mamin

    We asked to cross over the resort side to go to Anse Mamin beach, a short walk away. On the way, we met an American couple that married on this beach ten years ago and have returned to Saint Lucia ten times since then. They let their children stay out all night with the locals because they know they will come home safely. They said this could not happen in other Caribbean countries like Jamaica. See the Travel Safety post for a comparative Safety Index by country.

    Anse Mamin Beach
    Anse Mamin Beach

    Anse Mamin is an even more beautiful beach with thatched shade recliners and eroded rock stacks. There really were not many people.

    Rock Stacks on Anse Mamin Beach
    Rock Stacks on Anse Mamin Beach

    Malgretoute Beach

    View of Soufrière Bay from south ridge, Saint Lucia
    View of Soufrière Bay from south side

    Another beach on the southwest coast of Soufrière Bay is Malgretoute. This “beach” is more a gravel than sand. Here we got our closest view of Petit Piton from sea level. Unfortunately, we never seem to get any sun on our favourite mountain. Note that there are plenty of nice beaches and views without having to pay excessive entry fees. You can get the best views of a sunlit Soufrière Bay from the south side as well.

    Sulphur Springs

    The highly rated Sulphur Springs (G4.6) has mud pools waiting for your facial. The temperatures of the hot springs range from 63ºC to 96ºC. The spring water is black due to a reaction of sulfur and iron. There used to be a Sulphur Mine or Soufrière here, hence the name of the town.

    You can also visit the Drive-In Volcano, a caldera with steaming vents. Sulphur causes greenish-yellow deposits. Hydrogen sulphide in the steam gives the pungent smell of rotten gas. The gas is toxic. Most of the inhabitants of Pompeii died from the poisonous gases from Mt. Vesuvius not the lava flows.

    Diamond Botanical Gardens

    Benches and turtle sculptures, Diamond Botanical Gardens, Soufrière, Saint Lucia
    Benches and turtle sculptures, Diamond Botanical Gardens

    King Louis the XVI of France gave 2000 acres (8.1 km2) to the Devaux brothers for their services to the Crown. The Soufrière Estate included Soufrière town, Sulphur Springs and the therapeutic baths of Diamond Falls. In 1928 the Boulay family restored the scaled-down Diamond Estate, which was damaged by the French Revolution. It is now a six-acre botanical gardens with hot springs and bathing pools.

    This was our favourite garden in Saint Lucia. Everywhere you look there is something to see. There were lots of colourful flowers and beautiful plants, with several interpretive signs.

    Nutmeg, Diamond Botanical Gardens
    Nutmeg, Diamond Botanical Gardens

    Imported to the Caribbean in 1843, nutmeg originated in the Moluccas (Spice Islands) of Indonesia. Nutmeg is grown commercially in Penang (Malaysia), Kerala (India) and Caribbean. It is used in traditional medicine, baking, Asian dishes, and — everyone’s Christmas favourite— eggnog.

    Diamond Flowers

    The following are some of my favourite flowers in this garden.

    Sunset bells, Diamond Botanical Gardens
    Sunset bells, Diamond Botanical Gardens

    The colourful Sunset bells (Chrysothemis pulchella) is native to the tropical Americas.

    Torch ginger, Diamond Botanical Gardens
    Torch ginger, Diamond Botanical Gardens

    Torch ginger is often called Wax flower due to its shiny petals. In Malaysia, it is an ingredient in the famous spicy dish, laksa. In Bali, the flower is used to create sambals (chilli sauces).

    Moon orchid, Diamond Botanical Gardens
    Moon orchid, Diamond Botanical Gardens

    The pretty Moth orchid originated in southeastern Asia. It is known by the much nicer name Moon orchid in Indonesia, where it is the national flower.

    Caladium, Diamond Botanical Gardens
    Caladium, Diamond Botanical Gardens

    Often known by its common name Elephant ear, this plant is also called Caladium, its Latin genus name. This poisonous plant is native to the tropical Americas, but it has spread around the world,

    Shining bird of paradise, Diamond Botanical Gardens
    Shining bird of paradise, Diamond Botanical Gardens

    Shining bird of paradise originated in the Amazon. This flower resembles the head of the crested Bird of Paradise that we were lucky to see in Papua New Guinea.

    Heliconia rostrata, Diamond Botanical Gardens
    Heliconia rostrata, Diamond Botanical Gardens

    Heliconia is a genus of plants. native to tropical Americas. This species is Heliconia rostrata, common name Lobster claws. Rostrata is Latin for beaked.

