Ireland offers some of the best sights including castle ruins, dramatic cliffs, and golden sand beaches. But the end result is that there are too many tourists in high season.
Are there any hidden gems in Ireland? If there are so many Europeans and locals who travel here, is there anywhere that has not been previously been discovered?
Read on to find out alternatives to the overcrowded famous sights — decide which places should you visit as well as get links to our custom Google maps and itinerary planning information.
Our recommendations are not influenced by affiliate links – we have none. Our content and advice is derived from our personal experience and knowledge based on living in Europe for seven years.
What is a Hidden Gem?
One Irish woman on social media wrote “No hidden gems? What on earth are you on about. There [are] multiple things of interest even in my small village with no tourists. I can go for a walk in woods and mountains and pass nobody. The whole of Ireland has something of interest every few kilometres“.
However, in our opinion, a hidden gem is not a place with no people. A tourist trap is not a place with lots of people. Let us define the meaning of tourist trap and hidden gem.
Tourist Trap
A tourist trap is a place that attracts and exploits tourists. These places are heavily promoted to extract money from tourists. They are overpriced and do not provide good value. Examples are Fisherman’s Wharf in San Francisco and tuk-tuk rides in Thailand that detour to a shop hoping for sales.
St John Gogarty Bar, Dublin
Examples in Ireland are Kissing the Blarney Stone at Blarney Castle; overpriced pubs in Temple Bar area of Dublin; and the €20 fee to see the Book of Kells for 20 minutes before you are kicked out. You can’t really have a good look because of the crowds.
On the other hand, a tourist trap is not a place that has many tourists. Florence and Rome, where we lived for four years, are not tourist traps just because there are lots of tourists during the high season. These are legitimate, famous and historic cities.
Hidden Gem
A hidden gem is a place that is not well known. But having no people is not enough. It has to have something exceptional or special. The hill towns in Italy are hidden gems.
Generally, I feel other tourists want to see hidden gems that could be alternatives to the well known, over touristed places. For instance, there are many places to see cliffs and coastlines that are beautiful but not named Moher.
What do you mean by Hidden Gem?
Visitors to Ireland should seek out places that are unique to Ireland, that are Quintessential Ireland. This is especially true when you are visiting for less than two weeks.
On the other hand, what each person considers unique or special may differ. We lived in Rome for 4 years, London for 3 years and travelled around the world for 3 years. We have very different ideas of what is unique or special than other people who have not travelled as much. Thanks to our experiences, we love art and architecture. Most tourists just get templed out after a couple of hours. Many tourists often visit places solely due to “name recognition”.
Giant’s Causeway Trail, Northern Ireland
We have hiked from the Rockies to the Himalayas. So a pleasant walk in a forest with no views or other special feature would not be exciting. On the other hand, we felt the Giants Causeway Trail (not the over-touristy part) was spectacular. Some other people we heard said it was boring. Wow! Chacun a son propre goût!
What are the Hidden Gems in Ireland?
Do you want to get off the tourist path and into authentic Ireland? If you find the number of tourists oppressive then there are a couple of things you can do. The first is to not travel in the summer high season. The second is to seek out less visited places. Most of these places are not really hidden but are just less visited.
I have divided the suggestion by categories that are based on the features that comprise Quintessential Ireland.
Irish Cliffs
If you want to see Irish cliffs but are turned off by the overpriced entry fees and number of tourists at the Cliffs of Moher (G4.7 €12 per person) then you can go to the following:
Cliffs of Kerry, Ring of Skellig,
Slieve League (G4.9) – free: supposedly great but we were fogged out!
As you can see, all of these places are rated as high or higher by all people (locals and tourists) according to the Google Map ratings. Most people go to Cliffs of Moher due to name recognition. You will not miss anything if you skip Moher in favour of one or more of the above places. Rome would be an essential must-see in Italy – Cliffs of Moher, not so much.
Irish Coastlines
Cloughmore View, Achill Island
If you want to see Irish coastlines but are turned off by over-touristed Killarney and Ring of Kerry or ROK (G4.7) then you can go to the following:
Real Ring of Kerry — Kenmore to Ring of Skellig – provides better views than the ROK such as Derrynane Beach (G4.8), Cliffs of Kerry (G4.8), Geokaun Mountain (G4.8)
Galway to Gurteen Bay (G4.8) and Sky Road Viewpoints (G4.8): provides dual crescent beaches, coastal views, pine island view of the Connemara mountains
Amazing Achill Island – drive the west coast along sheep strewn Highway L1405 to Cloughmore Viewpoint (G4.8), Keel Beach (G4.8) and awesome Keem Bay (G4.9)
Are you turned off by cars parked on Benone Beach (G4.8) or high “parking” fees at Port Stewart Beach (£6.20 per person)? Then try these usually empty and free beaches:
Gurteen Bay (G4.9): great picnic place with dual crescent beaches
Keem Beach (G4.9): beautiful turquoise water laps a golden crescent beach
Cullenamore Beach (G4.8): beautiful, expansive beach near Sligo with no people
Portacloy Beach (G4.9): beautiful turquoise water laps a golden beach with no people
If you want to see Irish castles and archeological sites but are turned off by over-touristed and expensive Blarney Castle (G4.7, €22) and Bunratty Castle (G4.6, €17), then you can go to the following:
Trim Castle (G4.7) – OPW: one of the best castles to learn about the Normans and the significance of the date 1066
Bective Abbey (G4.7) – free: great picnic spot on verdant grounds of a destroyed abbey
Cahir Castle (G4.6) – OPW: good views from the outside
Hore Abbey (G4.6) – free, VG views of Rock of Cashel
The following sites are really well known rather than hidden. However, we did not find them that overcrowded in May. They are definitely worthwhile visiting.
Glendalough Site (G4.7) – OPW: one of the best sites of a medieval monastic village
Rock of Cashel Site (G4.5), Viewpoints (G4.7) – OPW: one of the most scenic places for photography
Kilkenny Castle (G4.6) – OPW: built in the medieval era but its most memorable hall was the Picture Gallery built in the 1860s
Dunluce Castle (G4.6) – £6: one of the most atmospheric castles on top of a cliff – actually it is very well known
OPW (Office of Public Works) is the government department that runs Heritage Ireland sites. Each site costs €8 or an annual Heritage Card pass costs €40 for all sites for as many times as you want. If you plan to visit 5 of their sites then the card is worthwhile. Many of the sites include free guided tour and the OPW interpreters were all superb and definitely worthwhile.
Irish Quaint Villages
Purple and Red Buildings, Kinsale
If you want to see typical Irish life then bypass over-touristed Killarney, Cork, Dublin, et al. Instead find quaint villages like:
N.B: Google Maps rates points of interest, accommodation, and restaurants; but it does not rate towns or cities .
Travel Guidelines
Here are some basic principles to follow when you travel in Ireland.
Give up trying to “see everything”. You cannot.
Some places may be better to visit than others but getting from A to B is just as beautiful as destination B.
Tour one concise geographic region in each week.
Meet the people — one of the most important “destinations”.
Use 75 km per hour to calculate average (not actual) driving time. Ignore Google travel time based on ridiculous 100 kph speed limits on Irish two-lane roads not properly built for that speed.
Avoid travelling to a new city every day. Too many tourists think they can drive all day and then see their destination as well.
You need to factor in travel, sightseeing, and activity time.
Quintessential Ireland
White Rocks, Antrim
We like to experience the things that make Ireland unique. Quintessential Ireland is white sheep on green farmland, golden sand beaches, rugged coastlines and craggy cliffs, National Trust (OPW) castles (not tourist traps), glorious viewpoints, and hiking. In the next post we describe what we feel is Quintessential Ireland and what places are examples of where to see it. Our itineraries are based on the features of Quintessential Ireland.
Yes there are hidden gems that are less visited places. These places are as highly rated as the so called famous places. The nature and scenery of Ireland is beautiful.
If you want to have a less tourist infested trip in the summer then do our Best Places for Two Weeks in North Ireland itinerary. This is an action-packed itinerary where you can get away from the crowds of tourists who head to sites that are famous because of name recognition. The places are all highly rated by the people as shown by the high Google Map Ratings. Remember, the most important “destination” is meeting the people.
Do you want more information? Then subscribe for free.
What things fascinate you? How long is your trip? What questions do you have?
If you have less time simply quit the northern itinerary at Ramelton, Donegal or Sligo and return to Trim, departure point for the Dublin airport. If you have a few more days, you can easily add days in the Dublin area. Here is the detailed description of the best itinerary to get away from the crowds and find your hidden gems!
If you have less time simply quit the southwest itinerary at Kinsale, Kenmare or Galway and return to Trim, departure point for the Dublin airport. If you have more than 14 days, add time for the points of interest mentioned in our itineraries.
Here is the detailed description of the best itinerary for Southwest Ireland including hidden gems!
What can you See in 2 Weeks in the North of Ireland?
Danluce Castle, Antrim
The North of Ireland offers some of the best sights including the view-encrusted Giant’s Causeway Trail, the walled city of Derry, castle ruins, dramatic cliffs, and golden sand beaches.
One of the best reasons to do the Ireland North Itinerary is that most of it is less visited than the Southwest. Once you travel west of the ultra-touristy Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland, you can enjoy less-touristed sights all the way to Westport in the Republic of Ireland. This is worthwhile alternative to Southwest Ireland Itinerary.
Read on to find out how to make the most of your time —decide which places should you visit, see which photos fascinate you, as well as get links to our custom Google maps and itinerary planning information.
Our recommendations are not influenced by affiliate links – we have none. Our content and advice is derived from our personal experience and knowledge based on living in Europe for seven years.
Travel Guidelines
Here are some basic principles to follow when you travel in Ireland.
Give up trying to “see everything”. You cannot.
Some places may be better to visit than others but getting from A to B is just as beautiful as destination B.
Tour one concise geographic region in each week.
Meet the people — one of the most important “destinations”.
Use 75 km per hour to calculate average (not actual) driving time. Ignore Google travel time based on ridiculous 100 kph speed limits on Irish two-lane roads not properly built for that speed.
Avoid travelling to a new city every day. Too many tourists think they can drive all day and then see their destination as well.
You need to factor in travel, sightseeing, and activity time.
Quintessential Ireland
White Rocks, Antrim
We like to experience the things that make Ireland unique. Quintessential Ireland is white sheep on green farmland, golden sand beaches, rugged coastlines and craggy cliffs, National Trust (OPW) castles (not tourist traps), glorious viewpoints, and hiking. In the next post we describe what we feel is Quintessential Ireland and what places are examples of where to see it. This itinerary is based on the features of Quintessential Ireland.