    Poinsettia, Diamond Botanical Gardens
    Poinsettia, Diamond Botanical Gardens

    Poinsettia is a common house plant at home but originates in Mexico and Central America. Poinsettia is named after Joe Poinsett, the first American envoy to Mexico, who brought the plant to the U.S. in the 1820s. Its red and green leaves remind us that it’s a cold Christmas far to the north.

    Diamond Falls

    Polyporaceae fungi, Diamond Botanical Gardens
    Polyporaceae fungi, Diamond Botanical Gardens

    The final trail segment to the falls was bordered by logs decorated with beautifully patterned fungi, especially the Polyporaceae and Crusts.

    orange Crusts fungi, Diamond Botanical Gardens, Soufrière, Saint Lucia
    Crusts fungi, Diamond Botanical Gardens

    One highlight of the gardens is Diamond Falls. This was not a torrential waterfall. It was more a gentle cascade dripping down a multicoloured cliff. What is unique is that this is a hot spring that comes from a geothermal area two km below the surface.

    Diamond Falls, Diamond Botanical Gardens
    Diamond Falls, Diamond Botanical Gardens

    The colours are caused by the minerals that are in the water. Orange and reddish deposits are caused by iron oxides.

    Diamond Falls and stream, Diamond Botanical Gardens, Soufrière, Saint Lucia
    Diamond Falls and stream, Diamond Botanical Gardens

    The water stream is hot and very photogenic. There are bathing pools that visitors can use. Empress Josephine Bonaparte bathed here as a child!

    Marie Local Cuisine

    After a “hard morning in the gardens”, we just walked next door for lunch at Marie Local Cuisine. We had a chicken, rice and plantain lunch plate (USD 10) and a long conversation with the waitress, who talked about her family and life in St. Lucia.

    Best Sights from Soufrière to Marigot

    This is a description of the first part of the itinerary to Pigeon Island shown on the Saint Lucia Travel Map. However, we visited the following points of interest several times as we travelled to our son’s birding hot spots.

    Mirador Piton Viewpoint

    Pitons from Mirador Soufriere, St. Lucia
    Pitons from Mirador Soufriere, St. Lucia

    Drive ca. 4 km 7 minutes uphill from Soufrière to this spectacular vista on the right-hand side of the road. This viewpoint has ample parking and a formal wood viewing platform. The Pitons are actually quite distant, at least 5 km away on the other side of Soufrière Bay.

    Birding on Belvedere Road

    Local Woman, Belvedere Road, Saint Lucia
    Saint Lucian Woman, Belvedere Road

    We came here many times because, one of our son’s favourite birding spots was going down Belvedere Road from the top of the hill. Yes, the road is narrow but there are very few cars on it. In addition to birds, this road had tropical forests and great views of the bay and the Pitons.

    Bananaquit, Crystal’s Cabins, Soufrière, Saint Lucia
    Bananaquit, Soufrière Canon EF100-400mm f/8 1/500 sec

    One reason to visit Saint Lucia is birding. There are 180 species of birds, of which six species are endemic to Saint Lucia. Our son, an avid birder, saw 70 species in one week. He is also a superb bird photographer and took this photo with his Canon EOS 7D camera.

    Canaries

    Canaries View, St. Lucia
    Canaries View, St. Lucia

    Canaries village has nothing to do with the bird. The name is derived from the French Creole word Kanawe, meaning the cooking pots used to process sugar cane. The town was built in 1763 to support a sugar plantation, which has since closed. Canaries was only accessible by boat until the western highway was built in the 1960s! Today it is a quiet fishing town located in a valley. Houses also stretch up the mountain as you exit the town towards the north.

    Adeline’s Art Villa

    Adeline’s Art Cafe Villa
    Adeline’s Art Cafe Villa

    While sipping coffee or St. Lucian hot chocolate, you can admire has some interesting local and African wood sculptures for sale. Adeline has a beautiful house and a red-tiled garden decorated with bougainvillea and crotons.

    Bougainvillea, Adeline’s Art Cafe, Canaries, Saint Lucia
    Bougainvillea, Adeline’s Art Cafe

    Plas Kassav

    Store front, Plas Kassav, St. Lucia
    Store front, Plas Kassav, St. Lucia

    Several times we stopped at this non-descript place on the ocean side of the highway. I have included a photo so you know what to look for. Here we would pick up small round buns of very dense cassava bread (ECD 7). Some of our favourite flavours were chocolate, apricot, cherry-raison, cinnamon-apple, and coconut. We bought extra ones to take home and heat up for breakfast.

    Cassava is a rich source of carbohydrates that comes from the underground part of the cassava shrub. It is also called manioc and yuca. It is used for bread, casava chips, tapioca, and yuca con mojo, a Cuban dish. Tapioca starch is gaining attention as a source of gluten-free flour to make bread.

    Cassava is grown in more than 80 tropical countries because it is a hardy, drought resistant plant that needs little fertilizer. Cassava is the third-largest source of food carbohydrates in the tropics. You can also watch them prepare the casava flour at Plas Kassav. Interesting fact: never eat raw casava. It contains dangerous levels of naturally occurring cyanide until it is cooked.

    Preparing flour, Plas Kassav, St. Lucia
    Preparing flour, Plas Kassav, St. Lucia

    Anse la Raye

    Anse La Raye sign, St. Lucia
    Anse La Raye sign, St. Lucia

    There are no signs for the unofficial viewpoint on a hill before descending to the town. Park your vehicle before the sign advertising the Friday-night Anse La Raye Fish Fry (and rum).

    View of Anse La Raye bay, St. Lucia
    View of Anse La Raye bay, St. Lucia

    Anse la Raye means Cove of Rays. Rays (Batoidea) are flat-bodied. Like their shark relatives, they are cartilaginous. This means they have a boneless skeleton made of tough, elastic cartilage.

    Meeting House, Anse La Raye, St. Lucia
    Meeting House, Anse La Raye, St. Lucia

    This fishing town is a great place for street and people photography. There is a French Catholic church dating from 1907.

    Brightly painted houses, Anse la Raye, Saint Lucia
    Brightly painted houses, Anse la Raye

    The small wood houses are all painted different colours.

    Students walking home, Anse la Raye, Saint Lucia
    Students walking home, Anse la Raye

    People are waiting on the side of the road for the “bus” — usually a van. Children are walking home from school.

    Food stall, Anse la Raye, Saint Lucia
    Food stall, Anse la Raye

    Stalls sell snacks and meals.

    Marigot Bay

    View from above, Marigot Bay, St. Lucia
    View from above, Marigot Bay, St. Lucia

    The best view of Marigot Beach was from high up. There was no formal viewpoint. I just found a spot on Waterfront street between the main highway and Julietta’s Restaurant. You need a zoom lens or binoculars to get a closer view from here.

    View from shore, Marigot Bay, St. Lucia
    View from shore, Marigot Bay, St. Lucia

    At the Waterfront there are additional views and a boat you can take across the bay to use Marigot Beach, which is on a palm-fringed peninsula.

    From Marigot you can continue north on the itinerary described in the previous post, One Caribbean Island You Must See #1.

    Vie of Pitons from Mirador Soufriere, St. Lucia
    Pitons from Mirador Soufriere, St. Lucia

    All good trips must come to an end. We took our final view from Mirador Piton. The drive home on our last evening was highlighted by a double rainbow.

    Double Rainbow, Fond St. Jacques, St. Lucia
    Double Rainbow, Fond St. Jacques

    One Caribbean Island You Must See #3 describes the southeast side of Saint Lucia.

    One Caribbean Island You Must See #1

    Our recommendations are not influenced by affiliate links – we have none. Our content and advice is derived from our personal expertise, experience, and knowledge based on travelling and living 23 years around the world. All the places recommended in this post are pinned on our Saint Lucia MapThe place names are appended with the Google Maps Rating (G0 to G5).

    Which Caribbean Island is the Best?

    Wicked winter has just arrived in our city with our first snow fall. It’s time for North Americans and Europeans to search for a sunny tropical place to escape the frigid cold. What Caribbean Island is the best place to travel? What Caribbean Island will provide a safe and relaxing vacation?

    We have travelled Round-The-World for three years. While Saint Lucia is not in our list of the Top 20 Countries to Travel, it is an excellent choice for a winter escape. It offers a safe, laid back, and friendly Caribbean Island. Both the country and the beaches are sparsely populated.

    With 70% of the island covered in rain forest, Saint Lucia is an ideal destination if you like nature, hiking or birding. Volcanic geothermal areas and mountains like the Pitons add to the spectacular scenery.

    Unfortunately, my Nikon DSLR camera broke at the beginning of this trip. I took all the photographs in this post on my iPhone 12 Pro, but I used the Luminar Neo photo editor to add a polarizing filter effect.