We have curated the best places in the North. You may have other opinions and interests. But our advice is confirmed by the residents and visitors of Ireland via the Google Map Rating (G0 to G5) provided for each place. All of our recommendations are over 4.5, a very high rating indeed. You can select other places, but the itinerary should be based on nine must-see sights: Giant’s Causeway (G4.7), Danluce Castle (G4.6); Derry Walls Walk (4.7); Horn Head (G.8); Slieve League, Donegal (G4.9); Mullaghmore Head, Sligo (G4.8); Downpatrick Head (G4.8); Keem Bay, Achill Island (G4.9); and Trim Castle (G4.7).
In fact, this post just describes the must-see highlights. Click on the hyperlinked, detailed post for each day to get the full itinerary with all the places that you can see on the way.
We have developed a custom Ireland North’s Best Sights Map and pinned all the points of interest with the Google Rating suffixed. If you have less time simply stop at Ramelton, Donegal or Sligo and return to Trim, departure point for the Dublin airport. If you have more than 14 days, simply add the optional places listed at the end of the post.
Decisions, Decisions, Decisions – D-Day 1
Cranmore Guest House, Trim
What should you do on your arrival day? That depends on your arrival time and whether you will feel like driving or vegging out due to jet lag. Also note that in our case the rental car process was very bureaucratic and busy even in April. It was 2 hours after arrival when we finally got into our rental car! The options for day 1 are to:
Stay at Triman easy 49 km 42 minutes from the airport;
Travel north to the pretty fishing town of Carlingford (110 km 1:17h);
Drive all the way north to the Antrim Coast (Ballycastle 254 km 2:48h or Ballintoy 258 km 2:52h).
Also note that we recommend staying in Trimat the end as your departure point for Dublin Airport.
Ballycastle-Ballintoy Area – Day 2
Drive: 174 km 2:10 hrs from Carlingford; 244 km 2:55 hrs from Trim; 258 km 2:55h from Dublin Airport Stay: Ballycastle or Ballintoy
Ballintoy is where we ran out of time on our 35-day clockwise road trip to Ireland. I am listing places that we had planned to visit but in counterclockwise order. You could also visit Belfast but we personally do not consider cities to be a unique feature of Ireland and on a short two week or less trip we would recommend scenic places over cities.
If you already drove to Ballycastle or Ballintoy on Day 1 then you can explore the rest of the following places.
Carlingford (Google does not rate towns and cities)
Dark Hedges (G4.3)
Torr Head G4.7
Fair Head G4.9
Portaneevy G4.6
Carrick-a-Rede G4.6
Ballintoy Harbour G4.8
Portbradden Harbour G4.6
The Dark Hedges (G4.3) is an atmospheric tunnel of beech trees used in the Game of Thrones series. Located along Bregagh Road just south of Ballycastle, Northern Ireland, it has the lowest rating of the things to do in this region.
Ambling the Antrim Coast – Day 3
Drive: 54 km, 1:20 hrs one way from Torr Head to White Rocks Stay: Ramelton, Letterkenny, Derry, Bushmills or Ballintoy
“The Antrim Coast Road is often praised as Ireland’s most scenic drive.” This is highly debatable. The road does not even travel along the coast. You need to get off the road to see views and do hikes.
Giant’s Causeway National Park
If the weather is good, you should start with the famous Giant’s Causeway (G4.7). These are the most famous basalt columns in the world – hexagonal crystals caused by rapidly cooled basalt lava.
They claim that all national parks are free but you have to park. The choices are the NP parking lot for an extravagant £12.50 “per person parking” fee or free along the highway IF you can find a place. There was no parking to be had when we went in May and we had run out of time.
Giant’s Causeway Trail
Giant’s Causeway Trail, Antrim
Dunseverick Castle (G4.4) is the trail head for the 7.7 km Giant’s Causeway Trail. National Trust warden, Toby Edwards, claimed this is the best hike (and coast). Some web articles stated that the Dunseverick side of the trail was unexciting. It was time to find out the truth.
After a mere five minutes I was hooked. I had the place all to myself — there were a total of five other hikers including a nice Dutch couple I spoke with for quite a while, as we covered a wide range of topics from hiking to politics.
Giant’s Causeway Trail, Antrim
Actually, you don’t need the highest cliffs or the widest beaches to make a hike good. What makes it special are indented headlands, rocky shapes, and constantly changing, photogenic views.
For the rest of day 3 (if any), you can cover some of the nearby places mentioned under Day 2.
Drive: 64 km, 1:00 hr Stay: Derry, Ramelton, Letterkenny
Dunluce Castle
Dunluce Castle
The best view is right at Danluce Castle (G4.6). There is a charge to visit the ruins. Otherwise, walk from the parking lot through the low wall and turn right for a superb photo opp. Drive a bit further west to Magheracross Viewpoint for a coastal view of Dunluce Castle.
White Rocks
Drive Highways A2 and B62 to another special sight on the Antrim Coast. White Rocks (G4.8) has a beautiful beach with rock cliffs and castle ruins in the background.
White Rocks, Antrim
Not only is the beach beautiful and free, the white limestone cliffs were formed 65 million years ago. You are looking at years and years of dead seashells deposited at the bottom of the sea and compressed into limestone.
Avoid over-touristed Port Stewart and Port Rush altogether unless you prefer urbanization to nature. This is an example of Joni Mitchell’s classic song Big Yellow Taxi: “They paved paradise and put up a parking lot.” The traffic was horrendous with wall-to-wall cars.
Benone Beach
Benone Beach, Antrim
Benone Beach (G4.8) was a huge expanse of sand that was definitely worth stopping for. However, it was spoiled by cars and food trucks parked all over the supposedly Blue Flag beach.
For the detailed itinerary see Ambling the Antrim Coast. From Benone Beach travel to Derry for sightseeing.
Doubling Down in Derry – Day 4 & 5
St. Augustine’s Church, Derry
Derry is definitely worth visiting. A walk on top of the Derry Walls (G4.9) is a must. Derry was the last walled city to be built in Europe (1613 – 1618). You will pass many tourists sights such as St. Augustine’s Church (G4.8) at the NW corner.
St Columb’s Cathedral, Derry
On the west side you will get a view of the Bogside (Catholic) district. On the east side is St Columb’s Cathedral (G4.6).
Guildhall, Derry
At the end, walk north to visit a beautiful stone building, the Guildhall (G4.8). This city hall was the biggest target of bombings during The Troubles!
Gas Mask Fresco, Bogside District, Derry
Next visit the Catholic district with the Free Derry Corner (G4.7) and a veritable open air art gallery of powerful frescoes. See detailed description of this day at:
Drive: 175 km 3:15h from Derry; Stay: Ramelton: could go back to Derry
Trail 2, Horn Head
Drive to Lookout Point on Horn Head (G4.8). Take the short uphill hike from the parking lot to high plateau for a 360° view. A second trail leads to another view of the rugged cliffs.
Discovery Point, Horn Head
Drive to Discovery Point for another great view. Even with the hazy weather, we were blown away by the magnificent vistas at Horn Head, the must-see of the day.
On the way back, stop off at Dunfanaghy to get some food and visit sandy Killahoey Beach (G4.9).
Marble Hill Bay Beach West Side
Marble Hill Bay (G4.7) is a photogenic beach backed by a hill. Be sure to park near The Shack Cafe (G4.7) and enjoy artisan coffee and ice cream. We were not impressed with the ice cream elsewhere in Ireland but this place was superb.
From here you have two alternatives but you probably only have time for one:
1. Glenveagh NP (G4.8) offers a castle, gardens, and hiking near a lake.
2. Fanad Head Route
Doe Castle, Co. Donegal
2a) Doe Castle is not a must-see but it was the scene of Ireland’s own real life Romeo and Juliet tragedy.
Fanad Head Lighthouse, Co. Donegal
2b) Fanad Head Lighthouse (G4.7) to us was overrated. This was the most photogenic view.
Ballymastocker Beach, Portsalon
2c) Ballymastocker Beach, Portsalon (G4.9) is one of the nicest beaches of golden brown sand.
Ballymastocker Beach Viewpoint, Portsalon
Drive south up the switchbacks on Highway R268. The view from the top of the hill is spectacular, especially in sunset lighting. Here is the detailed itinerary.
If it’s sunny drive straight to Slieve League (G4.9), one of the best cliffs in Ireland. It was supposed to be the highlight of this trip. Instead, it was pouring rain and, even worse, the fog hid the famous cliffs. It is not worth driving there in this kind of weather.
Silver Strand, Co. Donegal
We then drove to Silver Strand (G4.9), another beautiful beach! Even when it is not sunny, you can still appreciate beautiful beaches and craggy coastlines.
On the way back to Donegal, we stopped again at the Ahoy Café (G4.7) in Killybegs for some great cappuccino and pastry.
Market House Restaurant, Diamond, Donegal
Donegal was another nice small town with a great B&B. Walk around the Diamond, a triangular square in the centre of town. We loved the stone work on Market House and other buildings.
As you will only have two nights in Sligo, do some sightseeing on the way into Sligo on travel Day 8. The pièce de résistance was the photogenic coastal drive around Mullaghmore Head (G4.8).
Streedagh Beach, Sligo
Discover fossil-laced headlands at Streedagh Beach (G4.8). Few people know that Ireland, Newfoundland and the Maritime provinces of Canada are linked geologically as they used to literally be connected 180 million years ago! Today they are also linked ethnically. As the Maritime provinces are over 20% Irish ethnicity.
Drumcliff Church, Sligo
Even if it’s raining, this is perfect time to visit the beautiful Drumcliff Church (G4.5), the burial site of poet W. B. Yeats.
Colleenamore Beach, Sligo
Feel at peace on tranquil Colleenamore Beach (G4.8). Rosses Point Beach (G4.7), and the town of Sligo.
Glencar Lough View, Sligo
If you have more time or have to leave this itinerary to get to Dublin airport, then drive to Glencar Lough View (G4.6) and Glencar Waterfall (G4.7).
The following detailed day itinerary is in reverse order as we were travelling clockwise around Ireland.
The top attraction on your travel day to Westport is Downpatrick Head (G4.8), which is a bit out of the way but definitely worth it. An easy hike leads you over the photogenic cliffs to sea stacks on the north coast. It you have more time stop at Céide Fields (G4.4), peat farms, and Portacloy Beach (G4.9). From here make your way to Westport.
Soon after the bridge crosses to Achill Island, you should turn left onto local route L1405. Stop at Kildavnet Tower to read about Grainne aka Grace O’Malley, the pirate queen. The O’Malley Family made their fortune from a large shipping and trading business, aka piracy. The O’Malleys owned this castle to protect the entrance to the bay, which hid their ships from the open sea.
Colourful Sheep, Highway L1405, Achill Island
If you take the central highway you will miss the pastoral western coast complete with colourful sheep on green hills.
White Cliffs, Ashleam, Achill Island
Continue driving north passing rocky headlands finally reaching the White Cliffs at Ashleam.
Keem Beach, Achill Island
Then head north to white sand Keel Beach and turquoise water Keem Bay (G4.9). This is a must drive to see Quintessential Ireland! For the detailed itinerary see our post.
Supposedly, the reason ports have brightly colored houses was to help sailors and fishermen find their way home, especially during fog and inclement weather. However, Trim is not on the coast. Perhaps this was to ensure everyone can find the pubs!
If you arrive early you can first get lunch then you can start sightseeing. Trim is an interesting small town of 9000 people with at least five good reasons to stay there. It is a good base for:
Before you write Trim Castle (G4.7) off as just another ruin think about the year 1066. Why is this date significant? Why is this is considered a turning point in European history? The Normans invaded southern England and defeated the battle weary Saxons at the Battle of Hastings in 1066.
Trim Castle, Trim
Today Trim is the largest Norman castle still standing. You can thank 1066 for all the castles found in Ireland. Irish Castles were a French invention. The Normans built castles to defend themselves against the Saxons they had conquered. See more details in Staying Trim in Ireland, which is not about dieting!
Bective Abbey (G4.7), founded in 1147, was a peaceful place we found by accident on our way to Newgrange. It was used as a location during the filming of the 1995 historical action-drama movie Braveheart.
Neolithic Newgrange
Drive: 34 km, 0:33 hrs from Trim Stay: Trim
Newgrange View
Follow the sign to Newgrange, which actually brings you to the Brú na Bóinne Visitor Centre (G4.6), where the mandatory tour buses leave. I did not book ahead and generally there are a couple of seats left on each bus because groups do not want to be split up. I got on very easily.
This tomb dates back to the Megalithic (Stone) Age. How did they build it and why?
Newgrange Entrance Wall
Newgrange is one of the oldest sites in Europe, built around 3200 BC — over 500 years older than the first pyramid at Saqqara, Egypt (2667 BC)! These passage tombs are believed to be evidence of a cult of the dead. See more details in:
There are several options for the end of the trip: Trim or Dublin.
Malahide Castle and Gardens
Drive: 55 km, 0:55 hrs Stay: Trim, Dublin
Another nearby place to visit is Malahide Castle and Gardens (G4.6). We did not get a chance to visit.
Dublin Walks – Days 15 + 16
You probably need 2 days (3 nights) to see Dublin. You will need three or four more days to visit the museums, Guinness brewery, or to drive south of Dublin to Powerscourt and/or Glendalough.
Drive: 21 km, 0:33 hrs from Dublin; 75 km 1 hr from Trim one way Stay: Southern Dublin
Do you want to see a gorgeous garden? It is considered the third best in the world by National Geographic! You will especially like the Italianate Gardens and the Japanese Gardens. There were beautiful rhododendrons when we visited in May!
Drive: 50 km, 1:10 hrs from Dublin; 101 km 1:35 hr from Trim one way including Powerscourt Stay: Trim, South of Dublin
Glendalough (Glenda Lake) was a special find of an archaeological sight plus a scenic drive in the countryside. Do not miss it! Glendalough Monastery was started in the 6th century by St. Kevin. After seeing a short film, we went with a free guide to tour the site. After the guided tour you can wander on your own.
This is an action-packed itinerary where you can get away from the crowds of tourists who head to sites that are famous because of name recognition. The places are all highly rated by the people as shown by the high Google Map Ratings. Remember, the most important “destination” is meeting the people.
Do you want more information? Then subscribe for free.
What things fascinate you? How long is your trip? What questions do you have?
Do you want to learn how to plan an itinerary? Is your trip less than two weeks? If you have less time simply quit the itinerary at Ramelton, Donegal or Sligo and return to Trim, departure point for the Dublin airport. Use this ready-made itinerary map to plan your trip.
If you have more than 14 days, add time for the points of interest mentioned in our day by day itineraries. You can easily add 4 days in the Dublin area to make it a 21 day itinerary.
There is a similar itinerary for two weeks in Southwest Ireland.
For your first trip to Ireland, we highly recommend the Southwest Region as the best place to see Quintessential Ireland — it has white sheep on green pastures, golden sand beaches, crumbling castles, dramatic cliffs, and drop dead coastal views.
Read on to find out how to make the most of your time —decide which places should you visit, see which photos fascinate you, as well as get links to our custom Google maps and itinerary planning information.
Our recommendations are not influenced by affiliate links – we have none. Our content and advice is derived from our personal experience, and knowledge based on living in Europe for seven years.
Travel Guidelines
Here are some basic principles to follow when you travel in Ireland.
Give up trying to “see everything”. You cannot.
Some places may be better to visit than others but getting from A to B is just as beautiful as destination B.
Tour one one concise geographic region in each week.
Meet the people — one of the most important “destinations”.
Use 75 km per hour to calculate driving duration. Ignore Google travel time based on ridiculous 100 kph speed limits on Irish two-lane roads not properly built for that speed.
Avoid travelling to a new city every day. Too many tourists think they can drive all day and then see their destination as well.
You need to factor in travel time, sightseeing and activity time.
Purpose of Travel
Slea Head Drive, Dingle Peninsula
How do you plan the best itinerary? What are your interests? What activities do you want to do? If your purpose is to visit towns and enjoy the pubs and museums then that’s great. Other people may be more interested in coastlines, scenery, and hiking.
I see many tours that are just a list of well known towns. The question is why are you going there? For instance, do you know why you are travelling to a town like Dingle. The answer should not be because I have heard of that name — what I call “name recognition”. The answer should be Slea Head Drive above, which means you need the next day to explore that coastal road.
Quintessential Ireland
Quintessential Ireland, Ring of Kerry
We like to experience the things that make Ireland unique. To us cities like Dublin and Cork are not what makes Ireland unique. Quintessential Ireland is white sheep on green farmland, golden sand beaches, rugged coastlines and cliffs, National Trust (OPW) castles (not tourist traps), glorious viewpoints, and hiking. In the next post we describe what we feel is Quintessential Ireland and what places are examples of where to see it. This itinerary is based on the features of Quintessential Ireland.
We lived in Europe for 7 years and usually had 5 week vacations. But what are the best places to see in Ireland if you only have two weeks of vacation or less?
We have curated the best places to visit including two of the best castles in Ireland. You may have other opinions and interests. But our advice is confirmed by the residents of Ireland via the Google Map Rating (G0 to G5) provided for each place. All but one of our recommendations are over 4.5, a very high rating indeed.
Rock of Cashel from Viewpoint
We have developed a custom Ireland Best 2 Week Trip Map and pinned all the points of interest with the Google Rating suffixed. In order to let you customize the itinerary to your interests yet stay with the 14-day period, we have provided three options:
Kinsale Option;
Trim Option;
Dublin Area Option.
Rock of Cashel – Day 1
Drive: 175 km, 2 hrs from Dublin Airport, about 1 hr past Dublin Stay: Cashel, Cahir, Kilkenny
Rock of Cashel from Viewpoint
After driving past rolling green farmland suddenly there is a huge shock. A massive set of beige buildings rises high above the verdant green valley. The second shock was that the road provided a large pull off to see the viewpoint. This came with a beautiful bas relief of St. Patrick converting and baptizing King Angus at the Rock of Cashel in 450 CE.
Cathedral, Rock of Cashel
The Rock of Cashel (G4.5) is one of the best sights to visit in Ireland as well as being a convenient spot to stop. The cathedral was built between 1235 and 1270. The Puritan dictator, Oliver Cromwell overthrew King Charles I and became ruler of Britain. He desecrated and destroyed all the Catholic Churches and massacred 1000 residents in Cashel that claimed sanctuary in the Cathedral. Cromwell ignored this basic right of law.
Round Tower, Rock of Cashel
Take all the included guided walks and be sure to visit the round tower, the cathedral (1270) and the Hall of the Vicars Choral.
Cashel View from Rock of Cashel
The setting of this site is superb. There are incredibly beautiful views of the surrounding green countryside and the town of Cashel.
Hore Abbey
Rock of Cashel from Hore Abbey
Just below the Rock are the ruins of Hore Abbey (G4.6). Be sure to visit it. There is not much left of this Cistercian Abbey but the views of the Rock of Cashel were stunning. See detailed itinerary in…
We loved the colourful fishing village of Kinsale(G4.7). If you really only have 14 days then we would not include Kinsale. However, you could reduce one day from the end of the trip in exchange.
Purple and Red Buildings, Kinsale
If you have more than 14 days then you should definitely see this village for at least one day before driving to Kenmare.
View from B&B, Ardkilly Ridge Road, Kinsale
This is the beautiful view from our B&B on Ardkilly Ridge Road in the outskirts of Kinsale. The golden crop is rapeseed, a member of the mustard family, grown to produce oil. In Canada it is known as canola, a superior cultivar of this plant invented in Canada.
If you arrived on a late flight on day 1, visit the Rock of Cashel and the highway viewpoint in the morning of day 2. Then proceed to Cahir (G4.6) where there is another castle either for an outside photo shoot or a visit.
From here drive to Kenmare, which has a great Fish and Chips or else there are several restaurants to choose from in attractive downtown Kenmare.
Killarney National Park
If you still have the afternoon, its time to see Killarney NP. If not there is time on the morning of Kenmore to Dingle – Day 4 to do the following points.
Moll’s Gap
Moll’s Gap, Killarney
Drive to Moll’s Gap (G4.7). This pull off provided wide open views of a heath landscape of rock-strewn fields and mountains. At this Y junction, the left road travels through this kaarst landscape to Sneem.
Ladies View
Ladies’ View, Killarney
The main road turns right to Ladies’ View (G4.8) and Killarney.
Muckross House
Muckross House, Killarney
If you have time left over, you could visit the free rhododendron gardens of Muckross House. They were blooming in May.
Muckross Gardens, Killarney
We have included a drive through Killarney NP on the way from Kenmore to Dingle Day 4. These are the only points in Killarney NP that I have highlighted. Why is Killarney the town not part of our itinerary. It is over touristed, high traffic area. that is not worth the hype. Beware of locals travelling 100 kph on roads that should be limited to 70 kph, in spite of one-lane tunnels. Killarney is very special to the Irish because it has forests and a large lake; but it does not compare to the national parks of North America.