    The Highlights of This Post

    This post will give you a taste of the beautiful Caribbean scenery that awaits you in Saint Lucia, one of only two countries in the world that is named after a woman. The other country is Ireland, named after the female Gaelic goddess of the land, Eire.

    The travel destinations and topics described in this post are:

    Petit Piton, Tet Paul Nature Trail, Saint Lucia
    Petit Piton, Tet Paul Nature Trail

    A second future post, One Caribbean Island You Must See #2, will cover the even more spectacular Soufriere area.

    Soufriere to Castries

    Most tourists stay at an all-inclusive hotel on the beach. We opted for staying at a family-run pension, renting a car, and exploring the island. We found a hotel near Soufriere since it is the most central location to the majority of the nature sights in Saint Lucia. In the north is Castries, the capital and sole city of Saint Lucia. It is a popular destination for the cruise and urban-oriented crowd.

    The 40 km itinerary from Soufriere to Castries and Cas en Bas Beach is shown on the Saint Lucia Travel Map. The roads are good but mountainous, so it takes at least 1.2 hours, depending on Castries traffic. The travel time also depends on how many photo stops you take along the way as there are many picturesque views such as Mirador Pitons Soufriere, Canaries, Anse La Raye, and Marigot Bay. This will be covered in the second post, One Caribbean Island You Must See #2,

    Man Riding a Big Truck, Castries, Saint Lucia
    Man Riding a Big Truck, Castries, Saint Lucia

    The road goes through every town, so the driving is slow. On the plus side, you get to see village life. Children are walking to school. People are waiting on the side of the road for the “bus” — usually a van. Or they ride in the back of some very large trucks.

    Fish Vendor along road to Castries, St. Lucia
    Fish Vendor along road to Castries, St. Lucia

    Stalls sell snacks and meals. This fish vendor was right on the main highway entering Castries. It is another 14 km and 25 minutes to get to Pigeon Island.

    Pigeon Island National Park

    Most of the Fort Rodney Hike is an easy, flat trail noted for birds.

    Hilltop Fort Rodney, St. Lucia
    Hilltop Fort Rodney, St. Lucia

    Both Britain and France wanted Saint Lucia for its slave-based sugar and cotton industries. Ownership of the island changed hands continuously. About 85% of Lucians are direct descendants of these black slaves. While the official language is English, many locals speak Lucian French Creole and many place names are French.

    Cruise Ship and Piton coastline from Fort Rodney, St. Lucia
    Cruise Ship and Piton coastline from Fort Rodney, St. Lucia

    If you are from North America, the rivalry between superpowers Britain and France had a big impact on your history. The Treaty of Paris 1763 ended the Seven Years War. This was the world’s first multinational war pitting Britain, Prussia and Hanover against France, Austria, Sweden, Saxony, Russia, and Spain.  This war made Britain the supreme imperialist power in the world.

    The main goal of Britain was to destroy France as a commercial rival, and so they attacked the French navy and took away most of the French colonies in the Americas. As part of the peace process, Britain allowed France to keep a couple of its seized colonies. France gave up Quebec in order to regain the valuable sugar colonies of Martinique, Guadeloupe and Saint Lucia, and the tiny fishing islands of St-Pierre and Miquelon near Quebec. Spain ceded Florida to Great Britain. Imagine what a difference it would have made had France kept Quebec and Spain kept Florida!

    Climb to Fort Rodney, Pigeon Island National Park, St. Lucia
    Climb to Fort Rodney, St. Lucia

    Nineteen years later, Admiral George Rodney completed Fort Rodney to keep an eye on the French. The last part of the hike to the fort is steep but short. Pigeon Island is only 40 km (25 mi) south of the French colony of Martinique. To improve visibility, he even ordered all trees on Pigeon Island to be cut down.

    As a result, Admiral Rodney could see when the French fleet left Fort Royal, Martinique. Within two hours, his fleet of 100 ships sailed north from Saint Lucia. He was able to catch and defeat the French fleet at the nearby island of Dominica in the Battle of the Saintes (1782), an important victory that was part of the American Revolutionary War. How interconnected we all are.

    24-Pounder Cannons, Fort Rodney, Pigeon Island National Park, St. Lucia
    24-Pounder Cannons, Fort Rodney, St. Lucia

    The cobblestone platform at the top of the fort housed three 24-pounder cannons. The name refers to the projectile weight not the cannon. Each three-metre long cannon weighs 2500 kg and had a crew of 12 gunners and one powder boy. I wonder how they got these heavy cannons up here?