The Ring of Kerry (ROK) is a loop road N70 from Killarney that is highly hyped but much of it is unremarkable inland driving. The Real ROK is along the coast. The most scenic spot on the road starts at the O’Carroll’s Cove Beach Restaurant Viewpoint (my name) – 64 km from Killarney. There is a large pull off before and at the restaurant. Here a glorious white sand crescent beach is lapped by partially turquoise waters. We had no idea that the North Atlantic has a turquoise colour – sometimes.
Darrynane Beach
Darrynane Beach, Ring of Kerry
In fact, the actual ROK road bypasses a few of the best places to see in this area. So those who take bus tours really miss the most important sights. At Caherdaniel, be sure to turn left (west) off the ROK to visit Derrynane Beach (G4.8). There is something wonderful about driving off the road to this secluded beach lined with rocks and ringed by islets.
The side road continues further west to Derryname House (G4.7), where we also got something to eat at the picnic tables. This is the ancestral home of Daniel O’Connell, the Liberator of Ireland. There is a second Derryname Beach parking area after the mansion.
Scarriff Island Viewpoint
Scarriff Island Wide Angle View, Ring of Kerry
Take the side road north to get back on the ROK and stop at the Scarriff Island Viewpoint (G4.8). This wide angle view (38 mm) makes you feel as if you are in an airplane with green farmland sloping down to the blue coast.
Scarriff Island Zoom View, Ring of Kerry
This is a zoom view (168 mm) of the same photo above of Scarriff Island. Here is your view of Quintessential Ireland complete with white sheep on green hills stretching to the rugged coastline.
Com an Chiste Viewpoint, Ring of Kerry
This is the view from Com an Chiste Viewpoint (G4.7). The ROK is one of the few roads in Ireland that provides turn offs. There are many others that you should stop at: we are only providing the must-see stops.
Kerry Cliffs Portmagee
Kerry Cliffs, Portmagee, Ring of Skellig
After the Charlie Chaplin statue in Waterville, turn left off the ROK onto the Ring of Skellig road R567 and then left on R566. Be sure to visit Kerry Cliffs Portmagee (G4.8), the best cliffs (in the west) after the Cliffs of Moher.
Kerry Cliffs, Portmagee, Ring of Skellig
Unlike Moher, the promontories here allow you to get up close and personal views of the sides of the cliffs. So definitely walk all these side trails.
Geokaun Mountain
Also be sure to cross the bridge at Portmagee and follow the signs to privately owned Geokaun Mountain (G4.8) for spectacular views of the surrounding coast and countryside.
Valentia Lighthouse View, Geokaun Mountain
Wow, what 360° views! That’s the white Valentia Lighthouse in the centre left above.
Real Ring of Kerry
Com an Chiste Viewpoint, Ring of Kerry
We hope by now that you realize that the Real Ring of Kerry is the quintessential place to go rather than Killarney. As we slept over in Kenmore we headed back along the Ring of Skellig and ROK, except now we had sunset lighting! Do not go back along the inland route to Killarney as that will take forever. See detailed itinerary in…
While the map shows the route from Portmagee to Dingle, we preferred staying and leaving from Kenmore. You can spend this morning at the stops previously described in Killarney National Park: Moll’s Gap (G4.7), Ladies View (G4.8), and Muckross House. If you have seen those points then stop off at Muckross Abbey (G4.8).
Inch Beach
Inch Beach, Dingle Peninsula
After getting something to eat, the next most memorable sight on the drive to Dingle was the massive Inch Beach (G4.8). The golden sand is lined by the ocean and backdropped by the coast.
Dingle
The Fish Box, Dingle
Dingle (towns are not rated by Google) is a nice village with many restaurants and other attractions.
Slea Head Drive – Day 5
Drive: 50 km 1:15h to Conor Pass Stay: Dingle
Slea Head Viewpoints
Ceann Sléibhe, Slea Head Drive, Dingle Peninsula
Slea Head Drive (G4.8) is definitely a must see and the real reason to go to Dingle. That means you need at least two nights for Dingle. Drive west along the narrow Slea Head Drive, aka Highway R559. There are two Slea Head Viewpoints (G4.8), one was labelled Ceann Sléibhe.
Dunquin Pier
Walking to Dunquin Pier, Slea Head Drive
The next stop is Dunquin Harbour (G4.9). If you have mobility problems, see the view from the cliff edge near the parking area.
Dunquin Pier, Slea Head Drive
Otherwise, walk down the steep stone switchbacks to Dunquin Pier. Each turn provides wonderful photos. It is definitely worth a 5+ rating.
Clogher Head
Clogher Head, Slea Head Drive, Dingle Peninsula
Clogher Head has some of the best views of the whole road. First stop at the Clogher Viewpoint then go to the Clogher Strand, the golden sand beach. Then walk along the Clogher Head trail up to the head. We must have spent about an hour here and down at Clogher Strand.
Gallarus Oratory
Gallarus Oratory
It’s amazing how in the 7th century they could build Gallarus Oratory (G4.2) solely with stones. The inverted boat design acts as an arch and lintel stones are used to strengthen the door. It is not a must-see but we had the Heritage Ireland (OPW) pass.
The whole Slea Head Drive route took 8 hours with lots of stops and walks. Conor Pass (G4.8) is another viewpoint but it is on a separate road from Dingle. If you have time, visit it today (if it is sunny) but you get another chance tomorrow. See detailed itinerary in…
Drive: 157 km 3:30 hrs via Tarbert Stay: Doolin, Lahinch, Ennis, Lisdoonvarna, Ballyvaughan
Conor Pass
Conor Pass, Dingle
Depart Dingle on highway R560 to Conor Pass (G4.8), a beautiful viewpoint. It was wet and rainy the day we left but I used Luminar Neo to transform the photo. After Tralee head to Tarbert, where you take the ferry to reduce the distance and bypass Limerick. While you could sightsee along the way, we would recommend visiting Moher right away if it’s a sunny day. No leeway was added to the schedule to wait for better weather.
While many tourists want to stay in Doolin, it is a very small village with limited accommodation. For this reason we provided several alternative towns. We ourselves commuted from Ennis.
Cliffs Of Moher – Day 7
Drive: 39km 0:40 hrs from Ennis; 30km 0:37 hrs from Ballyvaughan Stay: Doolin, Lahinch, Ennis, Lisdoonvarna, Ballyvaughan
Guerin’s Hill, Cliffs of Moher
Cliffs Of Moher G4.7 is not only the most spectacular sight, it is also the most overrun with tourists and we went in April. But you cannot appreciate the beauty without taking a hike. The trail goes right along the edge of the cliffs. Do not be a Village Idiot (VI) and walk near or sit on the edge! Tourists have died in Ireland.
Cliffs of Moher, Ireland
For me the highlight was walking along the cliffs in spite of the many tourists. The areas furthest from the visitor centre had the fewest tourists. What I did and highly recommend is the hike from Guerin’s Path to O’ Briens Tower, just past the Visitor Centre. It’s one hour return but you will probably spend two hours, especially if you like photography.
The OPW Visitor Centre charges an outrageous €9 per person for parking: note that all National Parks in Ireland are free — this is an exception. We used the alternative access point discussed in…
The Burren (G4.6) is well worth doing to see a totally different, karst scenery. There are some tourists but mainly when a tourist bus stops. Limestone is formed from millions and millions of years of compressed coral, ammonites and other sea shells.
At the Cliffs of Moher you can view the millions of years of horizontal sediments that were raised out of the water! This occurred as part of the formation of Europe.
Bloody Cranesbill, The Burren
If you like exploring you will find beautiful flowers, such as Bloody Cranesbill, a type of Geranium. There are also interesting villages, shops and dolmens in this barren area.
For those who only have one week, it is now time to return to your departure airport.
Galway – Day 8
Drive: 75 km 1:32 hr from Doolin; 52 km 1:05 hr from Ballyvaughan Stay: Salt Hill, Galway
Ballyvaughan to the north of The Burren is worth a stop to photograph the thatched roof houses and Muckinish West Tower House. It is a very short drive north from Ballyvaughan to the quiet western suburb of Salt Hill, where we stayed in a wonderful B&B.
Galwayis a delightful city where you can walk along pedestrian streets as well as visit Galway Cathedral, St. Nicholas Church, Spanish Arch and the River Corrib.
To us Galway was base for a few road trips. In other words, you need 2 to 3 days depending on your choices.
Drive: 106 km 2:05h one way Stay: Salt Hill, Galway, Clifden
The first 38.7 km of the drive on Highway N59 was neither memorable nor photogenic. Suddenly, there was a parking area on the left with many cars. Lough Bofin (pronounced loch and meaning lake) was not that close but houses and green hillside pastures reflected in the lake. It was magical.
Pines Island Viewpoint, Highway N59
Pines Island is a viewpoint on the right side of the road. An island of pines were reflected in the still waters of Derryclare Lough surrounded by imposing mountains. How often is there no wind in Ireland?
Gurteen Bay Beaches
Soon after Pine Island, turn left on Route R341 to Roundstone (80.5 km). There are restaurants and cafés here.
Gurteen Bay, Roundstone
Just 3 km later we arrived at one of the premiere sights of this itinerary, Gurteen Bay (G4.9). Here was a crescent beach with white sand made from tiny marine creatures. Ooh, so soft!
Seventh Heaven comes with a picnic bench overlooking the crescent-shaped, turquoise-tinged Gurteen Bay. So we enjoyed the scenery while eating silky Brie de Meaux, scrumptious Tipperary Blue and creamy Tolu Goat Cheese on delicious Rivercote crackers.
Dogs Bay Beach, Gurteen Bay, Errisbeg
I hiked up the nearby hill and walked through the pastures. In less than 15 minutes I arrived at Dog’s Bay and its’ white sand beach. It was amazing to see back to back reverse crescent beaches.
Will these magnificent beaches never stop? The next stop was marked White Beach on Google Maps but its’ official name is Mannin Bay.
Sky Road Viewpoints
Sky Road Viewpoint
Sky Road unfortunately does not provide pull offs until the Sky Viewpoint (G4.8) at the top.
Sky Road View North, Ireland
The road downhill (north) had more views but no where to stop. All you can do is just stop on the road.
Drive: 97 km, 1:40 hrs from Clifden to Galway one way Stay: Clifden, Salt Hill, Galway
If you finished the Sky Road Viewpoint early then you could continue on to Connemara. Else we put this as another day.
Connemara National Park (NP) was very disappointing as it had no roads and no views. It was just a parking lot for three hiking trails. The Visitor Centre host said the drive into the mountains on Highway R344 north of Pines Island was more spectacular than the NP.
Kylemore Abbey
Kylemore Abbey, Connemara
We travelled to nearby Kylemore Abbey (G4.0). This site was easily the most overrun with tourists and tour buses of our trip so far. It is owned and run by the Benedictine Nuns (fee €17, senior €13.50; open 10:00 to 17:00). You can park for free and grab coffee or lunch for €12. The best view and photos can be taken from the bridge to the restaurant, reflections included.
Killary Fjord
The side trip ended with a bang at Killary Fjord as the hills above it were covered with red Rhododendrons in May!
An alternative option for Day 10 is to visit Cong Abbey and Ashford Castle (from outside as for guests only),
There are two options for the end of the trip: Trim or Dublin
Trim Option – Days 11-13
Drive: 183 km, 2:10 hrs Stay: Trim
Colourful Buildings of Trim
Supposedly, the reason ports have brightly colored houses was to help sailors and fishermen find ports, especially during fog and inclement weather. However, Trim is not on the coast. Perhaps this was to ensure everyone can find the pubs!
If you arrive early you can get lunch. Staying Trim in Ireland is not a post about dieting. Trim is an interesting small town of 9000 people with at least four good reasons to stay there. It is a good base to:
Before you write Trim Castle off as just another ruin think about the year 1066. Why is this date significant? Why is this is considered a turning point in European history? The Normans invaded southern England and defeated the battle weary Saxons at the Battle of Hastings in 1066.
Trim Castle Interior Moat
Today Trim is the largest Norman castle still standing. You can thank 1066 for all the castles found in Ireland. Castles were a French invention. The Normans built castles to defend themselves against the Saxons they had conquered.
Brú na Bóinne is one of the oldest sites in Europe. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is from the megalithic (Stone Age) era. The fee depends on the site visited €10 to 18, senior €8 to 16; open 10:00 to 17:00 hrs.
Newgrange Entrance Wall
Follow the signs for Newgrange, which was built around 3200 BC. It is over 500 years older than the first pyramid at Saqqara, Egypt (2667 BC). These passage tombs are believed to be evidence of a cult of the dead.
Another nearby place to visit is Malahide Castle and Gardens (G4.6). We did not get a chance to visit. But you can see how you can have a very enjoyable and more relaxed end to your trip without the hustle of Dublin.
Dublin Option
Drive: 229 km, 2:36 hrs from Galway to Dublin Stay: Dublin
It is an easy all-expressway drive from Galway to Dublin. However, traffic in Dublin will slow you down. You can spend all 3 days exploring Dublin or you can visit some of the special places outside of town.
Dublin Walks – Days 11-13
You need at least two days for Dublin and more if you want to visit the museums and Guinness brewery.
For the third day, you could go to some of the paid attractions or museums. Alternatively, you can drive out of town to Powerscourt and/or Glendalough.
Powerscourt
Drive: 21 km, 0:33 hrs Stay: Dublin
Do you want to see a gorgeous garden? You will especially like the Italianate Gardens and the Japanese Gardens. It is considered the third best in the world by National Geographic! There were beautiful rhododendrons when we visited in May!
Drive: 50 km, 1:10 hrs including distance to Powerscourt Stay: Dublin
Glendalough was a special find of an archaeological sight plus a scenic drive in the countryside. Do not miss it! Glendalough Monastery was started in the 6th century by St. Kevin. After seeing a short film, we went with a free guide to tour the site.
The most unique building is the Round Tower. It was used as a watch tower and a treasure room. Its front door requires a ladder to enter. During Viking invasions, they could pull up the ladder to protect the wealth stored inside. But its’ primary purpose was as a bell tower, a tradition of Campanile in Roman Catholic Italy – the Tower of Pisa is an example.
This is an action-packed itinerary. Most newbie tourists head to sites that they have heard about or what I call name recognition. The places we recommend are all highly rated by the people as shown by the high Google Map Ratings. Remember, the most important “destination” is meeting the people.
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What things fascinate you? How long is your trip? What questions do you have?
Do you want to learn how to plan an itinerary? Is your trip less than two weeks? If you have less time simply quit the itinerary at Portmagee, Dingle or Cliffs of Moher and return back to the Dublin airport. Use this ready-made itinerary map to plan your trip.
If you have more than 14 days, add time for Kinsale and the points of interest mentioned in our detailed day by day itineraries. Add an extra day to your most desired stopovers in case of rain to give you another chance at better weather for sightseeing.
We have developed a similar two-week itinerary to see the best places in the north.
Dublin is for decanting the good life — walking, shopping, eating, drinking — and learning. It offers a pleasant walk on cobblestone pedestrian streets in a very compact area.
No, the Temple Bar area does not refer to its current status as a pub district!
You may be forgiven for thinking the biggest contribution of the Norman conquest of Ireland are the now crumbling castles dotting the Emerald Isle. But the biggest impact of Norman rule was on English. As discussed in the Staying Trim in Ireland post, 45% of all English words have a French origin. Bar is derived from the 12th century French word barré meaning barrier.
The barrier protected the 17th century estate and gardens of Sir William Temple. The Temple family are said to descend from the Knight Templars, a powerful order during the Crusades. After they were suppressed by Pope Clement V and disbanded, many fled to Britain.
Note that Temple Bar in London UK was named after a gateway near Temple Church, which belonged to the Knight Templars!
William Temple was born in Britain. He came to Ireland as part of the subjugation of the Irish colony. He regarded the destruction of the Irish language and culture as a necessary prerequisite to defeating the native Irish way of life.
Temple worked for the University of Dublin, aka Trinity College. He also served as a member for Dublin University in the Irish House of Commons from 1613 until his death.
Note that elected representatives were always landowners of British origin. Irish Catholics were prohibited from owning land, voting or holding elected office under the Penal Laws.
Decanting Irish Myths
2. The Quay’s Bar
Some of the streets from the Temple Bar to the Ha’ Penny Bridge are cobblestone pedestrian ways. The buildings are covered in gaudy lights, bright colours, and pretty flowers. The bars are the most ornately decorated.
3. Oliver St John Gogarty Bar
While we on the subject of myth busting, Ireland’s patron saint, Patrick, was not Irish! At the age of 16, he sailed most likely from Wales and was captured by Irish pirates. He spent six years in captivity in Ireland.
The first St. Patrick’s Day parade was held in the United States, not in Ireland. It was hosted by the Charitable Irish Society of Boston in 1737. It was non-sectarian parade in support of all Irish immigrants.
4. Merchant’s Arch
Guinness is one of Ireland’s most famous exports, but it is actually owned by British beverage firm Diageo. Ireland’s oldest beer is not Guinness, it’s Smithwicks. Smithwicks Brewery was founded in Kilkenny in 1710. Guinness came about in 1759. Ireland ranks sixth worldwide in the average consumption of beer per person.
Baileys Irish Cream is a liqueur made from Irish whiskey, cream, cocoa extract and herbs. It was launched in Ireland in 1974 after three years of development. It is now the most popular liqueur in the world. Once again, it is actually owned by British company, Diageo.
5. Ha’ Penny Bridge
Ha’ Penny Bridge
Once upon a time, there were seven ferries to get people across the River Liffey dividing Dublin. They were in very bad condition. The operator, William Walsh, was told to either fix them or build a bridge. He built the Ha’ Penny Bridge in 1816 and was granted the right to extract a toll from anyone crossing it for 100 years! Sweet! The ha’penny charge was based on the cost of a ferry ride. The fee did increase over time to 1½ pence, but was dropped in 1919. More recently, in 2013 the council removed over 300 kg of locks from the bridge. I wonder if they will ever take off the locks left by departing university students on our “Bridge of Locks”.
On the north side of the river was Montgomery Street. It was once the largest red light district in all of Europe. Over 1600 prostitutes walked the streets of Dublin, loudly and proudly selling their services!
6. Daniel O’Connell Statue
O ‘Connells were once a wealthy Catholic family that had been dispossessed of its 320-acre (1.3 km²) estate. The family home (an OPW museum site) still exists in Derrynane next to a spectacular beach, which we visited in the Real Ring of Kerry.
6. Daniel O’Connell Statue
At the beginning of O’Connell Street is the Daniel O’Connell Monument (1882). The 3.7 m (12 ft) statue is so high up (12 m 40 ft) you need binoculars or a zoom lens to see O’Connell.
The Irish started to gain access to many middle-class professions from which they had been excluded. In 1798, Daniel O’Connell became a barrister. He strongly supported an emancipation campaign to give Catholics equal rights within the United Kingdom.
Many Irish Catholics fought to protect Ireland from Napoleon. This led to the British army giving freedom of worship to Catholic soldiers in 1811. Thanks to public opinion, aka the press, elected MPs changed their attitudes. O’Connell set up an association to fund pro-emancipation members of parliament (MPs) in the British House of Commons
The Irish Catholic contribution to the Napoleonic wars may have contributed to increased support. BTW, the same Duke of Wellington who defeated Napoleon and later became prime minister, was an Irish-born Protestant!
O’Connell denounced the corrupt 1815 Dublin City Council as a “beggarly corporation”. John D’Esterre, a member of city council and noted duellist, challenged him to a duel at Dublin Castle. D’Esterre was mortally wounded.
The Emancipation
After O’Connell won election, he was unable to take his seat as MPs still had to take the Oath of Supremacy; in other words, reject Catholicism. While they opposed Catholic participation in parliament, Prime Minister Wellington and Home Secretary Robert Peel saw that denying O’Connell his seat would cause outrage and could lead to another major uprising in Ireland, which was about 85% Catholic. Catholics were granted full rights with the Catholic Emancipation act in 1829. O’Connell was now an MP.
In 1841, Daniel O’Connell became the first Catholic Mayor of Dublin since the reign of Catholic King James II, who was repulsed at Derry and defeated at the Battle of the Boyne by William of Orange.
The Catholic emancipation campaign served as a precedent for the emancipation of British Jews (1858), eliminating the Oath of Allegiance to the true Christian Faith and allowing Jews to become MPs. Daniel O’Connell became friends with former slave Frederick Douglass, who campaigned for the abolition of slavery in the US.
Winged Victory
Winged Victory
The four winged women sitting around the base of the O’Connell statue represent fidelity, eloquence, courage and patriotism. There are bullet holes in two of the women, a legacy of 1916-1922 war of independence. No, the four women are not angels!