    Powder Magazine, Fort Rodney, Pigeon Island NP
    Powder Magazine, Fort Rodney, Pigeon Island NP

    The cobblestone platform was also used to collect rainwater, which flowed via drains along the wall into a well. It was made fit for drinking using a limestone filter. The low building on the right was the powder magazine.

    Pigeon Island View from Fort Rodney, St. Lucia
    Pigeon Island View from Fort Rodney, St. Lucia

    But the main reason to climb to the fort is for the spectacular views. This is Signal Peak using the cell phone “normal lens” (58mm equivalent). Signal Peak is where the British would watch the French fleet leave their main base in the Caribbean.

    Pigeon Island and Bay View from Fort Rodney, St. Lucia
    Pigeon Island and Bay View from Fort Rodney, St. Lucia

    This is the wide-angle (26mm) view. Pigeon Island was once a hideout for pirates. The Frenchman, Jambe de Bois (wooden leg) and his crew of 330 men were the first Europeans to settle in Saint Lucia. In 1554, he captured and ransomed four Spanish galleons from the Spanish Carribean base in Cuba.

    Pigeon Island and Bay View from Fort Rodney, St. Lucia
    Pigeon Island and Bay View from Fort Rodney, St. Lucia

    This is the ultra-wide-angle (16mm) view. Pigeon Island and Castries served as an American naval air station during World War II to help protect the Panama Canal against attacks by German U-boats.

    Nature — Birds and Flowers

    Bird Photography with Canon 100-400mm lens, Pigeon Island National Park, St. Lucia
    Bird Photography with Canon 100-400mm lens, Pigeon Island National Park

    Another reason to visit Saint Lucia is nature. There are 180 species of birds, of which six species are endemic to Saint Lucia. Our son, an avid birder and recorder on Cornell University’s eBird tracking site, saw 70 species in one week, putting him in 13th place all-time for Saint Lucia. He saw 28 species in the north.

    Shining Bird of Paradise, Diamond Botanical Gardens, Saint Lucia
    Shining Bird of Paradise, Diamond Botanical Gardens

    The Shining Bird of Paradise (Heliconia metallica), which originated in the Amazon, is named after the avian Bird-of-Paradise found in Papua New Guinea. Many of our speciality plants and flowers grow wildly all over the island as well as in beautiful botanical gardens, which will be a topic in the next post, One Caribbean Island You Must See #2

    Beaches of Castries Area

    Pigeon Island Beach

    Pigeon Island Beach with view of Fort Rodney, St. Lucia
    Pigeon Island Beach, St. Lucia

    Pigeon Island is no longer an island. It was joined by a wide, man-made causeway in 1972. Heading back from the NP, we stopped at the public part of Pigeon Island Beach, which has views of Fort Rodney. The public beach is located in the centre of the photo below.

    Sandals Hotel and Pigeon Island Beach View from Fort Rodney, St. Lucia
    Sandals Hotel and Pigeon Island Beach View from Fort Rodney, St. Lucia

    The middle part of the causeway houses the huge Sandals Grande resort, which appears on the right of the photo above.

    Rastafarian Man with Purple Turban, Pigeon Island Beach, St. Lucia
    Rastafarian Man with Purple Turban, Pigeon Island Beach

    At the entrance to the resort part of the beach, vendors have set up stalls. We talked with a turbaned Rastafarian follower about his beliefs. He had a stall selling cedar and mahogany tikis and other carvings.

    Fish Catch of the Day, Gros Islet Beach, Rodney Bay, St. Lucia
    Fish Catch of the Day, Gros Islet Beach, St. Lucia

    We headed south to Gros Islet Beach on Bay St. where we saw a fisher couple cleaning their colourful catch of the day. The unattractive beach was the width of a postage stamp. One of the locals showed us where the beach used to extend — maybe ten metres or yards further out. She said the beach area has been significantly reduced as the ocean level has risen due to climate change.

    Reduit Beach

    Sun and Swim, Reduit Beach, Rodney Bay, St. Lucia
    “Sun and Swim”, Reduit Beach, St. Lucia

    We had a great meal at the Spice of India (Google rating 4.7) restaurant in Rodney Bay village. We ordered the Chef’s Tasting Menu (East Carribean Dollars ECD 53) with options such as Chicken Tikka Masala, Achari Lamb, Bhuna Lamb, and Lamb Xacuti. The food was delicious with cardamon and cumin flavours. We talked with the owner/chef, who works here because he married a St. Lucian woman. His wife lived 1.5 years in Mumbai but hated it.