They are Classical Greek goddesses! Winged Victory is a common marble sculpture of Nike, the Greek goddess of strength, speed, and victory. It is called Winged Victory because the Roman name for Nike is Victoria.
Nike, Winged Victory, Ephesus
This sculpture is in Ephesus, the second largest city of the Roman Empire which played a major part in the New Testament. Why did all roads lead to Ephesus? Ephesus was the terminus of the Silk Trade Routes! Ephesus is now in Turkey.
Winged Victory conveys a sense of action and triumph. Symbols of Nike include golden sandals, wings, and a wreath, which you can see in her hair in the Dublin monument. Nike flew around battlefields rewarding the victors with glory and fame, symbolized by a wreath of laurel leaves (bay leaves).
So is this relevant today? Very. Wreaths were give to the victors in the Olympic Games. Roman Emperors used wreaths. Names stemming from Nike include Nicholas, Nicole, Nikita, Nikki, Veronica, and, of course, the sports wear giant, Nike.
7. William Smith O’Brien
7. William Smith O’Brien
O’Brien (1803-1864) was a leader of the unsuccessful rebellion of 1848. In fact, 1848 saw uprisings in France, Germany, Austria-Hungarian Empire, Italy, Denmark and Poland. These uprisings were liberal democratic movements to demand more participation in government and eliminate the monarchy. It was also the first stirring of socialism.
O’Brien’s white marble statue (1870) was the first monument erected in Dublin to commemorate an individual who had carried out armed resistance against British rule.
8. Sir John Grey
8. Sir John Grey
Gray (1815-75) was the owner of the Freeman’s Journal, a strongly nationalist newspaper. Public opinion was very important in changing Ireland. This white marble sculpture (1879) depicts Gray as a Victorian gentleman, complete with open coat and confident stance symbolized by one foot placed forward.
Nelson’s Pillar was located behind the Grey statue until it was destroyed by Irish Republicans in an explosion in 1966. The uninspiring Spire of Dublin was erected on the site of the Pillar in 2003.
9. General Post Office
9. General Post Office
The General Post Office (GPO) is an imposing neoclassical building with ornate interior as well. It is a Georgian building dating from 1818. The Greek hexastyle portico simply means it had six fluted Ionic columns. The frieze above the columns is highly decorated
Ireland is one of the few countries in the world, and the only country in the EU, that does not have postal codes (with the exception of Dublin).
The GPO is the site of many protests. During the Easter Rising of April 1916, the GPO served as the headquarters of the uprising’s leaders. Patrick Pearse read out the Proclamation of the Irish Republic from the GPO. But the Rising was brutally suppressed by the British and the building was destroyed by fire except for the granite facade. This led to the 1919-21 Anglo-Irish War, which saw numerous atrocities on both sides, by the Irish Republican Army (IRA) and by the British government. The Irish Republic became reality in 1922.
Ireland FAQ answers your questions such as when should I go, what is the best clothing, how much time do I need, how safe is Ireland, should I pay in Euros or my own currency, et al.
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Why Should You Do Dabbling with Dublin Walk
As they say in Rome, when in Dublin do as the Dubliners do. That means walk, shop, eat and drink. Dublin offers pleasant walks on pedestrian streets and a college campus in a very compact area. Dublin can be seen in 2 days but you will need more time to visit all the museums.
The route for this post can be seen in Dublin Map 1, The numbers on the map correspond to the numbers in this post.
Dabbling with History
Being in Europe, one is always amazed by watershed events that changed the course of history. How many descendants of Ireland and Britain realize that they could be speaking a Scandinavian language instead of English? The Viking influence on Irish history is often overlooked. For instance, the Vikings founded Dublin in 988 and ruled the kingdom of Dublin County until it was conquered by the Normans in 1170.
One hundred years earlier, the Norwegian King claimed the throne of England. He was defeated by the Saxons just before they were attacked and defeated by the Normans. William the Conqueror invaded Great Britain in 1066 and changed the course of history. But ironically the Norse won. Why? The terms Norman and Normandy are derived from Norsemen. The main differences were that these Norwegians were granted Normandy in return for protecting France from Viking attacks and they adopted French language and culture.
1. Christ Church Cathedral
Christ Church Cathedral is an Anglican medieval church. The original wood cathedral was built in 1028 by the Norse King of Dublin. The Viking settlement was located at nearby Wood Quay along the River Liffey just north of the church.
Christ Church Cathedral
The current cathedral dates from 1172. The Normans believed in using stone and redid many cathedrals. Norman architecture is a combination of Romanesque and Gothic. Romanesque style incorporates Roman classical forms with heavy use of semicircular arches framed by slender Roman columns with decorative geometric carvings in the arches.
Christ Church Cathedral, Dublin, Ireland
The cathedral was extensively renovated and rebuilt from 1871 to 1878 by George Street. The footbridge from the synod house on the left to the cathedral cost £230,000 in the 19th century or €26 million today!
Chapter House Foundations, Christ Church Cathedral
The foundation ruins in the foreground were the Chapter or Meeting House of the Augustinians between 1163 and 1537.
Homeless Jesus Statue, Christ Church Cathedral
I was taken aback by a cast bronze sculpture of a person hidden beneath blankets on a park bench. There was no sign or explanation. After some research I learned that Canadian sculptor Tim Schmalz designed it to get people to reflect on the plight of the homeless. In fact, the statue is titled Homeless Jesus — I had not noticed the holes in his feet.
2. Dublin Castle
Dublin Castle
Over 30,000 castles and ruins are sprinkled across the Emerald Island. Dublin Castle played a significant role in Irish history. It was the centre of British rule until the independence of Ireland in 1922. It served as the residence of the Viceroy of Ireland as well as the administrative centre of the colony of Ireland.
Dublin Castle, started in 1204 by King John of England, has a typical Norman courtyard design. The castle was built near the dark pool (“Dubh Linn”), which gave Dublin its name. The Record Tower (1228) above is the sole surviving tower of this medieval castle.
To its left is the Chapel Royal. It looks Gothic but it is not even medieval. It was completed in 1814! This magnificent Gothic Revival chapel wears a crown of pinnacles rising above Gothic arched windows. It was a place of worship solely for the vice-regal household.
Dublin Castle State Apartments
The State Apartments dating from the 17th and 18th century make this look more like a palace than a castle. There are many ornate rooms where the social life of the aristocracy took place.
Trinity College
Regent House, Trinity College
The archbishop of Dublin requested a royal charter from Queen Elizabeth I to create a university for scholars and clergy. Its’ purpose was to bolster the Protestant Reformation in Ireland. That is the reason it was supported by Queen Elizabeth I.
Trinity College, aka the University of Dublin, was founded by in 1592. Regent House above is the college administration and visitor reception area.
It was built far from the centre of Dublin on the location of one of the many monasteries that were shut down. Henry VIII enacted the Dissolution of the Monasteries 1536-1541 which closed down and sold the assets of the Catholic Church to fund Henry’s wars.
Trinity was created as a university solely for Protestant men. In fact, during Cromwell’s conquest in the 1650s, Catholics were actually banned from living within Dublin!! After seeing all the destruction and killing in Ireland caused by Cromwell, one can really hate his fascist mentality.
Trinity was modelled after the collegiate universities of Oxford and Cambridge, and has always been one of the top universities in the British Empire.
The College opened its doors to Catholics in 1793 and women in 1904. Catholics were prohibited from gaining positions of prestige such as scholar or professor. In 1873 all religious tests were abolished. However, the Catholic church banned Catholic attendance from 1871 until 1970.
3. Old Library
Old Library, Trinity College
Trinity College is most famous for its Old Library lined floor to ceiling with books. Trinity is a legal deposit library for Ireland and Great Britain; that is, it gets a copy of every book ever published. It currently contains over 6.2 million printed books. It also has significant quantities of manuscripts. They have many beautifully illustrated Christian texts besides the Book of Kells. Unfortunately the Book of Kells room was undergoing maintenance when we were there.
The Book of Kells (fee €11-14) is one of the great masterpieces of Irish Christian culture. During Oliver Cromwell’s invasion of Kells (near Trim) in 1654, the manuscript was sent to Dublin for safekeeping! It was donated to Trinity College in 1661.
There are several excellent web sites that describe the Book of Kells such as the article by M. Kearney below. As tourists we tend to look at how beautiful the image is, how colourful or how ornate. We may not know that these illuminations are done on vellum not paper. It is estimated that the skins of 185 calves were needed for this manuscript. The article below is a good example of the need to pay attention to details. Look at the figure on the upper right.
The Book of Kells, M. Kearney, BBC 2016-04-26
"The whole page only contains four words, In principio erat verbum: In the beginning was the Word. Then there is the figure of St John himself, with large thoughtful eyes, who is shown holding a book. But far less reputably to his right, there is a smaller figure who seems to be knocking back a goblet of wine, his eyes closed in a alcoholic stupor and totally oblivious of a gigantic monster looming above him."
One has to wonder if there was some symbolism for this depiction or was the monk inserting some humour. The Book of Kells is a beautifully illustrated set of four Gospels. Since most people then could not read, especially Latin, illustrations and frescoes were the principle means of teaching. But despite its renown, not much is known about its origins.
William Leckey Statue
William Leckey Statue, Trinity College
William Leckey was an Irish historian, essayist, and political theorist with Whig proclivities. His major work was an eight-volume History of England during the Eighteenth Century. The statue dates to 1910.
4. Campanile
Campanile, Trinity College
Campanile is an Italian architectural term for bell tower. The Campanile of Pisa, Florence and Venice are so famous you already know them. This campanile was donated by the Archbishop of Armagh, Lord John Beresford in 1853. He graduated from Oxford with a Master of Arts. He was married but joined the clergy in 1797. He was Chancellor of the Univ. of Dublin between 1851 and 1862.
A tour group hides from the rain under the Campanile while a student guide tells gossip about Trinity College. She mentioned that there was an old superstition that any student who passes beneath the campanile will fail their exams. As a result, some students never walk through the arches until they graduate Trinity College. On graduation day, a celebratory walk under the campanile is a rite of passage
The belfry is a cylindrical chamber encircled by Corinthian columns, between which are tall, round-arched tracery windows. Seated around the belfry are figures representing Divinity, Science, Medicine and Law. Clearly, those were considered the highest faculties in those days.
Language
But perhaps the most important faculty historically was English. The Irish have made an big impact on the English language. Some of the words they introduced include brogue, hooligan, slob and Tories.
A Dublin theatreproprietorRichard Daly made a bet that he could, within 48 hours, make anonsenseword known throughout the city, and that the public would supply a meaning for it! After a performance one evening, he gave his staff cards with the word written on them, and told them to write the word on walls around the city. The next day the strange word was the talk of the town and so the word quiz was invented.
The word boycott was named after Capt. Boycott, who is the villain in this story. He was the agent for an absentee English landlord, who refused to lower rents when there was a bad growing season. Capt. Boycott then started to evict tenants who could not pay. The town not only shunned him but refused to work for him. He had no one to perform the harvest. And so the word boycott was born.
5. Chapel
Chapel, Trinity College
The Chapel (1798) was designed by King George III’s architect, Sir William Chambers. The buildings on the central campus were imposing but austere.
Trinity College scholars are students who excel in a special set of examinations. Scholars are given free campus accommodation, free carvery dinner with a pint of Guinness each night, and a glass of brandy or a pint of Guinness – depending who you ask – during their exams.
6. Buttery Food Court
Speaking of food, around the corner is the student cafeteria where I had a very nice lunch and a superb Lavazza cappuccino while I waited for the rain to stop.
7. Sphere in a Sphere
Sphere in a Sphere Sculpture, Trinity College
The bronze Sphere Within Sphere (Sfera con sfera) is by Italian sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro, which has been much copied around the world, especially in the Cortile (courtyard) of the Vatican Museums.
8. Museum Building
Museum Building, Trinity College
The Museum Building is home to the Geology, Geography, and Engineering departments. It was my favourite architecture, but then I did work in Italy for four years. This Palazzo style building was completed in 1857 at a cost £28,790. The pedestrian bridge at Christ Church Cathedral cost ten times as much!
Grand Canal, Venice
Several web articles and even Trinity College say that the Museum Building was inspired by the “Byzantine” architecture of Venice. However, as you can see in the photo of the Grand Canal above, the Museum Building lacks the pointed arches of the Venetian style – which is not Byzantine but is called Saracenic-Gothic.
The Saracenic-Gothic style is unique to Venice, which was the most powerful city in Western Europe during the Gothic Era until the Renaissance. The Venetians were a naval power and controlled the Adriatic and eastern Mediterranean. They were the only nation that could transport the Crusaders to the Holy Land to fight the Saracens. They made a fortune on their ferry service!
If you look carefully, the Venetian arches are a more upward pointed than the Gothic. That is the Saracenic or Islamic influence in their architecture.
BTW, “Byzantine Empire” is bad 16th century history invented by a German historian: it was called the Roman Empire by the people of that time. Their architecture style is classical Roman. In 330 AD, Constantine moved the capital of the Roman Empire to Constantinople — it still was the Roman Empire, even when Rome the city fell.
Museum Building, Trinity College
The Museum Building is primarily Romanesque in style as shown by its triple semi-circular arches, and highly decorated pilaster capitals.
Literature
Graduates Memorial Building, Trinity College
Standing in front of the Victorian Graduates Memorial Building, it is time to pay homage to some of the most important graduates and authors, many of whom lived in Dublin — Oscar Wilde, George Bernard Shaw, Samuel Beckett, James Joyce, Jonathan Swift, William Butler Yeats and Bram Stoker.
All these names are familiar but who is Bram Stoker? He is author of the extremely famous 1897 story about a vampire! Count Dracula was modelled on his friend, the actor Sir Henry Irving. I wonder what Henry thought about that? One inspiration for his story was the Irish legend of Abhartach, an evil chieftain who rose from his grave every night to drink the blood of his subjects.
Bram lived at 30 Kildare Street right near Trinity College, where he graduated. He worked at Dublin Castle as a civil servant.
Notice that these individuals were literary giants in English not Irish (Gaelic). Thanks to 750 years of occupation by the British, very few people speak Irish today. In fact, Polish is the second most spoken language on the Emerald Island!
Georgian Dublin
The Irish Parliament was abolished in 1801, when Ireland becoming a part of the new United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland under the Act of Union.
The Georgian Period 1714-1830 — named for the four consecutive King George’s — is synonymous with a neoclassical art and architecture style. Dublin became an elegant capital of British Ireland and the second most important city of the United Kingdom.
9. Merrion Square
Merrion-Square
When Merrion Square was begun in 1762, this area was farmland on the outskirts of Dublin. Most tourists will focus on the green space, the statues, or the grass-covered hump at the corner of Fitzwilliam Street Lower, an entrance to a World War II air raid shelter.
You will be forgiven if you hardly notice the buildings lining the squares of southern Dublin. But these 250 year-old buildings are still in pristine shape. That is a testament to how well built they were.
The buildings are understated and characterized by proportion, balance, and symmetry. I noticed they all seem to have an odd number of window bays with the door in the centre and one window bay above it. The regularity of house fronts along a street was a desirable feature of Georgian town planning. In fact, a standard mathematical ratio was used to determine the height of a window based on its width.
The Georgian style is also based on the classical forms of the Italian Renaissance period. It was invented by famous English architects like Christopher Wren, designer of St Paul’s Cathedral and John Nash, designer of Buckingham Palace.
79 Merrion Square
Now it is time to look at the details to see what makes Georgian architecture interesting. Closely examine the transom window or fanlight over the colourful front doors. A transom is a horizontal beam atop a door. The fanlight could be opened to provide cross-ventilation while maintaining security in the pre-air conditioning era. The phrase “over the transom” refers to works submitted for publication without being solicited. The manuscripts would be thrown through the transom window.
Other neoclassical features are the carved pediments, Ionic pilasters, and cornice (horizontal decorative molding at the top of a building or door) with dentils (literally teeth).
The Georgian buildings in Canada and the United States have a similar design to those in the UK due to the use of pattern books drawn up by professional architects.
58 Merrion Square
Back in 18th century, all the bourgeoisie moved to the fashionable Merrion Square area. Oscar Wilde lived at #1 as a child, Daniel O’Connell (see next post on Dublin) at #58 above, and W. B. Yeats at #82.
54 Merrion Square
Today, most of the houses are commercial; for instance, #54 is the Fulbright (Scholar) Commission.
Ireland FAQ answers your questions such as when should I go, what is the best clothing, how much time do I need, how safe is Ireland, should I pay in Euros or my own currency, et al.
Homicide and robbery rate are more relevant to citizens living in a country. Generally, these rates do not affect tourists. Instead, the table below ranks countries by a more generic Safety Index as a measure of safety when travelling.
As you can see below, Canada, Europe, and East Asian countries are generally very safe. By contrast, the four most popular Caribbean travel destinations are also the least safe.
Country
Travel Safe Safety Index
TS Rank
Numbeo Safety Index
New Zealand
90
7
56.7
Canada
88
13
57.1
Ireland
83
23
54.5
Japan
83
23
77.9
South Korea
82
29
73.5
Italy
77
50
54.8
United Kingdom
77
50
53.5
Saint Lucia
70
67
N/A
United States
68
82
51.8
Mexico
65
88
46.3
Costa Rica
64
90
46.1
France
64
90
47.6
Jamaica
55
102
32.2
Dominican Republic
54
106
39.1
Bahamas
49
123
37.5
Thailand
48
131
60.7
India
47
55.7
Puerto Rico
34
176
37.8
Highest Safety Index = best country: 0-33 = dangerous; 33-66 = somewhat dangerous/safe; 66-100 = safest countries Rank 1 = best country; Rank = 129 = worst country
According to Numbeo, Thailand is very safe. What does not make sense is that the Travel Safe rating for Thailand is poor. Italy does have a high pickpocket risk, which is not shown here. You need to use a money belt for your passport, credit cards and excess cash. You should also be vigilant about the people around you.
Our recommendations are not influenced by affiliate links – we have none. Our content and advice is derived from our personal expertise, experience, and knowledge based on living in Europe for seven years and studying its art and architecture. All the places recommended in this post are pinned on our Ireland’s Best Sights Map. The place names are appended with the Google Maps Rating (G0 to G5).
How Should You Plan the Best Ireland Itinerary
Some of you have limited time or budget and are looking for a one week or ten-day trip. But where should you go with so many choices? How should you decide which places to include? Out of all these gems, how do you find Quintessential Ireland?
The purpose of this tool is to help you plan your Best of Ireland trip, but this approach applies to anywhere you travel. First of all, do not be swayed by name recognition or one person saying you must go to Cork. Just because you have heard of Cork, Galway or Dublin does not mean those are the must-see places. In fact, do not start by identifying the places where you will sleep over. The towns are not what is special about Ireland and will not let you experience Quintessential Ireland.
In Italy, Spain, and Britain — first timers should start with the famous cities because they are historically and culturally the most significant sights. But in Ireland you should focus on natural sights and scenery that comprise Quintessential Ireland.
Planning Process
Golden Crescent Beaches
How do you plan your itinerary? Here are the steps you could follow:
1. Determine the characteristics that make the country you plan to visit special. For example, check out the characteristics we believe make Quintessential Ireland.
2. Determine your own interests and the focus of your trip. For instance, we live 1000 km from the ocean so enjoying coastal roads and scenery is special to us.
3. Find places that match your interests. Make lists of the places that most people think are the best and track how many mentions are given to each. We developed our original list from Facebook posts, Lonely Planet’s Top Experiences and Sights web page, other in-depth blog sites — AND confirmed these using the Google Map ratings for these sights. Any place over 4.0 is very good; any place over 4.5 is excellent. This applies to restaurants and hotels as well as sites.
Giant’s Causeway Trail
Unfortunately many visitors and locals alike are almost dogmatic about promoting the area they come from or have visited as the Best of Ireland. But if you haven’t seen all the places how do you know how one place compares to another? We are trying to bridge that gap for you.
4. View our list of the top places below, which was based on our 5Σ rating system. Click the link to see the details and photos so you can see for yourself what each day trip has to offer.
5. Do not worry about seeing everything. You cannot, so don’t even try. On the other hand, wherever you go from the selection below, you will enjoy the Best of Ireland.
Where Should We Go?
Sigma is our rating system. We have rated nine of our day trips at the maximum 5Σ. These are the places that should be the foundation of your trip.
The location of each day trip is shown on the Ireland Top Sights Map. We won’t state that there is ONE best route because we all have different interests and we don’t want everyone going to the same places. Make your own combination of the places below and you will have a great experience in Ireland.
5Σ trip from Ramelton, Letterkenny, Derry or Ballintoy
Dunluce Castle, Antrim
Even with a 36-day road trip, we did not see everything. So we have not rated the rest of the Antrim Coast, Belfast and Carrickfergus Castle — places we planned to go but ran out of time. They are shown on the Ireland Top Sights Map.