    Then we drove to the coast to enjoy Reduit Beach. Technically all beaches are public and owned by the government, but many major resorts own all the land surrounding some famous beaches and charge excessive fees to use them. Reduit Beach has free access, nearby refreshment facilities, and a very long stretch of sand that did not feel overcrowded. It is a good place to cool off for both tourists and locals, many of whom come from the nearby city of Castries. This beach came with Caribbean music.

    Cas en Bas Beach

    Cas en Bas Beach Panorama, Saint Lucia
    Cas en Bas Beach Panorama, Saint Lucia

    From here we drove east to Cas en Bas Beach. This is the site of a major resort development fail. Let’s hope it never is built. Notice how few people are on this beach. BTW, this is an extra wide-angle shot by panning the Apple iPhone using the panorama feature.

    Cas en Bas Beach, Saint Lucia
    Cas en Bas Beach, Saint Lucia

    There are only a couple of tourist facilities here; in particular, Marjorie’s Restaurant (Google 4.1). What a great place this would be to turn into a nature park.

    Can I see all of Saint Lucia in a week?

    The short answer is yes! Though most travellers just relax on a beach for their whole stay. Saint Lucia is very small (617 km2 or 238 sq mi) but lacks expressways so you need to allow time to get from place to place.

    The island is a bit larger than San Francisco County (600 km2 or 232 sq mi) and a bit smaller than the original City of Toronto (630 km2 or 243 sq mi) with 3 million people compared to Saint Lucia with 184,400 people. Instead of urban sprawl, 70% of Saint Lucia is covered in rainforest. In fact, the centre of the island is mountainous with no roads.

    How Safe is it to Visit Saint Lucia?

    Saint Lucia seems very safe, especially compared to some of the top destinations in the Caribbean Islands. As one American family that has visited Saint Lucia ten times said, they can trust that their children can stay out all night with the locals and come home safely. This could not happen in other Caribbean countries like Jamaica.

    See the comparative table in the post Travel Safety. The top four Caribbean destinations — Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico, Bahamas, and Jamaica — have some of the highest crime indexes in the world. If you are staying at a countryside resort, you will probably be isolated from city crime.

    What’s the Best Time to Visit Saint Lucia?

    Mean annual temperatures range from 26 °C (78.8 °F) to 32 °C (89.6 °F). More importantly, it did not feel humid. Only the June to December period is wet and stormy — September to October is hurricane season in the Caribbean.

    Travel Safety

    Homicide and robbery rate are more relevant to citizens living in a country. Generally, these rates do not affect tourists. Instead, the table below ranks countries by a more generic Safety Index as a measure of safety when travelling.

    As you can see below, Canada, Europe, and East Asian countries are generally very safe. By contrast, the four most popular Caribbean travel destinations are also the least safe.

    CountryTravel Safe Safety IndexTS
    Rank
    Numbeo Safety Index
    New Zealand90756.7
    Canada881357.1
    Ireland832354.5
    Japan832377.9
    South Korea822973.5
    Italy775054.8
    United Kingdom775053.5
    Saint Lucia7067N/A
    United States 688251.8
    Mexico658846.3
    Costa Rica649046.1
    France649047.6
    Jamaica5510232.2
    Dominican Republic5410639.1
    Bahamas4912337.5
    Thailand4813160.7
    India4755.7
    Puerto Rico3417637.8

    Highest Safety Index = best country: 0-33 = dangerous; 33-66 = somewhat dangerous/safe; 66-100 = safest countries
    Rank 1 = best country; Rank = 129 = worst country

    According to Numbeo, Thailand is very safe. What does not make sense is that the Travel Safe rating for Thailand is poor. Italy does have a high pickpocket risk, which is not shown here. You need to use a money belt for your passport, credit cards and excess cash. You should also be vigilant about the people around you.

    Crime Index by Country 2022, Numbeo

    Most Dangerous and Safest Countries Index ⋆ Travel Safe

    Ireland FAQ

    Italy FAQ

    Saint Lucia Travel Map

    Saint Lucia Sights

    The Saint Lucia map currently shows the Best Sights layer with the Google Rating appended to the name.

    Click the right-side [ ] icon to see an expanded view of the interactive map. Additional sights can be displayed by clicking the leftmost layer icon then clicking the check box to hide/show the Sights and/or Food layer. 

    There is a meaning behind the colours of the icons: dark red is a five-star sight (must-see); orange, extremely good (must-see); yellow, very good… and blue is an unrated point of interest.