Logistics
If you only have a week, can you see all of these best sights? The answer is no. Can you do 4 places? Four changes of location requires at least a half day each for meal time, check out time and travel time plus one day at the end to drive to a place near an airport. In other words, 4 locations means 3 travel days and 4 sightseeing days.
Can you do all the top 9 sights in 14 days? You would have to skip Dublin and Belfast. It would require 6 travel days leaving 8 sightseeing days for 9 sights. Again the answer is no.
The road trips above actually do take one full day. So you have to make a choice here. Do you want to spend your time driving continuously with minimal stopping? Or do you want to allow two nights for each stopover location to allow sufficient time to hike, beach-comb, photograph and explore each region more thoroughly?
Also note that many of these places will not be on the way to your next destination, so you have to stay at a nearby town to allow a full day to explore. Places that can be done on the way to the next location include Rock of Cashel, Healy Pass, Killarney NP, and Cliffs of Moher. But you would have to get there early and limit your time sightseeing.
Do not underestimate the force of travel logistics. Forget the estimates provided by Google Maps. You cannot expect to travel faster than 70 km per hour except on the motorways.
Departure Sleepover
Trim Castle
Trim is an interesting alternative to Dublin for your final night(s). The town is as close to the airport as Dublin (40 minutes) but without the traffic. Plus, you can visit the Norman-era Trim Castle or even Neolithic Newgrange. As an extra, you can stay in a less expensive B&B and enjoy a quieter town than Dublin.
Our recommendations are not influenced by affiliate links – we have none. Our content and advice is derived from our personal expertise, experience, and knowledge based on living in Europe for seven years and studying its art and architecture.
What are your Questions about Ireland?
When should I go?
Dunluce Castle, Ambling the Antrim Coast, Ireland North Itinerary
Please avoid July and August when there are too many tourists. Moreover, tourists go to the same museums, archaeological and other tourist sites. If you do go in the summer, avoid the most touristy sites between 10:00 and 15:30 hours. Better yet go around supper time.
What is the best season for travel?
Cliffs of Moher Up Close, Ireland South Itinerary
It has been downright hot in July and August the last two years (climate change?) and there generally is no air conditioning. The best times are spring and fall though April is still a bit chilly. Otherwise, Ireland is perpetual spring so you need to dress in layers and be prepared for rain.
What is the best clothing?
The best travel clothing includes Gortex (waterproof) hiking shoes (not the heavier boots) about $160-220; breathable Gortex rain shell ca. $240, pricy but the least bulk: there are cheaper alternatives; and Patagonia fleece sweater $126-170, the best warmth. All these items are lightweight and geared to hiking; in effect, that is what you are doing as a traveller.
Where should I go? What are the must-sees?
If you are a first-time visitor, first check out what elements of Quintessential Ireland interest you. Then check out which pre-designed itineraries best fit your interests via the Ireland Portal.
How much time do I need for Ireland?
Giant’s Causeway Trail, Ireland North Itinerary
To see Ireland thoroughly and not feel rushed, you need one week per geographic region. If you only have a week, try to use statutory holidays to extend that to ten days. Otherwise, you will get tired out and may not even remember the places in your photographs when you get home. This rule of thumb applies to all of Europe.
Can I see everything in a week?
The short answer is no! Why can’t I just drive to a new town every day? Because it takes 1/2 to one day to drive to the next location. You will not have enough time to walk, admire, learn or enjoy each place. And you will need a vacation from the vacation.
Kool Kinsale, Ireland East Itinerary
Many people just plan on going to towns whose names they have heard. With the exception of a few colourful fishing towns like Dazzling Dingle and Kool Kinsale, towns are not what is special about Ireland. When people say, oh you have to go to Galway, it is not the city of Galway that is incredible. It is the fact that there are four day trips that you can do from that base.
It is impossible to see all the craggy coastlines and spectacular scenic areas. However, allowing at least two weeks will get the most out of your travel (cost) investment.
What are the Hidden Gems of Ireland?
In our opinion, a hidden gem is not a place with no people. It has to have something exceptional or special. If you find the number of tourists oppressive then there are a couple of things you can do. The first is to not travel in the summer high season. The second is to seek out less visited places. Here is our list:
Ireland is very safe. In fact, most of Europe has a much lower violent crime rate than the United States, which is the 14th worst country in the world. Ireland has the least violent crime as well as infrequent robbery rate, The US is the 18th worst country for robbery.
Number of recorded robberies per 100,000 population
How much cash should you take to Ireland?
Ireland is a modern economy. You can use credit cards almost everywhere and ATM machines when you need cash. There were only a couple of B&Bs that insisted on cash payment.
Should I pay in Euros or my own currency?
The usual rule of thumb is always pay for expenses in the local currency. Stores/hotels can use any exchange rate they want. Pay for your air fare and rental car at home in your own currency so the rate is secure and there is no foreign exchange transaction fee. Don’t worry about transaction fees because banks can hide fees or just use a poorer exchange rate. If you want to budget then economize on hotels and food.
Should I get a SIM Card?
That’s a personal decision. If you plan on using the phone then it makes sense. If your reason is to search for information then use free wi-fi when you can get it (hotel, café). If your main reason is to use maps and get directions, then download the free maps.me app and a map of the country. It works offline without connectivity. This is what we used on our last trip.
What apps are useful for travel?
Mobile apps that we use for travel include:
XE for exchange rates,
Units Plus to convert Metric to English measurement systems,
Google Maps for planning and fancier versions of my
Maps.me for off-line maps and directions,
Photoshop Express to edit cell phone photos.
I use desktop Photoshop for proper editing at home. We also have Agoda and Trip Advisor but we don’t use them during our already planned trip and also we trust the Google Map ratings more.
Should I rent a car? Take a Taxi?
Dublin Castle, Dabbling with Dublin
Within Dublin, no! Nor do you need to take a taxi as the public transit system is very good.
It is not as big a problem driving in Dublin as many people including Rick Steves make out.
Dublin is tame compared to Rome where we lived for four years. Try driving in Istanbul or Bangkok! Irish drivers are generally relaxed and polite. This does not mean I recommend driving — Traffic in Dublin is very bad and slow, parking is very expensive, and you need a navigator. the parking is very expensive but it is available. If you rent a car at Dublin Airport you will have to drive through Dublin to get to your hotel. Relax, you are more likely to get lost than to have an accident.
Dublin is tame compared to Rome where we lived for four years. Try driving in Istanbul or Bangkok! The drivers are generally relaxed and polite. This does not mean I recommend driving — the parking is very expensive but it is available.
Outside Dublin you will need a rental car or a tour to see the quintessential sights. Even cities like Galway were easy to drive. Driving on the left is not a real problem. However, the narrow country roads take getting used to. Yes, your small car does fit in the lane but there are no shoulders. Drive slowly — you are on holiday and should not be rushing to the next place.
Our recommendations are not influenced by affiliate links – we have none. Our itineraries, photos, and advice are based having lived in Europe for seven years. We are avid hikers, nature lovers, culture vultures, and photographers. Ireland is one of our favourite destinations.
Ireland Itineraries
We have created five regional itineraries and maps for you: East, South, West, North, and Dublin. Each regional itinerary takes about one week to do. Click on each region heading next to a photo below to find out the exciting things to do and see in that region.
How do I choose what is unique to Ireland?
First you need to read about the features that will give you a Quintessential Ireland experience. Second you need to define your main interests.
How do I choose where to go in Ireland?
Third you need to determine the length of your trip. Then chose one or more of the following itineraries that best matches your interests and your timeframe.
The Ireland East Itinerary includes lush Powerscourt Gardens, intact Killarney Castle, ancient Glendalough and Rock of Cashel monasteries, and colourful Kinsale fishing village (OK it’s a town now). The route is mainly inland rather than coastal, more history than scenery.
The Ireland South Itinerary is a must see for Quintessential Ireland — dramatic Healy Pass, the “Real” Ring of Kerry, tourist Krazy Killarney, Victorian Garinish Gardens, and the must-see Dingle to Slea Head Drive with the best drop dead coastal views.
The Ireland West Itinerary is another must see for Quintessential Ireland — dramatic Cliffs of Moher; other-worldly Burren limestone landscapes; spectacular back-to-back crescent Gurteen Bay beaches; genial Galway; elegant Kylemore mansion and gardens; rhododendron-lined Connemara roads and mountains, Killary Fjord, Doo Lough Valley, spectacular Keem Beach and rugged coastline of Achill Island.
The Ireland North Itinerary covers the area between less-touristed Sligo in the Republic of Ireland to ultra-touristy Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland. It is a worthwhile alternative to Ireland South — it offers Portacloy Beach, peat farms, Neolithic Ceide cliffs, walled city of Derry, Horn Head hikes, turquoise beaches, some of the best castle ruins at Dunluce, view-encrusted Giant’s Causeway coastal hike, the Norman era Trim Castle, and ancient Neolithic Newgrange burial mound older than the Pyramids.
If this is your first trip, we would say that the South and West are the classic itineraries to see Quintessential Ireland. On the other hand, the North brings you to many exciting sights as well. If you are keen on seeing Game of Thrones sites and Belfast then stay in the North to maximize your fun and minimize your driving.
Our recommendations are not influenced by affiliate links – we have none. Our content and advice is derived from our personal expertise, experience, and knowledge based on living in Europe for seven years and studying its art, architecture and culture.
Why Should You See Ireland East
The Ireland East Itinerary includes lush gardens, intact castles, ancient monasteries and colourful fishing villages. It is mainly inland rather than coastal, more history than scenery. This route is covered in 7 posts and needs 8 days and is ideal for short trips.
The 1Σ to 5Σ Sigma score is our Ireland Itinerary Ratings to indicate how we would rank each place. Please add comments or questions about any place and press the Like button at the bottom of each post!
a beautiful garden, especially in May with the scarlet rhododendrons blooming. It comes with Italianate pebble mosaics and Japanese Gardens The separate but nearby Powerscourt Waterfall is worth a visit.
explores cathedrals, Tudor-era streets and a castle masterpiece. It does not have a medieval atmosphere. The Kilkenny Castle comes with excellent guided tour included in the OPW fee. The Seafood Chowder across the street is to die for.
an archaeological masterpiece. It comes with excellent guided tour included in the OPW fee. Greats views from the highway and the Hore Abbey ruins, which are worth a look.
If you have more than a week, then combine this tour with places we did not have time for. These can be found on the map; such as Inistioge Bridge, Glen of Aherlow, Cork’s English Market, and Waterford to name a few.
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